2015 5-weight Fly Reel Shootout & Review

[silver creek]

I don't know if this has been posted yet so I am posting it. Apologies if this is a repeat.

We are often asked what reel to match with a 5 weight rod or what 5 wt reel to buy. The result is a scattering of various reels which has limited usefulness in my opinion.

At least what follows is a consistent way of measuring the current reels for 5 wt fly lines.

2015 5-weight Fly Reel Shootout & Review: What's the Best Trout Reel? / Trident Fly Fishing

The overall ranking is below:

The chart below is the raw data. What I pay attention to is the drag startup inertia. It represents the extra force that is required to start the drag.

As an example, if you set the drag at 4 lbs and the start up inertia is 50%, that reel requires 6 lbs of force to get the drag to slip. So a high start up inertia means you need to set the drag lower to protect the tippet.

Combine the two charts and do you see what I see?

I see the Orvis Access Midarbor at $155 in 7th postion out of 25 reels and I see a negligible start up inertia. If I was looking to buy an inexpensive 5 wt reel that has a good drag, it would be the Orvis Access Midarbor.

What reel would I not buy? An Abel Super 4N at $500 with a 44% startup inertia. What reel is rated in last place. Surprise (NOT), it is the Abel Super 4N.

 

[rockriver]

A lot of great info there.

 

[sweetandsalt]

Silver, Here are my comments on this comparison test from when Trident first published its link back in early February of this year (search this Fly reel Forum):



Default Re: 2015 5-weight Reel Shootout

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Well I do enjoy tackle shootouts and the reviewers here provided us with their criteria clearly in this 5-Weight Reel Shootout. Further, I have no personal ax to grind and two of my preferred trout reels, Nautilus FWX and Galvan Torque are tied for third place. The Trident reviewers tend to concur with my opinion that too wide and shallow a spool is counter intuitive to uniform line retrieval and, I'll add, even fish loosingingly problematic should the line jam a pillar. Yet, based on its very light weight, smooth drag and long handle they placed Lamson's Litespeed II in 1st place! I would have disqualified it for its awful spool design! Lots of these reels, even off-shore Orvis models, have good drags with low inertial start-up and good handles. So handle design and probably more drag headroom than is necessary on a 5-weight reel trumps aspect ratio? This throws the entire shootout ratings, otherwise full of useful data, into disturbingly questionable turmoil.

By all means, read and enjoy this article but allow me to provide a counterpoint as to data interpretation. Yes, low inertial startup and smooth, linear drag performance is important. However, when fishing for trout with a 5-weight outfit it is exceedingly rare to set your drag as heavy as two pounds. Four much less seven pounds of setting headroom is for show in a trout reel and usually a function of the reel maker using the same drag assembly in their 5-weight as in their 8-weight reel. The capacity of the reel, a 5-weight line plus a minimum of 75 yards of backing, I prefer 100 yards, is a function of how and where the rig will be fished. The actual physical weight of the reel is important because it is what is used to neutrally balance the rod the reel is to be paired with. For example, my 9'/#4 NRX, a great rod I love to fish but not the lightest in its class, requires a Galvan Torque T-6 to properly balance it and my lighter Sage ONE#5 requires a Nautilus FWX 7/8 for correct horizontal balance! Many reels are too light for proper balance leading too reduced durability and dreaded flexing. So low weight is not always an advantageous aspect of reel design...the rod's requirements comes first. Other than the draw-bar Abel in last place which requires disassembly to remove the spool, most reels come with an easy on - easy off spool design. Be aware that those that use "O" rings, spring loaded push buttons or levers have the potential to fail while those incorporating threaded, captive, locking caps have no parts to fail or loose. I like a handle and drag knob with some beef to them but avoid handles that taper inward as they have the potential to entrap wayward slack line as can a protruding counterbalance...perhaps more of a saltwater issue but be aware never-the-less. And lastly (though no doubt I am overlooking something which one of you, my fellow Forum contributors will add), the all important issue of aspect ratio. A larger diameter spool and arbor with a narrow width can have the capacity + of a wider, shallower smaller diameter spool and, as in the case of the Hardy U DD, feature exemplary line retrieval rate with intuitive uniformity of backing and line being wound back onto the spool. This is a big difference between contemporary and standard arbor classic reels along with drag assemblies. Maximized line retrieval rates are important when fishing for high acceleration species like bonefish or little tunas, but also worthwhile for the big river trout angler plying the Delaware or Missouri Rivers for example. However, even mid-arbor designs offer speed advantages over trout reels of yesteryear and many don't fish waters where large amounts of backing are ripped off reels on a regular basis. The most important thing to avoid in any reel that will be subjected to larger, hard running fish is a wide spool...anything over an inch requires additional attention on the anglers behalf to level wind line back on. You should be paying attention to the fish rather than the reel.

