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Thread: Let's Build a Rod Together

  1. #41
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    Quote Originally Posted by Auntie Em View Post
    Cliff,
    So as not to get a head of the learning that will be going on shortly ... I'll direct this to you. As in fly tying, and judging materials (quantities of), the general rule is to take out what you think you'll need, then put about half of it back!!! Same goes for epoxy. Only put about half of what you think you'll need on the blank and you'll have far less to remove when you're done!! Rubbing alcohol works great in cleaning up, too!
    Good advice, thanks. That was the only spot where it was glaringly obvious that I used too much, though the fully epoxied handles and seat did seem a bit heavy.

    I'm guessing the same applies to finish on thread wraps, but it seems like it might be kinda tricky to make sure you get enough on there so that everything's sufficiently covered on the first go. Any magical secrets on that?
    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1276302_n.jpg

    I'd rather hunt fish than bait deer any day.

  2. #42

    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    Quote Originally Posted by BigCliff View Post

    I'm guessing the same applies to finish on thread wraps, but it seems like it might be kinda tricky to make sure you get enough on there so that everything's sufficiently covered on the first go. Any magical secrets on that?
    Reel seat and grip epoxy is different than the thread epoxy. But I think you already know that. With thread epoxy mix up plenty. I'd rather throw excess out then have to rush to mix up some more. Heat up both bottles (if you use a two parter) in some hot water for a few minutes. Follow the directions on the bottles, usually equal parts. For an accurate mix they sell syringes made just for this application.
    Slowly mix it up with a plastic stir stick. Like 7-11 coffee stirrer's. You don't want any bubbles so s l o w l y stir. After a couple minutes of mixing, pour it onto some aluminum foil.
    One trick for beginners. When you put on thread epoxy, get some 3M Fine line masking tape. It's sold at automotive paint stores and its used to make flames on motorcycle tanks, cars etc. You can get it in 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" sizes. It won't let paint or epoxy bleed through. You tape up where you want the epoxy to start on each guide. Just a little bit before the thread. It's a personal thing, (but myself, I like the epoxy/varnish almost starting at the thread.) Put 2 or 3 wraps of tape on. Apply the epoxy with a small throwaway brush and start at the tape. Slowly rotate the rod with one hand and just brush it on. When the whole rod is done, take the tape of 10 to 15 minutes after you finish. That way it won't leave a hard line.
    I like one thin coat- one that covers the threads smoothly. I hate the fat football look. Then again it's personal preference. If you want to put another coat on, read the instructions on the bottle.
    Threadmaster and Threadmaster Lite is my favorite along with Perma Gloss (one part water thin epoxy), there is also Flex Coat and FC Lite. Diamondite, and others. I also use spar varnish. About 10 coats.
    This is spar varnish. Black Lamiglas blank with black thread and copper metallic trim.

    Life is not like a bowl of cherries. It's more like a jar of ghost peppers. What you eat today might burn your ass tomorrow...

  3. #43
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    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    Quote Originally Posted by mojo View Post
    (the I.D. of reel seats usually don't match the O.D. of the blank. So you need something to 'fill' in the gap. Usually masking tape or graphite arbors).
    When I can't make a graphite arbor work. i.e. the blank is close to the same ID as the seat, I use fiberglass drywall tape. It has spaces for the epoxy to get all the way to the blank, does not change properties over time and with moisture. Works very well.

    ---------- Post added at 05:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:34 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by mojo View Post
    I like one thin coat- one that covers the threads smoothly. I hate the fat football look. Then again it's personal preference.
    I agree the fat football thing is a no no. I use flex coat thin build, and do two coats. The reason I like 2 coats is, it's pretty hard to never have a bubble creep out of somewhere, and then there is the little wisp of thread you may miss. You can cut the thread and pop the bulbble and after the second coat you have perfect finishes. As long as you do the second coat in less than 24 hours from the first coat.

  4. #44
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    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    Thanks for the advice guys.

