bob3700
Well-known member
What is the best method to straighten leaders. I get storing them off the reel is best but what techniques work to take the curl out of the leader.
Strqaightening Leaders
- Thread starter bob3700
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tcorfey
Well-known member
Hi Bob, if you use the search tool in the top right corner of the screen there are a bunch of different threads on this
Heres one from last year with 19 responses
http://https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/fly-lines/590879-tips-straightening-leaders.html?highlight=straighten+leaders
Heres one from last year with 19 responses
http://https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/fly-lines/590879-tips-straightening-leaders.html?highlight=straighten+leaders
silver creek
Well-known member
This question has been asked many times and it basically boils down to three techniques.
One method is to pull on the leader to stretch the leader and the mono will relax.
The second method is using friction to create heat, which then relaxes the leader material. Leader straighteners are usually rubber pads attached to a fancy leather patch.
The problem with using these devices is that the amount of heat they create is hard to predict. Plus, unless the rubber pad surface is absolutely clean, grit can abrade the leader. If you are going to use the friction method, I suggest that you do not use it on the tippet section of the leader because you can weaken the tippet without realizing it. So use it to straighten the coiled butt section which is the most difficult section to straighten and use the stretch method to straighten the distal portion of the leader.
The third method is really the best, LOL. :secret:
Catch a big fish and it will straighten the leader for you. (Wish this was my fish but it is from Gink and Gasoline)
I always use a piece of inner tube, however I am sure there are several ways. CB
rangerrich99
Well-known member
The best way I s to simply buy a furled leader.
JoJer
Well-known member
I'd read years ago that inner tube will scratch the mono, the scratches hold dirt and the leader wont float as well.
I stick my finger in my mouth just past the first knuckle to wet it, take a single turn of leader around my wet finger, hold pressure with my thumb against it and pull and stretch the leader with my other hand. If the leader doesn't straighten, you need more pressure and you're pulling too slow. If you're getting cut or raising blisters- too much pressure and pulling too fast (and getting the leader too hot). Find midlin ground and you'll have straight leader and no injuries. Knots hurt!
I stick my finger in my mouth just past the first knuckle to wet it, take a single turn of leader around my wet finger, hold pressure with my thumb against it and pull and stretch the leader with my other hand. If the leader doesn't straighten, you need more pressure and you're pulling too slow. If you're getting cut or raising blisters- too much pressure and pulling too fast (and getting the leader too hot). Find midlin ground and you'll have straight leader and no injuries. Knots hurt!
weiliwen
Well-known member
I agree with the furled leader comments; I also think they lay down line more softly than a tapered mono leader. Just keep it impregnated with floatant so it doesn't absorb water which can spray the stream as you cast out. I also like them for nymphing; I can tie two lines to the tippet ring at the end of the furled leader, when I want to use two nymphs.
But when I don't have a furled leader on, I will just run 2-foot sections through my fingers to warm the leader up, and hold it taut for a couple seconds, then move on to the next section. What I like about this method is not so much that it straightens the leader, although it does that job fine, but it allows you to feel the taper of the leader. I've found that many leaders have very little taper for the first 3 1/2 feet, then the taper is pretty sudden, then gradually tapered from there. So it's not a continuous taper, generally. I haven't tried every tapered leader from every vendor, but all I've tried are like this.
But when I don't have a furled leader on, I will just run 2-foot sections through my fingers to warm the leader up, and hold it taut for a couple seconds, then move on to the next section. What I like about this method is not so much that it straightens the leader, although it does that job fine, but it allows you to feel the taper of the leader. I've found that many leaders have very little taper for the first 3 1/2 feet, then the taper is pretty sudden, then gradually tapered from there. So it's not a continuous taper, generally. I haven't tried every tapered leader from every vendor, but all I've tried are like this.
sweetandsalt
Well-known member
My experience is the best way to straighten a Nylon leader without frictional energy damaging it is to soak it in warm water for a while. Nylon is slightly porous and will adsorb some of the wet heat. Then, tying some weight to the tippet like a nut, hang the leader from a deck or tree or whatever and allow it to cool and dry. It will emerge dead straight.
scotty macfly
Well-known member
Another vote for a furled leader. Not a nylon furled leader, but a threaded furled leader.
mka
Well-known member
I like to use tapered mono leaders. But, I had to give up on Rio tapered leaders and started using Scientific Anglers leaders...SA is so much easier to straighten regardless of what method used.
I’ve never really had any issue with Rio, or with SA and stroft... I just pinch between my thumb and forefinger, then pull through under tension so it generates some warmth on the skin.
I tend to leave a leader on my reel, so will run through my thumb/finger 2-4 times and then string up the rod.... i’d normally do the thicker butt end again just before I tie a fly on and start fishing...
I tend to leave a leader on my reel, so will run through my thumb/finger 2-4 times and then string up the rod.... i’d normally do the thicker butt end again just before I tie a fly on and start fishing...
clouserguyky
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I tie my most of leaders with Maxima Chameleon because it's a very durable material, but also because it has very little memory. When I have the unfortunate experience of not fishing for a week or more, I just have to give the mono a brief stretch and it's ready to go. I've not had the same luck with Ultragreen.
The other material I use is Berekly Big Game. Yep, the stuff from Walmart. It's a softer mono and stretches nicely too. I use it for dries and for topwater bass flies. No leather took needed, just stretch it with my hands in two foot sections.
The other material I use is Berekly Big Game. Yep, the stuff from Walmart. It's a softer mono and stretches nicely too. I use it for dries and for topwater bass flies. No leather took needed, just stretch it with my hands in two foot sections.
silver creek
Well-known member
I rarely have to stretch leaders during the season. I keep 4 pc rods all rigged up with the last fly I used. I put them in my DBDunn 2 pc rod/reel cases. The rods are broken down at the middle ferrule into 2 pieces and the fly is at the tip top guide. With a 9 foot rod and a 9 ft leader, the leader is bent in the middle but is otherwise stretched out.
I just put the rod together and I am ready to fish. I take the rod out, assemble it and I am ready to go.
These are the rod cases I use except they are double rod cases.
I just put the rod together and I am ready to fish. I take the rod out, assemble it and I am ready to go.
These are the rod cases I use except they are double rod cases.
I've always found a quick stretch does it for me. Why carry yet anther gadget when you don't really need one?
Keeping rods strung up like silver does is another option, but I hate the bend you get in your leader when you do it that way. I think that's harder to straighten than the coils you get off the reel.
Keeping rods strung up like silver does is another option, but I hate the bend you get in your leader when you do it that way. I think that's harder to straighten than the coils you get off the reel.