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  1. Default heating shrink on cortland leader loops

    I have a few older reels with line that isnon looped ends and have been using the cortland slip on leader loops and am not having good luck heating and shrinking the shrink cover, i have only used a lighter and that at best is sketchy. i either get lucky and it holds or i burn the loop or line and it doesnt shrink enough.



  2. #2

    Default Re: heating shrink on cortland leader loops

    I have the same problems, but make sure you keep the flame a little farther away let it heat slow. Or just like I did on my sink tips tie a nail knot around the nylon loop with 8lb leader and glue the knot.

  3. #3

    Default Re: heating shrink on cortland leader loops

    Try using the heat off of an incandescent light bulb.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Northern California
    Blog Entries

    Default Re: heating shrink on cortland leader loops

    Don't even bother with the shrink tubing. Secure the end with a nail knot made of 8 to 15 pound test monofilament line. Trim off any excess braided loop material. Then coat it with Pliobond cement.

    Some people will UV activated cement like Loon UV Knot Sense or Rio UV Knot Sealer. Both work, but they don't flex like Pliobond.


  5. #5

    Default Re: heating shrink on cortland leader loops

    i use a lighter, but i just take my time, keep my distance. works well if you can loop the loop over something to keep your fingers from burning.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Monroe, Michigan

    Default I have used....

    A light bulb when I had to use one of those, takes a while, but it held well for me.


  7. #7


    I drop a little knot sense on the main line on it as I pull it over, and I use a blow dryer on high. It does a great job of shrinking the tube evenly across the line.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Wasilla / Skwentna, Alaska
    Blog Entries


    I used to use a lit cigar. Still you must have a deft hand or a burn will result. Back in the late eighties / early nineties I had a salmon strip one of them ( Cortland loop) off my line. I went to the nail knot that day and have never looked back. On my light dry fly lines I simply attach a permanent butt of either .021 or .019 and attach the rest of the leader to it. For heavier lines I use a butt of Amnesia in chartreuse and tie a perfection loop in it for attaching the leader. The Amnesia acts as a sight indicator and a depth gauge when drifting and swinging wet flies to fish.

    Hope that all resonates to some extent,

    Last edited by Ard; 08-01-2009 at 12:06 PM. Reason: spelling

    Anywhere can be the land of great expectations, broken dreams, or paradise found, it's all up to you.

    Life On The Line - Alaska Fishing with Ard
    Ard's Forum blog, Alaska Outdoors

  9. #9

    Default Re: heating shrink on cortland leader loops

    Mos is right - toss those heat shrink tubes in the trash. Too much risk of damaging the line inside in my opinion. I take out my tying bobbin, put the end of the thread under my thumb while holding the junction between the fly line and the loop connector, grab the other side with my other hand, and wobble the line to get the bobbin to rotate around the line, wrapping the junction in thread.

    If you cut about a 6 inch piece of thread first, and form it into a loop, you can stick in in there, wrap it 15 or so times, cut the thread at the bobbin, then pull the tag end under those wraps to secure it.

    I do that at the join, at the end of the fly line, and maybe once in the middle. Coat with rubber cement or Sally Hansen's.

  10. #10

    Default Re: heating shrink on cortland leader loops

    Ditch the braided loops except as backup. I typically use 20lb for 5-6wt. I basically take some flouro leader material, matching flouro line with about the same stiffness as my fly line. Don't go too heavy.

    Oddly Enough, I use the spare shrink tube from a pack of Cortland Braided Loops in lieu of a nail when tying my nail knots for a looped butt section. I works pretty slick. This lets me wrap the twists tighter because the tube actually will pinch down. Then back them off just enough to sneak the tag end down the tube. By doing this, I don't have nearly as much tightening to cinch the knot.

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