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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lake of the Woods/Rainy River Minnesota Canada border
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    4,752

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    I got the last of the cork cut and layed out. The next step is to glue it all up and turn it. I talked to Thomas and Thomas and they are sending me something that has a good unobstructed logo on it. I decided as big as this blank is there will be plenty of room on it for a weave on the bottom side and the feather inlay on the top. So I am going to weave their logo on the bottom. I'll post the weave steps as I go along also. Here is a photo of the start of the bottom grip. It has the seat laying where it will go. I'm doing it as a downlocking. This is a goog idea when doing a spey rod, especially since everyone has gone overly happy with porting and light on reels nowdays. It is hard to find a reel that weighs enough to balance a bigger spey rod that does not also cost you an arm and a leg.

  2. Likes thorsten liked this post
  3. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    White City (tad north of Medford) Oar-E-Gone
    Posts
    10,825

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    "It is hard to find a reel that weighs enough to balance a bigger spey rod that does not also cost you an arm and a leg."

    Take a look at the SpeyCo reels. Have several and they're the cat's meow for counter balancing a longer rod. They've got some 'beef' to them.

    Fred
    When wealth is lost, nothing is lost; when health is lost, something is lost; when character is lost, all is lost. - Billy Graham"

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  5. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lake of the Woods/Rainy River Minnesota Canada border
    Posts
    4,752

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    I will. Thanks Fred.

  6. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Parlin, NJ / Staten Island, NY
    Posts
    2,063

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    Quote Originally Posted by Diver Dan View Post
    I got the last of the cork cut and layed out. The next step is to glue it all up and turn it. I talked to Thomas and Thomas and they are sending me something that has a good unobstructed logo on it. I decided as big as this blank is there will be plenty of room on it for a weave on the bottom side and the feather inlay on the top. So I am going to weave their logo on the bottom. I'll post the weave steps as I go along also. Here is a photo of the start of the bottom grip. It has the seat laying where it will go. I'm doing it as a downlocking. This is a goog idea when doing a spey rod, especially since everyone has gone overly happy with porting and light on reels nowdays. It is hard to find a reel that weighs enough to balance a bigger spey rod that does not also cost you an arm and a leg.
    Your a better man than me. I've done 3 weaves in the past 12 years. I don't ever remember cursing as much as I did during those three adventures.
    The best way to a fisherman's heart is through his fly.

  7. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lake of the Woods/Rainy River Minnesota Canada border
    Posts
    4,752

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    Quote Originally Posted by swirlchaser View Post
    Your a better man than me. I've done 3 weaves in the past 12 years. I don't ever remember cursing as much as I did during those three adventures.
    I've done the MN Viking logo twice in full color. I can't believe I was talked into it twice. I thought I was going to need therapy after the second one. The MN Wild logo was a snap. It looks hard but in compairson to the Viking's logo it was a breeze. I really like weaves. They are not as hard as it sounds. One color weaves are not that hard. I came up with a sort of cheating method that makes the multi color weaves not as bad either. If you ever decide to do another weave, let me know and I'll show you how I do them. It's kind of a modified Doc Ski way to do it.

  8. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Parlin, NJ / Staten Island, NY
    Posts
    2,063

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    No thanks you've done enough to keep me busy. My last weave was a striped bass, I've sworn them off after that one.
    The best way to a fisherman's heart is through his fly.

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  10. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Wasilla / Skwentna, Alaska
    Posts
    15,500
    Blog Entries
    113

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    Looking good Dan.

    Marco, think british design on that rod on the other thread

    Anywhere can be the land of great expectations, broken dreams, or paradise found, it's all up to you.

    Life On The Line - Alaska Fishing with Ard
    Ard's Forum blog, Alaska Outdoors

  11. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    sycamore, illinois
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    4,587
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    outstanding work dan!!
    cant wait to see the logo
    incredible craftsmanship you possess

    casey


    ARFE

  12. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lake of the Woods/Rainy River Minnesota Canada border
    Posts
    4,752

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    OK, I started glue up and turn the grips. When you do those checkers there are always small imperfections in the wedge sizes. But because all 3 layers come from one glued up ring you can turn them so they line up all the way around. Once you discover the best line up, mark them so when you are glueing them up you get them lined up the right way. I use 1 hour rod building epoxy to glue them up. Make sure to wax the mandrel so you don't make a nice grip that you can't remove from the mandrel. I use canning paraffin.

    Now because cork and epoxy 'lumps' have very different hardnesses, I wipe the cork down with alcohol. In fact you have to be careful when turning things with variable hardnesses. If I do wood and cork I will turn and finish sand the wood before gluing it to the cork. That way when you turn the cork down, you can use the wood as the stop for a perfect match. I made my cork clamp from a couple of wood finish sample boards from the lumber yard, and a couple pieces of all thread. On top of that you need 4 wing nuts and washers. I clamp the cork down enough to get a bit of compression but not so hard I crush anything. I always line the mandrel up in the center of the holes in the clamp and tighten it so the gap between the boards is the same on both sides. I leave them overnight before removing them from the clamp.

    In the case where you were building a grip like this with EVA for a big saltwater fly rod, like some guys like, you can do the same thing as with the cork rings, but you have to make the rings your self out of the big EVA blocks. You need a good miter saw and sand the ends smooth. Do that by doing figure 8's on the sand paper flat on a hard surface and moving your grip on the block around very often. This keeps your block from gettin thinner on one side. You can then make the rings by putting tape around the drill on a hole saw with the proper inside diameter till you get the proper size of the hole in the blok. This will act as a pilot and since foam is relatively easy to cut, you can saw it by hand instead of putting it in a drill. All of the presvious steps still apply except use contact cement on both surfaces, let them dry and then on your turning mandrel push them together into place. Make VERY sure you have them lined up the way you want because once they touch, that's it, they live there for life.


    If I turn them on the 1/4" mandrel like I did the lower grip here, I put the reel seat end closest to the drill I turn it with. You can use a hand drill, but a drill press, which is what I used here is easier. The reason you put the seat end closer is that you see the reveal around the seat where you don't on the other end. If there is going to be an end that is slightly off center you want it to be the end you can't tell on. Even 1/16th of an inch will show on the reel seat end. Here is the bottom grip turned and the mandrel not yet removed. You can remove it by holding the grip firmly in your hand and tap the end of the mandrel with a hammer.

    It's not quite done here. There is fine dark dust in the light cork grain that needs to be cleaned up, but it's close enough to done to get the idea. After this I will drill the hole in the grip out to fit the blank using a pilot bit. I'll stop short of going all the way through and then glue in a rubberized cork plug to seal the hole in the end. When you do that, put the glue in the hole so you don't get glue on the end of the grip. Once it's sanded down you won't be able to tell there was a hole in the end. Because there is a slight difference in the diameter of the blank from the top to bottom of the lower grip, I will use strips of fiberglass joint tape to get the diameter right and liberaly glue it on. I will have pictures of how to do the tape in the next post. You can use masking tape, and lots do, I just like this better. The fiberglass never breaks down. It has holes in it so the epoxy goes all the way from the cork to the blank all the way down the grip uninterupted by the tape arbors as you would with masking tape.

    On a side note, this build may have gone from a 14' 9wt., to a 17' 11 wt. I am going to build both rods, but I really want the big one done before the ice goes out.
    Last edited by Guest1; 02-20-2012 at 04:11 PM. Reason: I put a weird word in it, sheesh!

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  14. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Pinedale, WY
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    19,002
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    50

    Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

    Wow, Dan that grip is look awesome!

    I sure hope your back is doing a little better!

    Larry
    Larry


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