Cracked welded loop
- Thread starter hcampbell
- Start date
Rip Tide
Well-known member
You'd have to cut off at least 8" to change the way it casts.... and you may like it better that way.
kglissmeyer1
Well-known member
I agree with Rip Tide. Just make sure to seal the end of the fly line after cutting the loop off (Super Glue or some such after tying leader to fly line).
kelly.
milt spawn
Well-known member
there are a couple of alternatives, you can buy loops that heat shrink onto the end, or you can splice a leader on. the loops are available from cortland and i think rio. dave whitlock came up with system of splicing in leaders using a needle, pin vise, and zap-a-gap glue. it makes an almost seamless transition from line to leader. i have done this many times and only once has one broken and that was from a tree limb, not a fish. i have even done it whislt bobbing around in float tube. milt.
The shrink wrap on the pre formed loops seals the line correct? thats a good alternative because i still want to keep the quickness of leader changes. I was thinking of just tying on some 15 or 20 lb test and then tying a loop in the end of that for leader attachment.
bigredfly
Active member
Instead of doing the piece of mono on the end, theres a good thread about putting a loop in the fly line yourself. Its not to difficult if you have the material and tools and time. Took me a couple tries but its solid. Theres the Thread link http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/general-discussion/11904-making-loop-your-fly-line.html
-Ben
-Ben
patyer
Active member
I recently had the welded loop break on my SA line and I did that. Has held solid this entire season.
mudbug
Well-known member
Why not just use Pliobond or Loon UV wader repair glue to patch the crack in the existing loop?
mudbug
Well-known member
I'm not sure, but if it was me that would be the first thing I tried.
FrankB2
Well-known member
Here's a very simple and effective loop:
I made that loop (and a few others) after my welded loop(s) cracked. Simply cut the welded loop off, dab a tiny amount of CA on the end of the line to seal it, and fold it over. I used two whip finishes, covered with a pliable waterproof sealant. The stores near me didn't have Pilobond, so I used Loctite's version of the adhesive. After nearly a year of hard fishing with the loop above, it shows zero signs of wear. The line itself is wearing out, but the loop held perfectly. I bought something that included a Cortland pre-formed loop, and tried it because I was bored. It stinks. The loop I made is every bit as flexible as a welded loop, as I only coated the thread, and left space between the two thread wraps. Total time was about 10 minutes or less.
I made that loop (and a few others) after my welded loop(s) cracked. Simply cut the welded loop off, dab a tiny amount of CA on the end of the line to seal it, and fold it over. I used two whip finishes, covered with a pliable waterproof sealant. The stores near me didn't have Pilobond, so I used Loctite's version of the adhesive. After nearly a year of hard fishing with the loop above, it shows zero signs of wear. The line itself is wearing out, but the loop held perfectly. I bought something that included a Cortland pre-formed loop, and tried it because I was bored. It stinks. The loop I made is every bit as flexible as a welded loop, as I only coated the thread, and left space between the two thread wraps. Total time was about 10 minutes or less.
FrankB2
Well-known member
I actually took that idea from RipTide. He uses 3 whips, but he fishes saltwater quite a bit. Only the thread is coated with Pliobond or its equivalent. There is a slight bit of overlap with the adhesive onto the line, but that picture is magnified quite a bit. Too much adhesive would only add weight, and make the loop less flexible. Just enough to seal the thread....