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peregrines 01-23-2012 01:39 PM

Crazy Charlie SBS
Crazy Charlie (SBS)
This bonefish pattern was invented in the 1970's and the basic tying steps used to tie it are used in 100's of similar patterns.  
Type of fly Bonefish pattern that imitates shrimp
Originator of pattern if known Bob Nauheim
Tied and Submitted by peregrines
Level of tying experience needed to tie this pattern Beginner, a very simple bonefish pattern using basic tying skills. This pattern is another in our upcoming series of Saltwater Fly Tying Lessons.
Materials....... Standard saltwater hooks (usually size 2-8)....... Beadchain or barbell eyes.......clear V Rib (or 12 lb monofilament for over body)...... Flat Pearl tinsel for body....... White thread....... Calftail for wing
Materials listed in order of tie in:
Hook Standard saltwater hook 2-8 (usually 4-6) a Mustad 3407DT size 4 used here
Thread White Danville's Flat Waxed here
Eyes Beadchain or dumbell eyes depending on desired sinkrate (Based on water depth) 1/8" beadchain used here
Overbody Clear V - Rib or clear monofilament around 12lb test or so. In addition to providing a bit of translucence, the overbody helps protect the tinsel body which is a bit fragile
Body Flat pearl tinsel
Wing Calftail ( also called "kip tail") tan used here
Head Thread
Special tying notes An easy fly to tie, this can also be considered a "bonefish style" since many bonefish patterns with a zillion names are tied essentially the same way-- with beadchain or dumbell eyes on top of the shank and a wing of some sort tied on an inverted hook so the fly rides hook point up in the water. You'll see many bonefish patterns tied with chenille, dubbing, synthetic yarn, flat braided mylar etc for bodies and using calftail, squirrel tail, bucktail, fox tail, hackle tips, marabou and synthetics (such as Craft Fur, Fish Hair etc) alone or in combination for the wings.
Tie on thread at the 66% (on the shank approx 1/3 of the way back from hook eye)
Attach beadchain or dumbell eyes on top of the shank at the 66% point. On the finished fly, the eyes will flip the fly so it will ride inverted (hook point up). The steps are the same as you used to attach the eyes on a Clouser Deep Minnow (also included with step by steps in this pattern library).
After securing the eyes on top of the shank with figure 8 wraps as described in the Clouser Deep Minnow SBS, remember to take cinching turns of thread BETWEEN the eyes and top of the hook shank to cinch the figure 8 wraps tight. This will help secure the eyes and prevent the eyes from flopping off to one side of the hook.
Wrap thread in touching turns to rear of shank and part way down into bend. Secure a 6" length of clear V Rib or monofilament to the top of the shank so that approx 5" are extending to the rear and a tag end of approx 1" extending toward the front of the hook. Working forward with thread wraps, bind down the 1" tag end with touching turns of thread on top of the shank to just behind the eyes
Tie in an 8" length of pearl flat tinsel directly behind the eye. We are going to wind a double layer of tinsel to form the body.
Advance the thread in front of the eyes to get it out of the way. Wrap the tinsel in tight touching turns towards the rear of the hook and slightly down the bend, covering previous thread wraps used to bind down the V rib or mono rib.
Wind the flat tinsel forward over the previous layer of tinsel back to behind the eye. Note the thread bobbin is hanging from a thread bobbin in this pic to keep it out of the way.
Take 3-4 tight turns to bind down the tinsel behind the eyes. If your vise rotates, flip the jaws to trim the tinsel. This will help ensure that you won't cut the thread too by mistake. If your jaws don't rotate, just be careful when trimming-- you can hold the thread bobbin up with your left hand while you cut the excess tinsel with scissors in your right hand.
Once the tinsel body has been wrapped and the excess has benn trimmed we are ready to wind the over body of clear V Rib or monofilament
Wrap the V Rib or monofilament over body in tight touching turns and secure with tight thread wraps directly behind the eyes.
Take the tag end of V rib or mono between the eyes on top of the shank and advance the thread with figure 8 wraps between the eyes and secure with additional tight turns of thread directly in front of the eyes. Since V rib and especially monofilament can be a bit slippery, these additional turns of thread ensure that the rib won't pull out. Trim the excess V rib or mono
At this point, unless you can adjust the jaw angle up or down on your vise you'll probably want to remove the hook and invert it before reseating it in the jaws. Because many vises have a fixed head angle set at 3o degrees, even if your jaws rotate, you'll probably want to remove the hook from the jaws, and reseat the inverted hook in the jaws. Since the thread is not tied off, be careful not to let the thread unravel when you remove the hook to invert it and reseat it in the jaws.
Select a bunch of calf hair-- about half the diameter of a wooden kitchen match, and snip from the calf tail at the base of the hair. Remove any fuzz, broken hair from the base of the clump, and any long hairs sticking out of the top. The hair does not have to be stacked, but the tips should just be roughly even. Measure the length from the wing tie in point just in front of the bead chain so that the tips extend just past the bend of the hook.
Tie in directly in front of eyes on top of the now inverted shank with several tight turns of thread.
Trim butts, build a neat thread head, tie off with two 4 turn whip finishes and coat with a couple layers of head cement.
Target species Bonefish and other saltwater fish that feed on shrimp near the bottom
Fishing notes An easy to tie shrimp pattern that can be tied in various sizes and colors to match local shrimp and bottom colors. It can be weighted with beadchain for shallow flats or dumbell eyes for deeper water.

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