Indicator Tippet - What's your preference?

[ts47]

I'm shopping for some indicator tippet to use in a tight-line nymph leader I will be tying. I noticed that Orvis, SA, Rio and Cortland (maybe others) all sell it, and some in different sizes. Do you have any you prefer or any you don't like. And, Do you have a thickness preference for said tippet? It is available in 4x - 0x.

Looking at all the options, it just got a little too complicated and thought I would get some direction from the group before I made a purchase? Thanks in advance.

 

[goshawk87]

I really really like the Orvis stuff, it’s tri colored, and easy to see.

 

[ts47]

Since Orvis owns SA, I'm guessing they are the same tippet. The tricolor pattern every 8 inches looks interesting. Both are 0x. Others go as low as 4x. Is there any benefit or negative with the different strengths of tippet when using different sized nymphs or am I overthinking things? I would use anything from a size 22 to size 10 nymph and usually with some weight - beadhead or split shot.

I also suspect that a more supple (smaller size) material would be better for the indicator section of the leader. Wouldn't this allow greater detection of strikes? I don't think I'd want to go as low as 4x for fear of breaking that section of the leader if the nymph gets hung-up. I plan to have a tippet ring at the end of this section so I can change things out as needed. Again, I don't want to overthink things.

Anyone have any opinions?

 

[el jefe]

Since Orvis owns SA, I'm guessing they are the same tippet. The tricolor pattern every 8 inches looks interesting. Both are 0x. Others go as low as 4x. Is there any benefit or negative with the different strengths of tippet when using different sized nymphs or am I overthinking things? I would use anything from a size 22 to size 10 nymph and usually with some weight - beadhead or split shot.

I also suspect that a more supple (smaller size) material would be better for the indicator section of the leader. Wouldn't this allow greater detection of strikes? I don't think I'd want to go as low as 4x for fear of breaking that section of the leader if the nymph gets hung-up. I plan to have a tippet ring at the end of this section so I can change things out as needed. Again, I don't want to overthink things.

Anyone have any opinions?

We're fly fishers. This board is of, by, and for overthinkers.

Sorry, I don't have anything valuable to contribute on this particular topic, just wanted to help you maintain perspective.

 

[ts47]

We're fly fishers. This board is of, by, and for overthinkers.

Sorry, I don't have anything valuable to contribute on this particular topic, just wanted to help you maintain perspective.

Ha! Great response!! :thumbsup:

 

[spm]

I don't want to overthink things.

Too late.

s.

 

[reels]

I just make my own; 12" of Amnesia red 12lb followed by 12" of Amnesia yellow 10lb.

Based on my experience Amnesia holds up better (both structurally and color wise) than pre-made indicators and allows me to taper the indicator, but I haven't tried all the brands out there.

In terms of thickness it's probably worth considering what you're running for a euro line and tippet. If your indicator is too thin it can inhibit the ability for your line to turn over when casting and if too thick it's less able to convey subtle strikes. I'd probably go for the 0x or 1x, but its not clear if you are using a mono rig or a specialized nymphing line.

 

[silver creek]

^^^^ What he said. Devin Olsen of Tactical Fly Fisher and other competition anglers cut the tags of the sighter blood knot leaving longer tags that aid in strike detection. They make it easier to see very subtle strikes.

You can see that the Tactical Flyfisher nymphing leader with sighter tags below.

Another method is to tie a colored section of dacron backing with a barrel knot seated against the sighter blood knot.

Another method is the usage of high viz UV resin pearls on the sigher.

 

[ts47]

I just make my own; 12" of Amnesia red 12lb followed by 12" of Amnesia yellow 10lb.

Based on my experience Amnesia holds up better (both structurally and color wise) than pre-made indicators and allows me to taper the indicator, but I haven't tried all the brands out there.

In terms of thickness it's probably worth considering what you're running for a euro line and tippet. If your indicator is too thin it can inhibit the ability for your line to turn over when casting and if too thick it's less able to convey subtle strikes. I'd probably go for the 0x or 1x, but its not clear if you are using a mono rig or a specialized nymphing line.

Thanks Reels! I hadn't considered using Amnesia to tie my own or to add tapper to the leader. I usually add a 6" Amnesia sighter to my streamer leaders. I'm not using anything specialized, just a mono leader. I usually start with a Maxima Chameleon 25 lb butt section, adjust for distance and taper from there. I use a version of Gary Borger's Uni-leader that Silver shared some time back. I may have said this already, but the plan is to add a tippet ring at the end of the sighter to create a reusable nymph leader for tight line nymphing. I'll likely tie two versions, one for bigger water and one for small or smaller nymphs with less weight.

 

[ts47]

^^^^ What he said. Devin Olsen of Tactical Fly Fisher and other competition anglers cut the tags of the sighter blood knot leaving longer tags that aid in strike detection. They make it easier to see very subtle strikes.

You can see that the Tactical Flyfisher nymphing leader with sighter tags below.

Another method is to tie a colored section of dacron backing with a barrel knot seated against the sighter blood knot.

Another method is the usage of high viz UV resin pearls on the sigher.

Thanks Silver! I hope all is well with you.

You and Reels above have given me some ideas. You may want to see my reply to Reels just above in case you have any more suggestions. Otherwise, I think I have something I can work with now.

 

[reels]

I usually start with a Maxima Chameleon 25 lb butt section, adjust for distance and taper from there. I use a version of Gary Borger's Uni-leader that Silver shared some time back. I may have said this already, but the plan is to add a tippet ring at the end of the sighter to create a reusable nymph leader for tight line nymphing.