There are so many reels with suitable drags to help bring a good trout to net more quickly thus increasing catch and release survival rates, with intelligent proportions, varied rod matching weights and divers aesthetics and price points that we all should all be able to select a reel optimal to our applications without settling for one with fundamental design shortcomings. I know many of you and presumably Trident as well will read this post along with the linked Shootout and I hope these comments help making a wise choice for the new reel we all must have prior to the approaching trout season.

akos75, timd, chi flyfisher and 6 others like this.
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[pszy22]

To be honest, I only skimmed over the report, the print size of the charts is too small for my old eyes anyway. I will say I appreciate the ambition and zeal shown by those folks in terms of generating and presenting data.

The one thing that did catch my failing old eyes (since it was at the very top of the page) -

Thousands, if not millions of trout have been caught on Pflueger Medalists and Hardy Perfects

Gee, you think so?

 

[golfnfish]

Interesting data but in my opinion the choice of a 5wt reel is about 99% personal preference and what strikes your fancy. I personally like the feel and looks of a high quality, well machined reel. That said, I think very few fisherman fish in such a manner that puts a lot of technical demands on a 5wt reel. I like to match reels with 5wt rods pretty much based on balance and asthetics, not much at all on high end performance.

Since 4 and 5wt rods are what I overwhelmingly fish the most, I have had a lot of reels in that weight class. Hatch Finatic 4+, Galvan Torques 4 and 5, Abel Creek 1 and 2, Orvis CFO IIIs, Hardy Perfects, Bougles, LRHs and probably a couple of others I haven't listed. These are both click and pawls and disc drag reels and I have never felt under gunned with any of them. I don't use 5wts for saltwater or I might feel differently.

As long as the reel is smooth and doesn't lock up or go into free spool during use I don't give a lot of thought to them. Maybe the best analogy is a watch. You can spend as much or as little as you want and most everyone will keep time accurately. I don't think I can remember ever losing a fish with my 5wts due to poor reel performance.

 

[txshane]

I've always preferred a 2wt to a 4 or 5wt for trout, even though most will recommend the 4 or 5wt. Most of the time, when trout fishing, I will be using a 5X or 6X tippet. A heavier rod makes it a lot easier to break a light tippet, especially if you don't put the fish on the reel or if you do, but your reel doesn't have a smooth drag. In the days of click and pawl drags and even cork disc drags, I got tired of breaking off fish, so I went to a 2wt to match the rod to the tippet rather than trying to match my rod to the largest fish in the stream. My ratio of fish landed to fish hooked went up, and I found that I didn't have any trouble landing the bigger fish on the 2wt either.

I think some of the newer reels with drag systems that are smoother and have less start-up inertia would help when using a 5wt with a really light tippet. I doubt I'll give up my 2wt for trout anyway - it's just too much fun. But if you are using a light tippet on a 5wt, I think the quality of the drag system is important - very similar to a 2X or 3X tippet on an 8wt in saltwater.

 

[rfb700]

I think most people's reaction to these shootouts depends on whether they have a dog in the fight. If they rank your reel highly, it's a valid shootout. Low and they don't know what they are talking about.

