peregrines
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Another easy to tie shrimp pattern for the bonefish, redfish etc
Type of fly | Bonefish pattern that imitates many types of shrimp
Originator of pattern if known | Tim Borski
Tied and Submitted by | peregrines
Level of tying experience needed to tie this pattern | Beginner, a very simple shrimp pattern using basic tying skills. This pattern is another in our upcoming series of Saltwater Fly Tying Lessons.
Materials listed in order of tie in:|
Hook | Standard saltwater hook 1/0-8 (usually 2-6) a Mustad 3407DT size 2 used here
Thread | Orange Danville's Flat Waxed here
Eyes | Beadchain or dumbell eyes depending on desired sinkrate (Based on water depth) 1/8" beadchain used here
Flash | Some short strands of Krystal Flash usually orange yellow or pearl are doubled and tied in by the middle with 1/2 of strands pointing towards the rear of the hook, the other 1/2 of the strands pointing forward, then folded back and bound down with thread wraps.
Tail | Kraft Fur (tan used here) about the same length as the hook. The tail will be propped upright with thread wraps. After the fly is complete the tail will be barred with permanent marker
Antennae | optional- 2 long strands of dark Krystal Flash tied in at the middle on top of shank and bound down with thread wraps so they extend along each
Legs | Grizzly hackle tied in at rear and palmered over body. The hackle will be given a haircut buy trimming top and sides after fly is completed
Overbody | Clear V - Rib or clear monofilament around 12lb test or so. In addition to providing a bit of translucence, the overbody helps protect the tinsel body which is a bit fragile
Body| Fluff from Kraft Fur removed from base of material cut for tail
Single Prong Weedguard | 12 or 15 lb test Hard Mason monofilament or similar- a weed guard is essential on this fly to keep it from getting fouled with grass
Head | Thread covered in several coats of head cement
Special tying notes | An easy fly to tie
Materials
Standard length saltwater hook, size 1/0-8 (usually sizes 2-6).... a length of beadchain...... 15 lb Mason Hard Monofilament to form single prong weed guard..... a pair of pliers to cut beadchain into pairs for eyes and to flatten a short section of Hard Mono before tying in....... thread..... strung grizzly saddle hackle..... tan Kraft Fur for tail.... optional packs of Krystal flash for highlights and antennae not shown here |
Start your thread at the 2/3 point on the shank |
Invert hook |
Tie in bead chain or dumbbell eyes on the top of the inverted hook shank-- unlike a Clouser or many bonefish flies, this pattern is designed to ride hook point down |
Flip hook in vise. Wind thread towards rear of hook. Tie in a bunch of Krystal Flash for the tail on top of shank directly over barb. Yellow Krystal Flash used here |
Select a bunch of Kraft Fur for tail and cut from backing. Pull the fuzz from the bottom of the Kraft Fur and do not discard-- this will be used to dub the body |
Measure the Kraft Fur against the hook-- The tail when tied in should extend from the rear of the hook approximately one hook length (as measured from in front of eye to end of bend) |
Bind the Kraft fur down on the shank directly above the barb point |
It nmay be necessary to repeat the last step with another hunk of Kraft Fur especially on larger hooks. If so, tie in a another hunk of Kraft fur-- it is better to tie in several individual smaller hanks than trying to tie in one thick one. |
Work your way forward with thread wraps to just behind the eyes to bind down the butt ends of the Kraft Fur to form a smooth under body |