Not familiar with the Uni-leader, but sounds like a plan. If you have any interesting results with that setup, pls report.

For my mono rig, I personally I found no major benefit in tapering off my mono other than what I mentioned in the indicator construction.
I'm of the school that the fewer connection points on the rig, the better.
I just run Maxima Chameleon 15 lb off my backing and attach my hand made sighter directly to it.
I also use a tippet ring on the end of my sighter and run my tippet directly off there.
For safety, I always carry at least 1 extra sighter (already setup with tippet ring) with me just in case.

 

[silver creek]

Devin Olsen has some helpful information on his blogs but they are hard to find. You hvae to dig down to get his older posts.

Here is one on his "eurodropper hybrid leader" system. He uses it to switch between a dry/dropper and a euronymphing set up.

http://www.tacticalflyfisher.com/blog/battling-the-wind-with-a-eurodrydropper-hybrid-rig/

Here is his post on standard Euronymphing leaders.

The Tactical Fly Fisherman: Euro Nymphing 101: Part 2

 

[ts47]

Devin Olsen has some helpful information on his blogs but they are hard to find. You hvae to dig down to get his older posts.

Here is one on his "eurodropper hybrid leader" system. He uses it to switch between a dry/dropper and a euronymphing set up.

http://www.tacticalflyfisher.com/blog/battling-the-wind-with-a-eurodrydropper-hybrid-rig/

Here is his post on standard Euronymphing leaders.

The Tactical Fly Fisherman: Euro Nymphing 101: Part 2

Thanks Silver! As always... Your input is appreciated.

 

[ts47]

Not familiar with the Uni-leader, but sounds like a plan. If you have any interesting results with that setup, pls report.

For my mono rig, I personally I found no major benefit in tapering off my mono other than what I mentioned in the indicator construction.
I'm of the school that the fewer connection points on the rig, the better.
I just run Maxima Chameleon 15 lb off my backing and attach my hand made sighter directly to it.
I also use a tippet ring on the end of my sighter and run my tippet directly off there.
For safety, I always carry at least 1 extra sighter (already setup with tippet ring) with me just in case.

Thanks Reels. This has been helpful, and will do. :thumbsup:

 

[clouserguyky]

Not familiar with the Uni-leader, but sounds like a plan. If you have any interesting results with that setup, pls report.

For my mono rig, I personally I found no major benefit in tapering off my mono other than what I mentioned in the indicator construction.
I'm of the school that the fewer connection points on the rig, the better.
I just run Maxima Chameleon 15 lb off my backing and attach my hand made sighter directly to it.
I also use a tippet ring on the end of my sighter and run my tippet directly off there.
For safety, I always carry at least 1 extra sighter (already setup with tippet ring) with me just in case.

This is what I do as well. 25'-40' of 20# Mono, 10" of Red Amnesia, 10" of Gold Stren to tippet ring. Works great, and much cheaper than the indicator tippet spools.

 

[ts47]

This is what I do as well. 25'-40' of 20# Mono, 10" of Red Amnesia, 10" of Gold Stren to tippet ring. Works great, and much cheaper than the indicator tippet spools.

Just saw your post. Thanks clouserguyky! You are right. Those preimade indicator tippet spools cost $10-15 a pop. Stren would work too and be a lot less expensive.

 

[osseous]

Another option is a 12' Rio Suppleflex leader, followed by a built sighter (matched or stepped down X size between the two), tippet ring, and tippet to straight tippet with point fly and droppers. You can drop shot or use a heavy point fly, based on preference. This way, no knots have to come through your tip to land fish- beyond the leader to flyline.

Cortland makes white sighter material- I build a sighter from white, plus two florescent colors (Rio)- I cut the various segments I want and use blood knots to re-join them. Just leave the tags in place to get the effect outlined above and credited to Devin Olsen. I learned of it from George Daniel. If you are encountering weeds- just clip the tags. The tri colored sighter really helps in mixed sun/shade/clouds conditions.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[darkshadow]

I have spools of this stuff leftover from the bass fishing side:

Sunline

Never knew the different colored sections would come in handy, but it definitely does for high stick nymphing sans indicators.

 

[jonbo]

I have one of Devin Olsen's (Tactical Fly Fisher) commercially sold leaders. It looks to me like they use 2 colors of Amnesia for the sighter. That's what I will probably do if I tie my own. That stuff's pretty bright, at least as bright as say, the Cortland bicolor, and it's pretty cheap. I think Amnesia comes in red, yellow AND green, not sure. If that's so, you can make a regular christmas tree out of it. But as other's have mentioned, you would want to get the proper thickness/stiffness to match the leader before it, you know, tapering down, for turnover. That's where planning comes in!

Now, I see above at least one formula where you end up with about a 20 foot leader-point fly set up. I don't think that's quite enough if your line behind it is standard weight forward. I think that would work better if you're running euro-line. If your line is a traditional one, you don't want any line off of the reel before you hook a fish. In that case I think you need to plan to have your leader be a good 25 foot to the tippet ring, and 30' to the point fly. I guess, though, all you need to do is have the section of 20 lb MaxCham be 20 feet instead of 10 feet, so that's easy. I keep on wanting to taper as I go back, so I would instead add a 10' piece of 25 lb MaxCham to the 20 lb. I don't know if anyone else would think that's important. Not sure why I do.