All of the reels listed are decent for a 5 weight.

 

[txshane]

I think most people's reaction to these shootouts depends on whether they have a dog in the fight. If they rank your reel highly, it's a valid shootout. Low and they don't know what they are talking about.

All of the reels listed are decent for a 5 weight.

Probably some truth to that. It's human nature.

One thing to note about the scorecard is that the reel at the bottom of the list scored 105, and it's a really nice reel - Abel. 105 is a lot more than 0.

They're all good reels. Some are probably a little bit better than others, but they're all nice.

 

[richarde206]

Let's put a couple of things in perspective:

According to the IGFA (International Game Fish Association), here are the top 5 fly reel makeers used in world records, and how many records for each:

1. Abel - 56

2. Tibor - 50

3 (Tie) Orvis - 10

3. (Tie) Ross - 10


I won't even the list the rest as there is such a huge disparity between the top two and the balance of the list.

I'm not here to bash the Trident Fly Fishing results, the approach, or the importance/values placed on certain reel characteristics or attributes; it's nice that they went through all the effort to put the tests together. In my experience a properly and well-lubricated cork drag can be smooth as butter. I do know if I were going on a trip where I wanted to know that my reel would work, no matter what, I sure as heck wouldn't be taking a Lamson Litespeed, and I sure as heck would be taking an Abel, Tibor, Galvan, or something similar to their durability. I like my stuff to work. I just returned from Mexico with a guide's Litespeed that won't work because the 'sealed' drag isn't really sealed and the salt has frozen it up. I've seen other 'sealed' drags from other makers be not so 'sealed'. Yep, I know Lamson has tried to address the issue with stainless innards, etc., but the importance of some of the reel characteristics in these tests, say this sealed drag issue, is way overblown, in my opinion, and the functionality, durability, and reliability has been lost.

This is from a guy who has or has had Lamson, Waterworks, Orvis, Ross, Hardy, TFO, Cortland, Scientific Anglers, Loop, Tibor, Sage, Abel, Danielsson, Bauer, Galvan, Redington, St. Croix, Albright, LL Bean, Old Florida, Cabela's, Bass Pro, STH, etc.

 

[Sage & Abel]

I've been a long time Abel supporter and I again will comment on the last place finish of my beloved "dog in this fight". I fish exclusively with Abel reels for trout with few exceptions. I've never had a tippet break fishing down to 7x on 9' 5 weight fast action rods as a result of my reel's start up inertia. Further, for my dollar, the Super 4 or Super 5N is a much more appropriate 5 weight reel. Not the Super 4N.

 

[eastfly66]

Allen Kraken III on my 7 wt. , 30 something steelhead over 3.5 days and not a single hiccup. I am pretty comfortable the Kraken II I have on my 5 weights will do the job when called. Nice looking to boot and I did enjoy Trident's report.

 

[oldskewl808]

Yes, I have landed many Bonefish on both the Kraken III, and the Kraken II. They can handle!

---------- Post added at 05:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:47 PM ----------

Let's put a couple of things in perspective:



According to the IGFA (International Game Fish Association), here are the top 5 fly reel makeers used in world records, and how many records for each:



1. Abel - 56



2. Tibor - 50



3 (Tie) Orvis - 10



3. (Tie) Ross - 10





I won't even the list the rest as there is such a huge disparity between the top two and the balance of the list.



I'm not here to bash the Trident Fly Fishing results, the approach, or the importance/values placed on certain reel characteristics or attributes; it's nice that they went through all the effort to put the tests together. In my experience a properly and well-lubricated cork drag can be smooth as butter. I do know if I were going on a trip where I wanted to know that my reel would work, no matter what, I sure as heck wouldn't be taking a Lamson Litespeed, and I sure as heck would be taking an Abel, Tibor, Galvan, or something similar to their durability. I like my stuff to work. I just returned from Mexico with a guide's Litespeed that won't work because the 'sealed' drag isn't really sealed and the salt has frozen it up. I've seen other 'sealed' drags from other makers be not so 'sealed'. Yep, I know Lamson has tried to address the issue with stainless innards, etc., but the importance of some of the reel characteristics in these tests, say this sealed drag issue, is way overblown, in my opinion, and the functionality, durability, and reliability has been lost.



