houli
Well-known member
What connection do you recommend here?
THanks.
THanks.
Knot Question: 30# GSP backing to fly line
- Thread starter houli
- Start date
MoscaPescador
Well-known member
Loop to loop.
wannafish
Well-known member
I use an Albright Knot: Albright Knot | How to tie the Albright Knot | Fishing Knots
FlyFlinger2421
Well-known member
I weld a loop in my fly line, then either use a bimini knot or better still, use a double catch splice to form a big loop in my backing.
chuck s
Well-known member
Even using a locked 30 turn Bimini Loop in the backing, where you can just approach 100% backing knot strength, you will find that on many saltwater outfits that's not quite enough with 30 lb test backing 
as most manufacturer's saltwater lines have a core strength about the same if not higher. Your backing and more importantly your backing to fly line knot should always be substantially higher than your fly line core strength. :shades: That 30 lb GSP might be just barely OK on some 6 and 7 weight outfits, which will have a core strength of 20-25 lbs, but on anything higher such as eight weight lines and above, it will be lacking. Going to at least 45 lb test or better yet 50 lb test:thumbsupu alleviates the problems while solving two other problems which are, the backing cutting into and binding on itself, and cutting your fingers when you touch it while a big fish has it stretched tight and running.
as most manufacturer's saltwater lines have a core strength about the same if not higher. Your backing and more importantly your backing to fly line knot should always be substantially higher than your fly line core strength. :shades: That 30 lb GSP might be just barely OK on some 6 and 7 weight outfits, which will have a core strength of 20-25 lbs, but on anything higher such as eight weight lines and above, it will be lacking. Going to at least 45 lb test or better yet 50 lb test:thumbsupu alleviates the problems while solving two other problems which are, the backing cutting into and binding on itself, and cutting your fingers when you touch it while a big fish has it stretched tight and running.
houli
Well-known member
This is a 7 wt setup ..... If I go loop to loop what loop do you tie in the fly line (and size)? Sounds like Bimini twist is way to go in backing.
Thanks.
Thanks.
BigCliff
Well-known member
This.
And the spider hitch works great for it-
Knots - How to tie the Spider Hitch
(I think the 15 wraps they suggest for GSP is excessive, 8-10 should be plenty)
caseywise
Well-known member
i use a loop to loop or nail knot with zap a gap applied.
loop to loop seems to be very strong, just, as previously mentioned, remember to make the loop big enough to pass the fly line spool through.
casey
loop to loop seems to be very strong, just, as previously mentioned, remember to make the loop big enough to pass the fly line spool through.
casey
houli
Well-known member
Just tied Bimini twist in backing .... What loop in fly line? spider hitch? Other?
MoscaPescador
Well-known member
Whip finish loop
Braided loop
houli
Well-known member
Thanks for the input .... she came out nice ... let's hope she holds!
BigCliff
Well-known member
To add a loop to the back of a fly line, I double it over and do two nail knots with 12lb mono. The mono compresses the fly line enough to where there's basically nothing bulging out at all.
Here's what it looks like when coated with Pliobond-
Nowadays, I'd recommend using a thin coat of Loon's UV knot sense instead.
Here's what it looks like when coated with Pliobond-
Nowadays, I'd recommend using a thin coat of Loon's UV knot sense instead.
chuck s
Well-known member
When tying the Bimini in GSP, it takes a lot of twist to offset the slickness. I tie a large loop Bimini with somewhere betwen 20 and 30 twists but then double that and make a slightly smaller loop of doubled line and do that with a six turn Surgeons Loop Knot. (yes 6 times through) It will look like a nail knot when you've finished and will keep your Bimini from slipping. It's necessary from another standpoint also as a sincle loop Bimini tied with GSP especialy in the lighter lb tests such as 30-50 lb will cut right through your fly line loop at times. Bill Nash a knot guru found that 30 some twists slowed down that slippage a lot but some were even going as high as a 100 twist Bimini. It's much easier to stick to the 30 and then lock it with that multiple Surgeons Loop knot.
houli
Well-known member
Found this connection on a post a while back
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/DickM/Bimini-To-Fly-Line-Loop.jpg
Ended up doing a 50 turn bimini twist in the backing and a whipped loop in the fly line and connected using the above loop to loop.
Seems like it came out nice ...... lets hope a fish never swims away trailing 90 ft of SA Mastery .....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/DickM/Bimini-To-Fly-Line-Loop.jpg
Ended up doing a 50 turn bimini twist in the backing and a whipped loop in the fly line and connected using the above loop to loop.
Seems like it came out nice ...... lets hope a fish never swims away trailing 90 ft of SA Mastery .....
wjc
Well-known member
Couple of very good posts by Chuck S. As he said, hook and wire sizes are everything except standardized. The old salt water good for everything hook, the Mustad 3407 has a huge wire size jump from a 5/0 to a 6/0 for instance, but the 5/0 can be bent with pliers to form a shorter shank hook with a gap considerably wider than an Owner SW 7/0.
His recommendation for a doubled loop in solid spectra is also a good one, but don't expect a 100% connection with it (or any thing really). It is important to make the bimini loop huge so that you can then form a generous double loop with the 6 turn surgeons. You can also run the loop through a 5" length of trolling braid before tying the surgeons loop then center it after the the double loop is formed and whip the ends to hold it in place. This will be added cushion to help prevent cutting into the line loop. It will also make the double figure 8 with half twist between easier to undo without fraying the spectra.
I also always make my fly line loop bigger than those factory welded ones as well - it makes it much easier to change out lines and does not increase the diameter going through the guides.
When tying that backing bimini, if you sit down and step inside the center of the loop with both feet, and run the loop around the outsides of your thighs (long pants suggested) , you can then spread your knees to run the tag back down over the first twists. That will also keep the loop open for a couple half hitches before proceeding to the Huffnagel or that other one.
PS: Edit I would loop your backing loop to a loop of 60 lb. test that is tied to a bucket of water weighing 10 lbs and slowly lift it up. Then keep adding water till it breaks. That will give you an idea of how much it takes to break it. You can do the same and yank on it with a lighter weight attached as well.
His recommendation for a doubled loop in solid spectra is also a good one, but don't expect a 100% connection with it (or any thing really). It is important to make the bimini loop huge so that you can then form a generous double loop with the 6 turn surgeons. You can also run the loop through a 5" length of trolling braid before tying the surgeons loop then center it after the the double loop is formed and whip the ends to hold it in place. This will be added cushion to help prevent cutting into the line loop. It will also make the double figure 8 with half twist between easier to undo without fraying the spectra.
I also always make my fly line loop bigger than those factory welded ones as well - it makes it much easier to change out lines and does not increase the diameter going through the guides.
When tying that backing bimini, if you sit down and step inside the center of the loop with both feet, and run the loop around the outsides of your thighs (long pants suggested) , you can then spread your knees to run the tag back down over the first twists. That will also keep the loop open for a couple half hitches before proceeding to the Huffnagel or that other one.
PS: Edit I would loop your backing loop to a loop of 60 lb. test that is tied to a bucket of water weighing 10 lbs and slowly lift it up. Then keep adding water till it breaks. That will give you an idea of how much it takes to break it. You can do the same and yank on it with a lighter weight attached as well.
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