What do I really need in a fly reel?

[medic29358]

Hello all,

I'm new here and to the sport of fly fishing and need a little advice. I'm looking at picking up my first fly reel and am a little overwhelmed with all of the "technology" that goes into some of these reels.

What I'm really looking for is a reliable trout reel for my 5wt rod. I doesn't seem like I need super strong drag, so I think I've decided on a click/pawl reel. When it comes down to it, is there really a difference between a $99 and a $300 reel. Or will any reel to the trick? It seems the rod is where I should spend a little more. I am taking into consideration made in the USA vs. overseas. Sure I'd like to buy an Able, but that's a lot to shell out right now.

 

[ultralightidaho]

Buy a Lamson Konic and you're done. Easily one of the best values on the market.

 

[fly505]

I am by far no expert but when I was shopping around for a reel for my 5wt I wanted something that was durable and reliable. Plain and simple. I didn't need a ton of drag but something that could slow a larger fish I was not intentionally intending to target. I use my 5wt mostly for trout but occasionally will hook into some large bass and carp and am glad I had some drag when I needed it. A good drag can be overkill on small streams and rivers, but is rather be over-gunned than under for sure, you never know what you will get on the other end sometimes. As far as good budget minded trout reels go, can't go wrong with a Lamson Konic or even Guru (depending on budget limit), I've also heard good things about Allen reels particularly the Trout II. Again, lots of options out there. I myself like machined (Guru), drag and low maintence... hence the Lamson recommendation. Hope this helps

 

[jcw355]

............

 

[medic29358]

I've seen the Lamson reels in a few fly shops and they looked like potentials. Had never heard of Allen. Just checked them out online and they look really nice. What fly505 said makes sense, never considered hooking into the potential big fish. I'll be happy with what ever grabs my line Thanks so far for the help, any more advise will be much appreciated.

jcw355, what was your experience with the Orvis reel?

 

[mikel]

Sure I'd like to buy an Able, but that's a lot to shell out right now.

Large arbor or small?

what amount do you anticipate spending? If you're looking at 50 bucks, the Okuma SLV is awesome. For just over $100 you can get an Orvis BBS III. There are MANY CHOICES but you can narrow them by deciding your own criteria.

You could also read the 3,579 threads about this same question in the "reels" forum

 

[Rip Tide]

With a light trout reel, you're not looking for a drag that will stop a truck. You only need to set the drag strong enough to prevent backlash.
What's important is that the reel "starts up" smoothly without any jerking to protect the tippet.

I use "primitive" drags on all my fresh water reels. Spring/pawl and the Medalist type brakes.
If you've got them set right... it's all you need.

This is the reel that I've been using this week :thumbsup:

 

[medic29358]

As for as arbor size, I don't know? From what I understand the large arbor just help reel the fish in faster, if i'm correct? Is one better than the other, or is it just personal preference. This is where all the technology starts to confuse the uneducated. I've looked through the forums and I think I got more confused. Thanks for the help anyway...

 

[fly505]

As far as arbor size I prefer large...yes it picks up line faster but also puts less "line-memory" on your fly line. But with greater diameter arbor, more torque is put on the reel thus necessatating a stronger drag. Like one of the previous posters stated, start up intertia is one of the more intrigal aspects of any good trout reel if you were ever to fight a fish off the reel...any sudden jerky or sticking of the drag will definitely pop a fish off no matter how good your knots are, meant to protect light tipets. Again, you can get away with a click and pawl type reel especially if all you fish for are small trout and what not...but it's nice to have something that can contend with the big boys if needed...especially in a 5wt. Lamson has a number of videos you can watch on YouTube or their site itself, very informative...they definitely stand behind their prouducts.

 

[chased]

I'm going to side with Rip Tide here. For a 5wt and trout in general, you really don't need a "Stop a freight train" drag system. A simple click & pawl reel is fine. The Cortland Retro and Hardy Lightweight series of reels come to mind. If you are going to be getting into a lot of bigger fish like tail water trout, carp, pike, wiper, etc..Then you may want to look into a reel with a good disk drag and a large arbor. The large arbor spool basically has a larger circumference so it will pick up line a lot faster. If a 20lb carp takes you into the backing, you are going to want to pick up the slack line in a hurry, that is where a large arbor comes into play.

Chase

 

[itchmesir]

Get yourself an Okuma Sierra off the auction site for $30~ and be set. No reason to even think about a higher priced reel.

 

[badfish creek]

I would buy Okuma's SLV's all day long. They have a great drag that can stop trains if needed, look great and you can get them for $50 bucks or less! If anyone says a $300 reel is better I dare them to prove it!

 

[caseywise]

the allen ats reel at 99 bucks is hard to beat/
fully machined, smooth drag and an awesome
lifetime warranty.
the guys at allen do it right:thumbsup:
ATS Reel Series - Allen Fly Fishing Store

casey

 

[aggieoutlaw]

Cabelas Wind River is $20. Good reel.