This is from a guy who has or has had Lamson, Waterworks, Orvis, Ross, Hardy, TFO, Cortland, Scientific Anglers, Loop, Tibor, Sage, Abel, Danielsson, Bauer, Galvan, Redington, St. Croix, Albright, LL Bean, Old Florida, Cabela's, Bass Pro, STH, etc.

It's strange for me to read this as I have Hundreds of hours of saltwater duty on my Litespeed without any sort of trouble whatsoever. Plenty of big Hawaiian Bonefish have tested the drag, and it has not failed.

 

[eastfly66]

It's strange for me to read this as I have Hundreds of hours of saltwater duty on my Litespeed without any sort of trouble whatsoever. Plenty of big Hawaiian Bonefish have tested the drag, and it has not failed.

......and probably never will.

 

[czando]

Yeah this particular test is flawed in many ways. First as pointed out nicely most reels are too light and the super light reels are a marketing gimmick. I fish an Abel 5N on a Scott Radian 5 and it works perfectly and balances with a rod length of line out exactly an inch or so from the end of the grip. To have the Abel SD so far down is a joke, if anyone has seen this new reel it is the gold standard now.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[rfb700]

Abel is like Apple computer. People hype the brand whether it deserves it or not. Give the SD some time on the water before we declare it the second coming.

 

[sweetandsalt]

It is hard to evaluate reels based on trout fishing sizes where performance and reliability are rarely tested to the limit. Like trickle down technology from racing to street cars; saltwater capable reels inform their makers about traits to incorporate into smaller freshwater sizes. Like the concept or not "sealed drags" are here to stay and even vaunted Abel (a far better designed and engineered product than anything Apple has come up with expect in term of profitability) has launched it "SD" series. Reels makers like Hatch, Nautilus and now too Allan with their new Omega, will slowly see their share of World Records climb and some day approach the big boys of the cork draw-bar design...which remain eminently viable. Despite OldSkeewel's success in Hawaii, he is clearly very knowledgeable, experienced and know doubt knows how to handle and care for his gear, many reels I would not consider saltwater appropriate have caught many big fish. If you can see and even touch the clutch bearing the reel is not sealed. Period. I have seen numerous Lamson Juncksters fail to live up to saltwater standards due to salt in the drag cavity, even rust it looks like!, the too wide and shallow aspect ratio yielding jamming against a pillar when inadequate attention was paid to level winding during a battle or simply too flexible construction and poor spool removal design has allowed the spool to simply pop off!...yet this is the first place finisher in the "comparison" test. Dog in the hunt indeed!

There are more reel brands and designs than ever and in trout fishing aesthetics paly a significant roll in choice. Besides proper balance and capacity, if you desire performance in your freshwater tackle because you fish rivers like the Delaware or Missouri for example; you don't need a retailers comparison test...just take a gander at the handful of designs regularly deployed on bonefish camp rod racks and buy one of their scaled down little brothers.

 

[mtbusman]

Interesting discussion. A few observations.

1. Your results may vary.

I notice that for each reel critiqued in this brief discussion, someone else spoke up to support it. Someone may have a certain reel freeze up after saltwater use, while someone else uses it for years without issues.

