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Thread: Replacing the welded loop

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Northern WI
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    Default Replacing the welded loop

    Well, today while out fishing I noticed a large gash in my 5wt Sharkskins line an inch above where the welded loop is. I'd just as soon replace it with another loop, but would like to hear your thoughts on the best way to replace it. I know they market those braided loop ends, but I am skeptical at best with those. I could just as easily nail knot the thing and be done, but I'd like to avoid cutting into the line for leader replacements.




    Also, I thought someone posted a video a while back of how to do this but cannot for the life of me find it on the site. Anyone have a video?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    I nail knot a section of mono (heavier than I use for the leader) to the end of the fly line and tie a loop in the mono. I try to keep the distance between the nail knot and loop pretty small. I also use aquaseal on the knot to give it some extra toughness and keep water from wicking up the fly line. I'm not sure if the latter is a valid concern or not, but I like to seal it. Not fancy but works fine.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    I have used the technique in the following video with success...

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wHGN1sYYKI]Fly Line Setup with No Knots! - YouTube[/ame]

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  5. #4
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    I like the braided loops because hard mono tends to get curls and kinks. I think they transfer the power of the cast to the leader more smoothly. I have never had one break, but I once had a braided loop slip off the end of the fly line. Since then I've been putting a drop of Pliobond under the little plastic sleeve at the end of the braided section, and another at the tip of the flyline, and have had no problems. The Pliobond cements the line to the braid without being so stiff as to cause a hinge, and seals the flyline core against wicking up water.

    Another old technique that has fallen out of fashion lately, but still works perfectly well, is to use those little plastic line-to-leader connectors. Slip the flyline through and tie an overhand knot in the tip of it, then slip the leader butt through and tie an overhand knot in the tip of it, clip the tag ends, and you're fishing! http://www.basspro.com/Fly-Line-to-L...ct/2460/108038

    ---------- Post added at 07:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 AM ----------

    PS: Whatever technique you use, I would NOT recommend using CA-type adhesives like Zap-a-Gap or Crazy Glue. Because they dry very hard and stiff, they make the line hinge. Pretty soon the flyline coating cracks at the hinge and you have to replace your loop all over again. I had to learn this the hard way before I figured out that using Pliobond (or similar flexible adhesive products) avoids this problem.

  6. #5

    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    For a while I was welding them with a heat gun but it was frustrating for me and took a lot of trial and a lot more error and I still wasn't getting the results I wanted.

    Past few goes I've folded about an inch and a half of the line over and secured it with two nail knots and some aquaseal. It's not the prettiest method and I don't know how it would handle a monster steelhead run but it's working for now.

    Before summer steelhead I will look more into braided loops. If you have access to the Skagitmaster DVD Ed Ward does a pretty good demonstration.
    -Carl

    Steelheader's Anonymous.

  7. #6
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    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    For now, I'm just sticking with some GSP wrapped over the line and some Hard as Nails to secure the loop. I'll be interested to see some other methods however. Might go through some trial and error with some of the suggestions already given though just to see how I like them.

  8. #7
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    Quote Originally Posted by williamhj View Post
    I nail knot a section of mono (heavier than I use for the leader) to the end of the fly line and tie a loop in the mono. I try to keep the distance between the nail knot and loop pretty small. I also use aquaseal on the knot to give it some extra toughness and keep water from wicking up the fly line. I'm not sure if the latter is a valid concern or not, but I like to seal it. Not fancy but works fine.
    +1

    I actually like this method a lot and use about 16" of a heavy butt section, Maxima works great. You just want to find the size that is close to your fly line size - obviously a little smaller. If you use standard tapered leaders, the section of Maxima will most likely be stiffer that the butt of the leader and help transfer the power from your line into your leader.

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  10. #8

    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    There is a comprehensive thread on "welded loops" lower down in this same forum.

  11. #9

    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    I'm in the "nail knot a section of mono" boat.


    One piece of advise I can give you is once you cut the welded loop off the end of your line, make sure you seal the tip. Water can get into the core and cause your floating line to sink. Use something like loons UV to make a waterproof seal. Some superglues and epoxies are water based and will eventually break down after use.

  12. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Default Re: Replacing the welded loop

    If it's a floating line... and I use this for lines that start to sink as well.. I attach a length of Orvis HY-Flote 40 lb test- nail knot and KnotSense it- with a perfection loop tip. The leader material has a hollow core which helps float the tip.

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