    Drywall tape makes a lot of sense, due to its extreme porosity.

    I got one of the flex coat kits with everything for one rod. I'm fairly sure its the standard thread epoxy intended for one coat. (Guess I'll just be extra careful to not get bubbles into it. The kit comes with 4 syringes, mixing cups and sticks, brushes, and tip-top and guide adhesive.
    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1276302_n.jpg

    I'd rather hunt fish than bait deer any day.

  5. #45

    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    Quote Originally Posted by Diver Dan View Post
    Would you be willing to build a spey rod? I doubt $120 would get you there. But... Spey rods have a much more restrictive grain window (the min. and max weight the head can be and still work) than a single hand rod. If you would like me to research what blanks will work with that line and not break your piggy bank, just give me the green light and I'll start looking.
    Thanks Dan,

    I was actually looking at a kit off Hook and Hackle it is there fspey11 11.5 foot 6/7 for $142.00. I don't know anything about rod building, picking a blank, etc.

    I did email with Ron at Hook and Hackle and this is the kit he recommends. I am still in the consideration phase of this build and may still decide to just build a standard rod.

    Mojo, I only paid $30 bucks for this $150 line, so am not in a hurry to use or sell it at this point. As I said, when this rod build came up I was just gonna watch, and still may. I have several rods including the 6/7 weight glass and a 6 wt graphite and I have a couple 6 weight lines. I didn't realize that the spey rods would not work well on a lake, and I appreciate the info, I was thinking like an engineer I guess figuring the longer rod would give me more leverage to cast longer on the flatwater from a waist deep location.

    I already have a couple 2 pc 5 wts, a couple 4 pc 5 wts and a few 3 wts including a boo rod. Hence, the thought about building a spey rod, since I don't have one and I do have the line.

    Guess I should sit back and contemplate a little longer and figure out what I want to do now.

    Thanks again for all the advice.

    d

  6. #46
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    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    Webrx,
    First of all, spey rods do work well on a lake. The main reason being you can cast them a freakin mile. I have used mine several times this year on Lake Superior. The main reason they don't get used on lakes much is that people primarily swing flies in current with them. I on the other hand, I use a stripping basket and strip line in just like you would with a single hand rod most of the time. When it comes time to cast, I shake line out till I hit the marker, perry poke and single spey cast back out. I can do casts well over 100' with it, and have put casts out to 100' in the wind. No single hand rod I own allows me to do that. Nobody thought you could use a spey rod for Walleye, but I knocked 'em silly with it all last summer and fall. I have fished some smaller rivers with it, and keep in mind mine is 15' long, that it was a bit to much rod for, but lakes are fine and rivers where you have no backcast room are just what this is for. Look at this video, which is one of the videos I taught myself to speycast with, and notice three things. First, how far he casts, second how far the line travels behind him, and third where the fly comes out of the water IN FRONT OF HIM. This is why I started spey casting. High banks, water that gets deep fast, and BIG water.
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vY7q5UEIuM"]YouTube- Advanced Speycasting - Loop's New Opti Power Spey Rod in Action.[/ame]

  7. #47

    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    Guysangals,(new word I just made up), Auntie Em came through again.
    Check out Sevier Mfg. http://store.seviermfg.com/
    Blanks are very well priced. You could get the reel seats, guides, tip tops, cork, the works there too. Inexpensive to get started. Check them out. If you screw it up (which I doubt will happen) you won't be out that much.
    Life is not like a bowl of cherries. It's more like a jar of ghost peppers. What you eat today might burn your ass tomorrow...

  8. #48

    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    Just as a PS ... on that web page ... the "other people who bought this also bought" listings are ONLY IDEAS!!!!! You can mix and match to your little hearts delight! There are NO rules! (S'pose that's one reason I like rod building so much!!).

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  10. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    How close are we to getting started? Does anyone have all the parts?

  11. #50

    Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

    yes
    Ready when you all are!!

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