Work the thread back to rear of fly. If you want antennae, tie in 2 strands of dark colored Krystal Flash by the middle and stream each half of the doubled strands along each side of the tail and bind down-- you should end up with 2 antennae on each side. Lift the Kraft Fur up and take several wraps of thread around the bare shank directly behind the tail. This will help prop the tail up a bit to reduce fouling |
Select a grizzly hackle and remove fluff from base of stem. Tie in the grizzly hackle by the base of the feather leaving approximately a 1/4" of bare stem to avoid trapping any barbs in the first turn of hackle. The bright side of the feather should be facing forward so that the barbs will slant rearward when the feather is wrapped. In this pic, the dull underside of the feather is facing toward the camera so it will be facing rearward when wrapped.|
Bind remainder of feather stem down with thread wraps to behind eyes. Trim excess stem and return thread to rear of hook with wraps to make smooth underbody for dubbing. Dub 2" of thread using the fluff of Kraft Fur you saved from the hunk cut for the tail. If you have difficulty dubbing the Kraft Fur fluff, some saliva, dubbing wax, or drawing the thread through the side of a candle might help. Keep the dubbing sparse when you apply it to the thread, you don't want a thick noodle. |
Take tight turns forward with the dubbed thread-- add more dubbing as needed, until you reach just behind the eyes and let thread bobbin hang here |
Palmer hackle forward by wrapping in open turns over the dubbed body to waiting thread and tie off. Note tip of feather extending to bottom right. This will need to be trimmed before proceeding to the next step |
After clipping off excess hackle tip, figure 8 wrap between behind and in front of eyes with dubbed thread |
Form smooth thread base for attachment of mono weedguard. Cut a short length of 12-20 lb Mason Hard Monofilament and crimp it with pliers to flatten the mono near one end of the short piece-- this will make it easier to attach with thread wraps. |
Build a thread dam behind the mono to prop it straight up and cut mono to a length so it sticks straight up just a bit taller than hook point. Whip finish and tie off, the tying part is complete. Flip hook in vise and trim off top and sides of hackle |
Remove fly from vise and lay flat on cardboard to mark tail and top of body with bands of a permanent marker-- brown and olive used here. Put back in vise or block of styrofoam etc and coat with several coats of head cement |
Target species | Bonefish, redfish and other saltwater fish that feed on shrimp near the bottom
Fishing notes | An easy to tie shrimp pattern that can be tied in various sizes and colors to match local shrimp and bottom colors. It can be weighted with beadchain for shallow flats or dumbell eyes for deeper water. A good imitation for common and snapping shrimp on sandy flats, mangrove flats and weed beds.
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Fur Shrimp (with Step By Step pics and instructions)
Another easy to tie shrimp pattern for the bonefish, redfish etc
Type of fly | Bonefish pattern that imitates many types of shrimp
Originator of pattern if known | Tim Borski
Tied and Submitted by | peregrines
Level of tying experience needed to tie this pattern | Beginner, a very simple shrimp pattern using basic tying skills. This pattern is another in our upcoming series of Saltwater Fly Tying Lessons.
Materials listed in order of tie in:|
Hook | Standard saltwater hook 1/0-8 (usually 2-6) a Mustad 3407DT size 2 used here
Thread | Orange Danville's Flat Waxed here
Eyes | Beadchain or dumbell eyes depending on desired sinkrate (Based on water depth) 1/8" beadchain used here
Flash | Some short strands of Krystal Flash usually orange yellow or pearl are doubled and tied in by the middle with 1/2 of strands pointing towards the rear of the hook, the other 1/2 of the strands pointing forward, then folded back and bound down with thread wraps.
