New Guy with fly line question

[drjay9051]

Vast choices in fly lines. I have been told that really any salt water floating line will work as a floating line. No real difference between bonefish taper, redfish taper etc. True or false?

Also the Royal Wulff Ambush line is not listed as a salt or fresh water line. Can i use it in fresh and salt?

Just getting into fly fishing and wondering if these dozens of lines is more about sales than just catching fish.

I know to get a good quality line but the choices are leading to confusion at this point.

 

[Hirdy]

Ignore the bit about salt or fresh water. You can use lines in any water. Lines with a tropical rating might be a bit stiff in colder climates and the cold water line will be a bit sticky in hot climates.

Cheers,
Graeme

 

[JDR]

For me, buying a fly line is the very worst part of this hobby. It is my firm opinion that the line manufacturers deliberately make selection confusing. The line companies have no allegiance to established line weights; making it difficult for the novice to know whether the line will actually be suitable for a given rod. I think they deliberately make it so confusing because: A) there really isn't that much difference in the lines other than warm water or cold water performance. B) if you do guess wrong you have to buy another whole line to find if (maybe) that one is the answer, and C) hoping that you will just buy SOMETHING with their name on it, even if it is just out of frustration.
I know my views will bring disagreement and this does nothing to answer your questions, but I just wanted to let you know that you are not the only one confused and confounded by this segment of the market.

 

[JDR]

For me, buying a fly line is the very worst part of this hobby. It is my firm opinion that the line manufacturers deliberately make selection confusing. The line companies have no allegiance to established line weights; making it difficult for the novice to know whether the line will actually be suitable for a given rod. I think they deliberately make it so confusing because: A) there really isn't that much difference in the lines other than warm water or cold water performance. B) if you do guess wrong you have to buy another whole line to find if (maybe) that one is the answer, and C) hoping that you will just buy SOMETHING with their name on it, even if it is just out of frustration.
I know my views will bring disagreement and this does nothing to answer your questions, but I just wanted to let you know that you are not the only one confused and confounded by this segment of the industry.

 

[drjay9051]

Ignore the bit about salt or fresh water. You can use lines in any water. Lines with a tropical rating might be a bit stiff in colder climates and the cold water line will be a bit sticky in hot climates.

Cheers,
Graeme

I appreciate your reply.

Common sense tells me mono is mono but with all the advertising it is daunting at times.

I know there is a difference in sinking vs floating but in my mind a hungry redfish will take a fly on a bonefish taper and vice versa. I imagine as one gets deep into the sport they feel the need for a species specific taper but does the fish know the difference??

 

[deceiverbob]

Is this line for the 6 wt GL3 you intend to use for bass and inshore salt?

 

[drjay9051]

Is this line for the 6 wt GL3 you intend to use for bass and inshore salt?

Hey Bob:

I am going to try the Wulff Ambush on the GL 3 for bass. I'll be pairing with a Redington Behemoth reel. It will be 6 wt line. I had had read something about overlining the Ambush by 2 wts but from what I understand that had to do with a specialized type of fishing. Don't recall if it was spey, skagit, scandi or switch. I have so much to learn.

Apparently 6 wt Ambush will pair with the 6 wt Loomis for my intended purpose. Allegedly allows me to throw larger flies due to it's design. Better to stick with conventional bass line ??

As far as salt I am going to get a second outfit. Guess I am hooked. No pun intended.

Likely going with Redington predator 9 wt rod, Orvis Hydros Sl reel. Going 9 wt as I fully intend to try for redfish, snook and others. I have been told by local guide 8 or 9 wt is better for these species than is 6. My thought is 9 wt as "insurance" should I hook up a big redfish or snook.

As far as line that is where it is so confusing. I decided to stick with one brand to lessen the confusion hence Wulff. Of course they have lines for different species as well as the Ambush, Bermuda short, Bermuda Triangle etc. That is just the floating line.

Frankly don't know if I need floating or a slow sink line for inshore salt such as flats, oyster bars, brackish where Withlocoochee empties into gulf. I will be fishing out of Crystal River Fl and Yankeetown Fl on the gulf if you know the region.


Buying the salt setup from Stillwater Fly Shop since they give me a $75 credit towards the fly line when i buy the reel. No more expensive than is Amazon and the free line is a plus.

Appreciate your help.

Any thoughts?

 

[deceiverbob]

I have several 6 wts and use a Wulff Bass Taper line on them for reds, speckled trout and bass. It is a line that has worked well with every rod I have tried it on. I did have one on an 8 wt rod but that outfit was stolen. For the fishing you are describing with your 9 wt I would get a floating line. The Wulff Bermuda triangle would be my choice in their line up. I fish that line on my 10 and 12 wt rods

 

[drjay9051]

I have several 6 wts and use a Wulff Bass Taper line on them for reds, speckled trout and bass. It is a line that has worked well with every rod I have tried it on. I did have one on an 8 wt rod but that outfit was stolen. For the fishing you are describing with your 9 wt I would get a floating line. The Wulff Bermuda triangle would be my choice in their line up. I fish that line on my 10 and 12 wt rods

Appreciate the information.
Now I need to Google Skagit, Spey, Scandi and Switch. After that it is on to the Ts.

