How to repair broker blank near tip?

[Red Owl]

I was salmon fishing on the Salmon River in NY and on the last fish I landed I put the rod down and went to grab the salmon and it still had some fight in it and flipped and the rod was between some rocks (I didn't notice when I put it down) and- you guessed it- about 12" down from the tip the blank snapped in two.
It is a Fenwick Eagle, not a very expensive rod but I can use it for bass, etc if I can fix it. The broken halves fit together okay and I have done some net searches. It seems the deal is to make a hardwood dowell that fits into the two broken parts and glue that in place and then wind the exteior.
What is the best way to do this type of repair? Is a wood dowell the best or is a dowell made of other material better? What type of glue should be used? If you wind the outside, what type of thread and should it be covered with epoxy, etc? I understand using windings for a line guide but using winding for a broken blank doesn't seem right. Would a fiberglass patch around the outside be better? Thanks for any help.

 

[fredaevans]

You could do that, but you're going to get a total 'dead spot' in your rod. Fellow here in Medford does 'rod repairs' like that, but he uses a section of old graphite rod material so the rod keeps (as best possible) its bend.

That said, at 12" in, I think you/rod are 'toast.'

 

[jpbfly]

Don't think wood is a good idea...agree with Fred...a piece from an old graphite or glass rod will be better.Stick both sides and don't forget a winding over the "junction"...if you do the tip will break again...

 

[Ard]

Check at a good hobby store for carbon fiber shafts. Take the section of hollow rod with so you can select the best size for the job. These shafts are used for kite frame builds and are pretty strong. I'm not saying that it'll be good as new but it'll beat wood.

Ard

 

[Rip Tide]

Like Ard says you need to use a piece of fiberglass on the inside of the break. I've used graphite as well , but it's not as strong
It needs to be fitted carefully from the fat end of the blank section so that it fits tightly resembling a spigot ferrule.

You glue it all together at this point with epoxy and then wrap it over with white rod building thread ( or some other synthetic thread) and then cover the wraps with rod finish. The white thread will become transparent under the rod finish and you'll barely know it's there
I save broke fishing poles just for this, but finding a piece with the proper diameter is key.

 

[Red Owl]

I never thought about using a section of another rod for the inside ferrule/splice. I think I have some old rods around that may work. As I said it is not an expensive rod and at first I just figured it was junk but then I got thinking about whether a repair was possible. As a "learning experience" I think I'll go ahead and try to fix it. Thanks guys for the help.

 

[Rip Tide]

I've done this a few times. I haven't noticed any difference in the performance and you need to look very closely to even see the repair.

 

[Auntie Em]

Follow Ard and Rip Tides advise. Make it a spigot ferrule. Use fiberglass.

 

[theboz]

It works! I used the Riptide method on my Fenwick 11wt which had broken at the base. No problem . The key like he states is to have a piece that makes a snug fit when inserted.

 

[Red Owl]

The inside diameter is so small that I am thinking a different tactic. I can pull some strings of fiberglass from a fiberglass repair kit- stretch them out and paint them with resin/hardener- to make my own fiberglass "toothpick" which I can mount in a drill and turn/sand until it just fits inside the broken area- and then glue in place with more resin/hardener- and when dry-wind the thread on the outside- as stated. I was thinking I might also wet the outside surface with resin/hardener before putting on the thread and lay down a few longitudinal strands of figerglass and let dry and then wind over that. The repair would be all glass so hopefully a little flexible. As I said, this would not be a rod for long casts- I could use it for bass fishing, etc- the main thing is a repair that wouldn't break.

 

[Red Owl]

UPDATE: I had an old fiberglass fly rod I had not used in years so I went ahead and used that. The Fenwick upper section is open on the bottom so I could drop the splice into the bottom and use a wire to push it up to the break. I realized that one big advantage of using a short piece of an old rod is that it is tapered and will fit better into the two broken halves. Well I glued the halves together and used a temporary thread wrapping on the outside that I will now remove and replace. So far everything looks good.
I can buy special nylon rod wrapping thread and two part epoxy finish but I am eager to finish the job and not too happy about ordering something through the mail and waiting SO...more questions. All help appreciated.
1. These wrappings are to re-enforce the break, not just hold on a guide. Is size A thread correct? The special nylon thread made for rod builders is supposed to have longer thread fibers and hence is stronger- is that true or would nylon thread at a local fabric shop work the same?
2. One single wrap- is that enough or should I wrap once- put on three coats of finish and then a second wrap?
3. I thought that spar varnish would work but I see that two part epoxies are now used but you have to use a special dryer with them and it takes them forever to dry. Nail polish- I heard- might damage the surrounding rod finish. Someone said super glue would work. Is there a common product available at a local hardware store that works? Spar Varnish? Super glue, Etc. One trouble with spar varnish is if I have to get a huge amount (1 gallon can). If using the special rod building products makes a big difference then I guess I can get them but I was wondering if local, more easily purchased products will also work. Thanks for any help.

 

[Rip Tide]

With the thread you're just reinforcing the area so that it doesn't crack. One layer of thread will be fine and I'm sure that regular nylon sewing thread is as good as any.

For the finish, you need a flexible cement which is why most people use the rod finish. I'm sure that there are other flexible epoxies, but I can't name one.
Spar varnish works just as well but you'll have to apply multiple coats just to cover the thread wraps. The Ace Hardware brand comes in 1/2 pint cans and is very popular with many bamboo rod builders. Super glue will be absorbed and not cover the wraps. A nail polish finish coat has been recommended to me in the past, but I know from experience that it doesn't hold up.

 

[Red Owl]

Thanks, appreciate the help.

 

[fredaevans]

+1 to what RT said.

fae

 

[Rip Tide]

Oh, I should add that rod finish takes somewhere around 45 minutes to set up enough so that it does not sag. You do not need a special "dryer". You can easily do this by hand. You just watch it and give it a 1/4 turn every minute or so at the beginning. Towards the end of the process, it's like every 5-10 minutes.
You do have to pay attention though.

 

[Ard]

Something I don't think we covered here; do you know how to start and finish a wrap? Once you see it done it's pretty simple but you better seek out some You Tube rod wrapping demos to see how it is done.

Ard

 

[Red Owl]

I think I am pretty well set, to finish you place a loop of thread down and wrap over it 5 times and run the wrapping thread through the loop and pull the loop to bring the end of the wrapping thread under those last 5 wraps and then trim. The only trouble I have is at the start- I wrap over the tag end five times but I have trouble getting it started.

 

[45fisher]

RipTide's got it.
I use broken pieces of graphite and fiber glass rods do these kind of repairs... also before you go through all of this it might not be a bad idea to contact Fenwick and see if you can't just get a replacement tip.
You maybe surprised that they will charge you minimum for the tip and or send it free + S&H.
I have done this with other companies (not Fenwick)...that's why I have pieces of broken rods on hand for when the repair is more cost efective.

Good luck.

Larry

 

[Red Owl]

Well, I used an old fly rod section for the inside and I have wrapped the outside but have not yet "painted" it. I bought some ACE hardware spar varnish. My plan is to space the coats about 2 1/2 days apart and put on 4 coats minimum- or until the finish looks okay.