Tail | Kraft Fur (tan used here) about the same length as the hook. The tail will be propped upright with thread wraps. After the fly is complete the tail will be barred with permanent marker
Antennae | optional- 2 long strands of dark Krystal Flash tied in at the middle on top of shank and bound down with thread wraps so they extend along each
Legs | Grizzly hackle tied in at rear and palmered over body. The hackle will be given a haircut buy trimming top and sides after fly is completed
Overbody | Clear V - Rib or clear monofilament around 12lb test or so. In addition to providing a bit of translucence, the overbody helps protect the tinsel body which is a bit fragile
Body| Fluff from Kraft Fur removed from base of material cut for tail
Single Prong Weedguard | 12 or 15 lb test Hard Mason monofilament or similar- a weed guard is essential on this fly to keep it from getting fouled with grass
Head | Thread covered in several coats of head cement
Special tying notes | An easy fly to tie
Materials
Standard length saltwater hook, size 1/0-8 (usually sizes 2-6).... a length of beadchain...... 15 lb Mason Hard Monofilament to form single prong weed guard..... a pair of pliers to cut beadchain into pairs for eyes and to flatten a short section of Hard Mono before tying in....... thread..... strung grizzly saddle hackle..... tan Kraft Fur for tail.... optional packs of Krystal flash for highlights and antennae not shown here |
Start your thread at the 2/3 point on the shank |
Invert hook |
Tie in bead chain or dumbbell eyes on the top of the inverted hook shank-- unlike a Clouser or many bonefish flies, this pattern is designed to ride hook point down |
Flip hook in vise. Wind thread towards rear of hook. Tie in a bunch of Krystal Flash for the tail on top of shank directly over barb. Yellow Krystal Flash used here |
Select a bunch of Kraft Fur for tail and cut from backing. Pull the fuzz from the bottom of the Kraft Fur and do not discard-- this will be used to dub the body |
Measure the Kraft Fur against the hook-- The tail when tied in should extend from the rear of the hook approximately one hook length (as measured from in front of eye to end of bend) |
Bind the Kraft fur down on the shank directly above the barb point |
It nmay be necessary to repeat the last step with another hunk of Kraft Fur especially on larger hooks. If so, tie in a another hunk of Kraft fur-- it is better to tie in several individual smaller hanks than trying to tie in one thick one. |
Work your way forward with thread wraps to just behind the eyes to bind down the butt ends of the Kraft Fur to form a smooth under body |
Work the thread back to rear of fly. If you want antennae, tie in 2 strands of dark colored Krystal Flash by the middle and stream each half of the doubled strands along each side of the tail and bind down-- you should end up with 2 antennae on each side. Lift the Kraft Fur up and take several wraps of thread around the bare shank directly behind the tail. This will help prop the tail up a bit to reduce fouling |
Select a grizzly hackle and remove fluff from base of stem. Tie in the grizzly hackle by the base of the feather leaving approximately a 1/4" of bare stem to avoid trapping any barbs in the first turn of hackle. The bright side of the feather should be facing forward so that the barbs will slant rearward when the feather is wrapped. In this pic, the dull underside of the feather is facing toward the camera so it will be facing rearward when wrapped.|
Bind remainder of feather stem down with thread wraps to behind eyes. Trim excess stem and return thread to rear of hook with wraps to make smooth underbody for dubbing. Dub 2" of thread using the fluff of Kraft Fur you saved from the hunk cut for the tail. If you have difficulty dubbing the Kraft Fur fluff, some saliva, dubbing wax, or drawing the thread through the side of a candle might help. Keep the dubbing sparse when you apply it to the thread, you don't want a thick noodle. |
Take tight turns forward with the dubbed thread-- add more dubbing as needed, until you reach just behind the eyes and let thread bobbin hang here |
Palmer hackle forward by wrapping in open turns over the dubbed body to waiting thread and tie off. Note tip of feather extending to bottom right. This will need to be trimmed before proceeding to the next step |
After clipping off excess hackle tip, figure 8 wrap between behind and in front of eyes with dubbed thread |
Form smooth thread base for attachment of mono weedguard. Cut a short length of 12-20 lb Mason Hard Monofilament and crimp it with pliers to flatten the mono near one end of the short piece-- this will make it easier to attach with thread wraps. |
Build a thread dam behind the mono to prop it straight up and cut mono to a length so it sticks straight up just a bit taller than hook point. Whip finish and tie off, the tying part is complete. Flip hook in vise and trim off top and sides of hackle |
Remove fly from vise and lay flat on cardboard to mark tail and top of body with bands of a permanent marker-- brown and olive used here. Put back in vise or block of styrofoam etc and coat with several coats of head cement |
Target species | Bonefish, redfish and other saltwater fish that feed on shrimp near the bottom
Fishing notes | An easy to tie shrimp pattern that can be tied in various sizes and colors to match local shrimp and bottom colors. It can be weighted with beadchain for shallow flats or dumbell eyes for deeper water. A good imitation for common and snapping shrimp on sandy flats, mangrove flats and weed beds.
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