What ever happened to plain old fly fishing ???

 

[deceiverbob]

Appreciate the information.
Now I need to Google Skagit, Spey, Scandi and Switch. After that it is on to the Ts.

What ever happened to plain old fly fishing ???

Spey rods are two handed rods used mainly for salmon and steelhead fish. Skagit and Scandi are different lines used in Spey casting. Switch rods are rods that are able to "switch" back and forth between single handed overhead casting an two handed spey casting. They are longer than traditional single hand rods but shorter than most Spey rods. In most saltwater fishing singlehand rods are used.

 

[silver creek]

For me, buying a fly line is the very worst part of this hobby. It is my firm opinion that the line manufacturers deliberately make selection confusing. The line companies have no allegiance to established line weights; making it difficult for the novice to know whether the line will actually be suitable for a given rod. I think they deliberately make it so confusing because: A) there really isn't that much difference in the lines other than warm water or cold water performance. B) if you do guess wrong you have to buy another whole line to find if (maybe) that one is the answer, and C) hoping that you will just buy SOMETHING with their name on it, even if it is just out of frustration.
I know my views will bring disagreement and this does nothing to answer your questions, but I just wanted to let you know that you are not the only one confused and confounded by this segment of the industry.

I understand your frustration. However, what is confusing for you in fly lines is no different in my opinion than what could be said of fly rods, or flies for that manner. The proliferation of choices which is a beginner's nightmare is another's opportunity.

When I started fly fishing there was one standard WF taper and it was identical to the DT taper. So that is what we bought. If you wanted anything different you had to cut up the standard fly lines to make a shooting head for example.

Here's the deal. Those same lines are STILL AVAILABLE! You can effectively go back 40 years in time and buy a standard DT or Standard WF line in a basic Cortland 333 coating.

What you see is confusion is an opportunity to tailor the fly line taper to the type of fishing and species of fish you are are going to pursue. So if you do not like the choices, there is a solution. Buy the vanilla fly line taper.

My beef is not that there are too many choices. My beef is that it is not always easy to find the taper diagram for the line. The taper diagram and the weight of the fly line in grams for the first 30 feet should be on every manufacturers box.

Similarly for fly rods, the AFTMA should set a standard for a mass/weight in grams for every rod line rating and a diagram of the rod bend from the horizontal with that weight suspended should be available for every rod. That would give the buyer a comparison of the flex profile of the rod.

Confusion is only confusion when there is a lack of clear available information.

The problem is NOT that there are too many fly lines. You can always buy the standard vanilla fly line. The problem is that for some lines, I cannot easily find a taper diagram that will allow me to compare apples to apples.

 

[flav]

I agree that the 9 wt floating Bermuda TT would be a great choice on a 9 wt intended for shallow water reds, trout, and snook.

 

[Esteban Urban]

There are differences between each of them. I will choose one that have a short head, if posibble, with most of its weight at the front. This will let you load your road and turn any kind of fly over easily.
I usually reccommend a short head fly line for begginers as this will make things easier for them.

Regards!

 

[Hirdy]

There are differences between each of them. I will choose one that have a short head, if posibble, with most of its weight at the front. This will let you load your road and turn any kind of fly over easily.
I usually reccommend a short head fly line for begginers as this will make things easier for them.

Regards!

I usually recommend a DT line because a short head line will limit the development of a beginner. Sure, a short head line offers instant gratification, but if they ever want to become a good caster, those lines will work against that goal. Treat them as "training wheels" only.

It's better for the beginner to practice casting well so they can progress beyond the term "beginner".

Cheers,
Graeme

 

[Esteban Urban]

I usually recommend a DT line because a short head line will limit the development of a beginner. Sure, a short head line offers instant gratification, but if they ever want to become a good caster, those lines will work against that goal. Treat them as "training wheels" only.

It's better for the beginner to practice casting well so they can progress beyond the term "beginner".

Cheers,
Graeme

Under my experience, with a DT the caster (begginer or not) will need much more line out to properly load the rod. This for a begginer will make things much more difficult, even more if you think about a real fishing scenery, with river current, wind blowing and a very limited room for the back cast.
I agree that a longer head or a DT will provide the angler the oportunity to improve the aesthetic part of the casting and even more the fly presentation, but I don't agree with the idea that a DT will let the angler become a beter caster than the one who cast a short head WF line.

Esteban.