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  1. #11

    Default Re: 8wt. Reel Advice

    One thing I like on a saltwater (or any reel for that matter) is a captive threaded spool release
    That's a good point and a selling point for the Hatch over the Galvan.

    many reels have much stronger drags than angling circumstances are likely to call for.
    From what I have read the drag on the Galvan T8 should be plenty sufficient for Reds/Specks & Bones.

    For 2-3 max trips a year I may still be leaning to the Galvan.

  2. #12

    Default Re: 8wt. Reel Advice

    Based on my finite experience, I think the Galvan is a fine reel. Its direct competitors would not include Hatch but rather Hardy Ultralite DD and Nautilus FWX.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    south florida
    Posts
    2,152

    Default Re: 8wt. Reel Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Sweetandsalt
    though I am sure someone has done it, I have yet to see a deformed reel foot
    I assume you mean someone besides me. Perhags you have been lucky or others have just been unlucky. I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who's dropped a heavy reel and bent one.

    In fact, reel feet consist of the third, fourth and fifth items on Tibor's online parts store behind only two different model end caps, and well ahead of various screws, springs and clutch dogs.

    Unfortunalely, most reel manufacturers don't have online parts, but I'd bet money all of them carry reel feet.

    Just sayin...
    http://www.miterclamp.com/Images/N_Amer_FF.jpg Cheers, Jim

  4. #14

    Default Re: 8wt. Reel Advice

    wjc, are you saying you have specifically bent a Hatch reel foot? How did they handle this problem? Can't say it can't happen of course and I am clumsier than I used to be. I really try to be careful mounting reels to reel seats and am conscious of the surface over which I am doing...just in case.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    south florida
    Posts
    2,152

    Default Re: 8wt. Reel Advice

    No, as I said, I bent a Tibor foot. But there is no difference to speak of in reel feet - they all have to fit into the same reel seat and are all thin on the ends.

    The heavier the reel the better chance to bend it where it won't fit into the reel seat when dropped on tile or concrete, and bending it back requires some finess and filing - removing the anodizing. And it never fits the way it used to either.

    For me, having bent one already, it's not a selling point to have it a part of the reel frame. The Tibor reel feet are currently $32.00 and I can order one myself, and not be without a reel at all since it is usable as it is.
    Last edited by wjc; 07-28-2013 at 07:49 AM.
    http://www.miterclamp.com/Images/N_Amer_FF.jpg Cheers, Jim

  6. #16

    Default Re: 8wt. Reel Advice

    Your point is well taken and a fly shop owner has expressed this same concern to me about Hatch...I am just curious and a little concerned about how Hatch WOULD repair a deformed reel foot. We have a Korean-built reel that suffered a broken foot and the screws were seized up and I stripped them trying to remove them! Had to cut the foot off with a hack saw and remove the screws with a lock wrench but the brand distributor sent us a replacement foot for no charge. I consider the machined as one Hatch reel foot a reliability and rigidity advantage...and will until I bend one! I see Ross has emulated this feature on their F1 too.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    south florida
    Posts
    2,152

    Default Re: 8wt. Reel Advice

    Sweet,

    I don't know what they'd do at Hatch, since a bent up reel foot would not be a factory defect. I'd only surmise that they would sell you a new frame. Either that or mill off the integrated one and put on a conventional one with machine screws.

    I would probably just do that myself since I have the equipment to do it.

    As for screws freezing solid, That can be a big problem in the salt. I have had to mill them out using micro sized center cutting end mills on a vertical milling machine on both Ross and Hardy reels. There is no way it could have been done with a drill press.

    Part of the problem is the fine metric threads, another is the use of phillips instead of slotted screws. Probably a dab of fingernail polish on the screw threads during assembly, or a number of loctite products would have solved the problem, however.

    The best way to remove frozen screws after soaking with PB Blaster is to back it with something solid and rap the appropriate screwdriver (or better, an impact driver) with a light hammer pretty hard. If an impact driver, have it set to tighten not loosen. Then re-set the driver to loosen and rap it again.

    One thing that baffles me about the Nautilus NV is that they tout ceramic bearings in that reel. However, since those bearings are contained within the "completely waterproofed" sealed drag unit, why should they be necessary?

    A year ago, I'd have said that the Mako was the best bargin of all the high end reels on the market, and waa going to buy one when I had the money for wade/surf fishing (which I hope to start doing more of). About a week before I made my decision they jumped their prices 4 or 500 bucks - and there is still a waiting list of 2-3 months to get one.

    For boat fishing, sealed drags lose their importance, in my opinion, and make it far harder and way more costly to come up with good drags without eating up considerable spool capacity and winding up with gigantic reels.
    http://www.miterclamp.com/Images/N_Amer_FF.jpg Cheers, Jim

  8. Default Re: 8wt. Reel Advice

    I own both the Hatch 11 Plus and the Ross F1. I love the idea of the integrated reel seat personally, just for the study build and piece of mind. I'm quite confident that Ross would fix it no questions ask or fee knowing how they are with repairs. However, Hatch will attempt the repair, and worst case scenario, replace the entire frame. Both of which would be on the your dime.

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