2. Mind the Operator!

Some people use reels deemed inferior to great success, because of the way they fish. In other words, the person who operates the reel is perhaps more important than the reel itself. I do a lot of trout fishing in the fall, winter, and spring on the Missouri River in Montana, using a Ross Evolution. I read on the shootout that it scores lower than others, mostly due to its drag. The drag is deemed less powerful, with a higher startup inertia, to boot. (I have to say, I've caught some nice trout, some hard fighting ones, some in current, and the Evo drag has always come through -- until I wore one out after 11 years of use.) The tests may be right regarding the start up inertia -- I think that, over the years, I may have lost a few trout who got off almost immediately upon hook up, due to the higher drag start up inertia. But at the time, I blamed it on me the operator. You see, I usually keep my drag a little loose for those fish, and then, when the opening round is over and the trout has slowed a bit, I increase the drag. (After all, that's why we have such lovely, large, centrally located drag knobs, nowadays, isn't it?) This technique works great for me -- I just have to remember to do it. I think it's very rare that a reel lost a fish I hooked. Usually, it's me. On another note, I can think of a forum member who lands heavy fish in Alaska on classic click and pawl reels -- yup, the operator is important.

3. Reducing the risk.
This is where we praise those reels with low drag start up inertia. If the operator is susceptible to inattentiveness, inexperience, or just plain stupid mistakes, it's great that a reel can reduce the need to be at the top of your game. If landing a fish is a downright necessity, and the operator is fallible, then one of the top scoring reels with a bullet proof drag, low start up inertia, a high retrieval rate, and fail safe systems that do not need maintenance or proper care -- is probably the best choice.

4. Asthetics matter.
Yes, one of the reasons I like my evolution is its appearance. It's the same reason I don't like the Litespeed. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, of course, and your results may vary.

5. Fish with what you like.
No shootout is going to determine what rod or reel I use. I read them like everyone else, and then I have fun critiquing the critics. In the end, we fly fish for many reasons -- solitude, companionship, beauty, connection with nature, challenge, adventure, or the feeling you get when you catch a fish. In the end, it's mostly about having fun. If folks like their Abel Supers, I'm not going to tell them not to. Just remember to fish and have fun.

However, all that being said, if you see a bunch of low mileage Evolution LTs turning up for sale or auction in the next year, it could be that I've decided to go with Galvan. The Torque comes in green, too.

---------- Post added at 11:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:32 PM ----------

The actual physical weight of the reel is important because it is what is used to neutrally balance the rod the reel is to be paired with. For example, my 9'/#4 NRX, a great rod I love to fish but not the lightest in its class, requires a Galvan Torque T-6 to properly balance it and my lighter Sage ONE#5 requires a Nautilus FWX 7/8 for correct horizontal balance! Many reels are too light for proper balance leading too reduced durability and dreaded flexing. So low weight is not always an advantageous aspect of reel design...the rod's requirements comes first.

S&S, I agree with you about the importance of the weight of a reel balancing the rod. From your examples, it would seem that you are looking for more reel weight than I have been. Question, where is the fulcrum point when you are determining what balances and what doesn't? I have been placing it at the index finger of my hand when it is in its natural place on the grip. Some of my rods are just a little top heavy when I do this, but the balance is still close.

 

[sweetandsalt]

Yes, the fulcrum point is the point on the grip where your forefinger encircles it in your natural casting hand position. I would ere on a hair heavy at the reel end rather than the tip of the rod end but elusive "perfect" is always nice.

Admitting "user error" in reel selection, tackle use or anything angling is rather unusual. Fishing with a guide I commented, "Oops, I have to repair my tippet, I have a casting knot". He laughed and said, "Everybody calls them "wind knots" even when there is no wind".

 

[biggie_robs]

In other words, the person who operates the reel is perhaps more important than the reel itself.

Oh my god, yes!

 

[rfb700]

We're talking about 5 weight trout reels right? Surprisingly I have never had a problem with salt while fishing freshwater rivers and streams.

As I stated, about any reel on the list works for those applications.

Personally, I don't think I need a scaled down big game reel to fish trout, even big ones. You can't convince me that I need a reel designed like a tank with a drag that will stop a rampaging rhino. I've fished a few tibor and Abel and they are nice, but not any more effective than any of the other reels on the list.

For any reel I buy from the recognized companies, at the end of the day the deciding factor is, do I think it looks cool.