Straight vs "Convex" V vs "Concave" U shaped spools

[bobtheflounder]

Hi I am building a fly reel and I was wondering what your guys' thoughts were on spool shape and how it affects line stacking. I always thought spool shape didn't matter (for winding on line) until a couple of weeks ago when I was using a V shaped spool reel and I had to reel in around 100 yards of backing and I found that it was actually more difficult than a straight spool! The backing kept sliding down the v and getting under other layers of backing, which was quite annoying. But that's just my experience and it could be my fault for not winding it tight enough/with even tension so I want to hear your opinion.

 

[sweetandsalt]

Your description does suggest too lose and uneven backing. Many reel designers are employing tapered spool shapes and I have a few but have not said "wow, this is easier!" but no complaints either. The main factor in my experience is spool width to depth ratio, any width greater than 1" tends to retard ease of intuitive uniformity of line retrieval.

 

[bobtheflounder]

Your description does suggest too lose and uneven backing. Many reel designers are employing tapered spool shapes and I have a few but have not said "wow, this is easier!" but no complaints either. The main factor in my experience is spool width to depth ratio, any width greater than 1" tends to retard ease of intuitive uniformity of line retrieval.

When I was winding the line never got slack but I was winding it on with around 5lbs of tension, just occasionally id go a couple lbs over and under that figure. I am making this reel for tuna (at least initially) so I want to make sure I get this aspect right, and at this point I am leaning towards the U, but there are two variations that I am trying to decide between. The first is basically a straight sided profile |_| but then is radiused to look like a U. The second is basically a U but the side walls never get to completely vertical but gradually taper out. I am not sure how well I am explaining this, so if you need a picture I can do that.

 

[bobtheflounder]

Honestly, I think I might just make both to see how they perform

 

[silver creek]

View attachment 12923View attachment 12924

Honestly, I think I might just make both to see how they perform

So you ask about Straight vs "Convex" V vs "Concave" U shaped spools. I assume the one on the right is the "Straight U." What is the one on the left?

Also, wouldn't the one on the right have the "U" portion of the spool filled with backing and essentially no spool edge slant left during spooling of the fly line. What the advantage there since we really see the backing out of the reel? Is it worth the extra spool mass and weight for that?

The way the spools are shown with the straight outside walls, both require extra spool mass for the slant. So the question for me is what am I gaining for using this heavier spool design? Or can you taper the outside of the spool to match the slant sp there is no extra mass?

 

[bobtheflounder]

So you ask about Straight vs "Convex" V vs "Concave" U shaped spools. I assume the one on the right is the "Straight U." What is the one on the left?

Also, wouldn't the one on the right have the "U" portion of the spool filled with backing and essentially no spool edge slant left during spooling of the fly line. What the advantage there since we really see the backing out of the reel? Is it worth the extra spool mass and weight for that?

The way the spools are shown with the straight outside walls, both require extra spool mass for the slant. So the question for me is what am I gaining for using this heavier spool design? Or can you taper the outside of the spool to match the slant sp there is no extra mass?

Hi silvercreek, I guess I wasn't clear in my original question so I will clarify. The U shaped spool is the one on the left and the one on the right is like you said, effectively a straight spool. And yes you can match the outside of the spool to the slant. My starting questions should have been convex spool wall vs concave vs straight. I already ruled out convex because the shape promotes a slightly tigher loop of backing on the edges of the spool to slip under a preceding layer, which is not good. With a concave spool, you don't have that effect but for every layer of line on the spool that you wind in, you have to increase the width that you have to level wind. At least that is what I think. Most of my reels are straight walled, and I only have had one (negative) experience with a V shaped spool.

I should also add that the models I posted are just to show the general shape, they can be made the same width, the curve can be less or more aggresive, etc

 

[Ard]

I'm all for level spool arbors here

 

[sweetandsalt]

flounder, I encourage you to go to the Ross site and look at the handle side biased, off-set U of the Evo R spool. Since tuna are your target you will be using multi filament gel spun backing which is a bit slippery and a design forcing line under high pressure downward is a good idea. Backing will be mounted under pressure so the spool needs to be rigid enough to not bow while ported enough to not be overly heavy. Capacity considerations will be a priority too. You are engaged in an interesting project, please keep us posted on developments.

 

[bobtheflounder]

flounder, I encourage you to go to the Ross site and look at the handle side biased, off-set U of the Evo R spool. Since tuna are your target you will be using multi filament gel spun backing which is a bit slippery and a design forcing line under high pressure downward is a good idea. Backing will be mounted under pressure so the spool needs to be rigid enough to not bow while ported enough to not be overly heavy. Capacity considerations will be a priority too. You are engaged in an interesting project, please keep us posted on developments.

Hi S&S, the offset U design of the Evo R is biased towards the handle side because of the way the spool attaches through the frame, in that it is only supported at the end of the drag hub, not along the length. The bias means that the load on the spool will be redirected to the handle side where there is more support, avoiding the spool from flexing. Other reels of a similar attachment design without this consideration have reports of spool flexing. In my current design the spool is supported along the length of the hub so the bias is uneeded. As to the backing slipping problem, I think a beadblasted finish and a rubber insert would probably solve the problem, as thats what has been done with spinning reel spools.

 

[sweetandsalt]

Do they use rubber or a more long life span polymer? Interesting. What type of spool attachment are you planning on? And, yes, any flex must be avoided.

 

[bonefish41]

What about Seigler's interesting spool design for their Blue water fly reel...I cannot comment on their fly reels but their conventional Large Game Narrow(LGN) was very efficient for my last trip to the Baja on Wahoo and Yellow Fin 20-40 lbs

 

[bonefish41]

The Seigler spool design perhaps is a variation of the Mako spool configuration...which is asymmetrical

 

[bobtheflounder]

The Seigler spool design perhaps is a variation of the Mako spool configuration...which is asymmetrical

I'm pretty sure the Mako spool configuration is biased on the same side as the Ross for the same reason as the Ross, which kind of makes sense given that the mayfly group owns the IP of Charlton reels which is the predecessor of the Mako. Additionally, it was probably also to make room for the drag package, at least on the lighter sizes. For the Seigler their spool bias is to the other side of the spool, nearer the frame side. This only works because the spool is fully supported by the main shaft.

 

[bonefish41]

Most of the time, I fish Abels for flats Permit Bonefish and Tarpon since they first made the 4N...with flat/no curve spools in my reels; However, never bluewater with fly reels...never had a problem with stacking backing...are you designing for flats or bluewater? Or why configure with spool curves?











The