 

[rockthief]

THe Okuma SLV is the reel I would use if I wanted a very good reel that was quality and reasonably priced. It is a winner. I know a guy uses them to catch big steelhead.
However, I am a lover of beauty and certain fly reels make my knees weak. The only thing I love more is my dearest wife who always makes my knees weak.
Get the SLV. It's a really good reel.
Paul

 

[ts47]

Can I piggyback off this thread with a related question and ask how important a sealed drag is versus one that isn't sealed? For example: the Ross Flyrise versus the Lamson Konic? The reels would be for a 4wt and 5wt rods.

 

[MoscaPescador]

What I'm really looking for is a reliable trout reel for my 5wt rod. I doesn't seem like I need super strong drag, so I think I've decided on a click/pawl reel. When it comes down to it, is there really a difference between a $99 and a $300 reel. Or will any reel to the trick? It seems the rod is where I should spend a little more. I am taking into consideration made in the USA vs. overseas. Sure I'd like to buy an Able, but that's a lot to shell out right now.

Instead of giving you a long and drawn out response, I will narrow my answer to four points.

1. Look at the machining. Are the tolerances tight? Does the spool wobble when it spins?
2. How important is the finish to you. You really want something that is going to last.
3. Drag system? Do you really need a disk drag? Regardless, you need something that is smooth starting. If you are going to have a long drawn out fight with Homie on a regular basis, you may want a disk drag.
4. Is made in USA really important to you? Will an offshore made reel do the job?

Good luck with your search.

Dennis

 

[jaybo41]

Can I piggyback off this thread with a related question and ask how important a sealed drag is versus one that isn't sealed? For example: the Ross Flyrise versus the Lamson Konic? The reels would be for a 4wt and 5wt rods.

Where I sit is that multiple factors are in play:

1. Owner serviceability or Manufacturer serviceability
2. Maintenance or little to no maintenance.
3. Price/budget
4. Reel and specifically drag design
5. Manufacturer warranty.

I've come to appreciate reels that I can service myself--not saying this is right for everyone. Replacing springs/pawls or getting another cork drag plate are a convenience as opposed to sending a reel back for service and or replacement. This can often be done in the field if parts are on hand or possibly by going to a local fly shop. Some reels I own there is little more that I can do but to send them back for service and that's OK too because the manufacturers I've chosen offer repair/service. Replacement is OK too but if you're on a trip and aren't don't have a backup reel to use this could be a problem.

Of the two you mentioned, I know that my local shop who carries Lamson recommends them because they're pretty well serviceable in a fly shop. I've seen guys bring their Lamsons in and they replaced the bearing within a few minutes.

 

[fredaevans]

With a light trout reel, you're not looking for a drag that will stop a truck. You only need to set the drag strong enough to prevent backlash.
What's important is that the reel "starts up" smoothly without any jerking to protect the tippet.

I use "primitive" drags on all my fresh water reels. Spring/pawl and the Medalist type brakes.
If you've got them set right... it's all you need.

This is the reel that I've been using this week :thumbsup:

So yes! Old (and I do mean OLD) addage is you set your drag for half the break strength of your tippet. Point being is the line going through the guides adds a hell of a lot more.

This is really true with 2handers. One of the reasons guys can use dragless reels like the Hardy's. They can be knuckle busters with a hot fish, but that can be more than half the fun.

 

[ts47]

Where I sit is that multiple factors are in play:

1. Owner serviceability or Manufacturer serviceability
2. Maintenance or little to no maintenance.
3. Price/budget
4. Reel and specifically drag design
5. Manufacturer warranty.

I've come to appreciate reels that I can service myself--not saying this is right for everyone. Replacing springs/pawls or getting another cork drag plate are a convenience as opposed to sending a reel back for service and or replacement. This can often be done in the field if parts are on hand or possibly by going to a local fly shop. Some reels I own there is little more that I can do but to send them back for service and that's OK too because the manufacturers I've chosen offer repair/service. Replacement is OK too but if you're on a trip and aren't don't have a backup reel to use this could be a problem.

Of the two you mentioned, I know that my local shop who carries Lamson recommends them because they're pretty well serviceable in a fly shop. I've seen guys bring their Lamsons in and they replaced the bearing within a few minutes.

My situation is this. I just ordered a pair of rods/reels (4 & 5 wt). The reel I ordered was the Ross Flyrise. When I received it, I realized they were not sealed drags and they seem to have a fair amount of plastic. While the plastic may not be that big a deal, the open drag concerns me. Had I realized this up front, I likely would have ordered the Lamson Konic II. I may even go for the Lamson Guru for the 5wt. They both have a sealed drag. I can exchange the reels. So, I'm trying to decide if the sealed drag is worth the hassle of return shipping and waiting to get them back. I do use my gear. I have set them down, not in the mud, but on a soft or sandy shoreline, do let them get wet and/or dirty on occasion, but otherwise take care of my gear. Any thoughts would be appreciated.