Ferrule wrap issue, I want your opinion

[dean_mt]

Hey there. Last week I finally got started on my rod. I thought I had everything figured out but I made a little mistake. Without much thought about it I decided to make the ferrule wrap (its a 2 piece) the length of the rod that is inserted. I've done it this way before but I know its not necessary. Anyway, in my infinite wisdom I prepped the blank with a scotch bride pad to that length, about 2 inches, before doing the full test wrap to make the final decision based on the looks! I think it looks a little long! It is obviously quite a bit longer than a factory job but this is my rod.

Anyway, here is my question for you all: I have two options, keep the ferrule wrap at that length or shorten it by half or so and run a very light epoxy finish up the blank about an inch to coat the dulled section.

Here is a picture of the length of the wrap...this is not the final wrap, I am reworking it a little, but this is the general idea/pattern I will do. I am currently leaning back to making it long, I want to use the fade and I like the length.

 

[williamhj]

If you like it, do it Makes it totally unique and yours. I really like the thread pattern, by the way.

 

[rubberguy]

I personally wrap the female equal to the length the male gets inserted. I figure at least it supports the rod in a stressed area. $.02

 

[dean_mt]

Thanks William, i like the pattern too in general. Last night I reversed it, started with the trim band and ended with fade at the ferrule end. The reason twofold, its awful hard to keep that 4 turn trim band in place at the end of the ferrule throughout the rest of process and having a nice tight wrap as close to the end is the most important place to be reinforced. I'll get it finished tonight and post it to other thread.

Rubberguy, that has been my thinking as well. But I've read a lot builders say it is overkill. I still think it adds something to the look.

Thanks guys.

 

[wt bash]

I'm with Rubberguy, maybe overkill but I dig it. Nice pattern too man it different and outside the box, right on!

 

[williamhj]

I'm with Rubberguy, maybe overkill but I dig it. Nice pattern too man it different and outside the box, right on!

Exactly who cares what's standard or what's overkill. No rules just what you like and what you like to fish.

I usually just to 1.5 the diameter of the female because I like the look and it keeps proportions between the sections. I believe some manufacturers say you don't even need to reinforce the ferrules on their blanks and even if you do, about 1 or 1.5x the diameter of the female is enough. But part of custom building is going beyond what's standard or necessary and making it yours.

We customize with thread color, trim bands, different grip shapes and materials, reel seat inserts, hook keeper styles (or lack of them), decals, guide styles and colors, people add decorative wraps, paint blanks, and very little of it has a practical impact beyond the personal satisfaction we might take in creating and fishing the rod. So that's why I say go for the ferrule wrap! It's cool, it's custom, and you like it.

 

[petee]

That's why they call it custom rod building. There is no wrong way to build your own custom .

That being said, some folks will say the excess weight from the thread and finish will effect the rod's action both in casting and fighting a fish. My opinion? 99% of the casters out there could never feel a difference if you put a rod in their hands without a 2" wrap.

Keep pushing the envelope. Inovations never happen without thinking outside the box.

Just my $.02,
Pete

 

[dean_mt]

Thanks Bill, I knew it would be a little unorthodox, but sometimes symmetry needs to be broken.

Thanks for 2 cents as well Pete.

Kids in bed and I'm going to re-wrap this one more time...you'll see it later.

 

[sumojo]

Looks great i like it cant wait to see it finished

 

[dean_mt]

Here is the latest. I'm going to look at it while I work on the rest. I think it will stick...

[/IMG]

 

[theboz]

Nice look John! Good to see some originality! Looking foward to the end result!

 

[Guest1]

I'd leave it long. Not sure what the finish would look like after being hit with a pad, flex coat or not. Just for future reference, I never do the scotch brite thing. I just go over the blanks finish. I have never had a problem and in fact have never heard you need to do it.

 

[dean_mt]

I'd leave it long. Not sure what the finish would look like after being hit with a pad, flex coat or not. Just for future reference, I never do the scotch brite thing. I just go over the blanks finish. I have never had a problem and in fact have never heard you need to do it.

I read an interesting article on blank prep and epoxy adhesion. The writer admitted that it is not necessary as no factory rods are prepared this way and rarely does the epoxy fail. I decided to go with the extra step of prepping the blank to a "water break free" surface due to what I've read about care needed in mounting Recoil guides. If not properly wound with good epoxy penetration and adhesion they can slip free, due to the material's pliable nature. I know it was completely unnecessary for the ferrule where there isn't a foot to worry about, I just thought I'd do it. Live and learn.

 

[frogg]

While reading the first page of this, I was wondering why you "prepped" the blank. I've never done it myself, and have never heard of anyone else doing it either. Ahhh, page two, got my answer...nevermind.
Anywho, I like the first design. I like the trim on the open end. Not sure about the trim bands in the gold area.
But it's your rod, and like everyone has already said, there are no rules in custom rod building.


Chris

 

[jpbfly]

Very nice job on both John:thumbsup:I prefer the second one... but don't ask me why

 

[biggie_robs]

I read an interesting article on blank prep and epoxy adhesion. The writer admitted that it is not necessary as no factory rods are prepared this way and rarely does the epoxy fail. I decided to go with the extra step of prepping the blank to a "water break free" surface due to what I've read about care needed in mounting Recoil guides. If not properly wound with good epoxy penetration and adhesion they can slip free, due to the material's pliable nature. I know it was completely unnecessary for the ferrule where there isn't a foot to worry about, I just thought I'd do it. Live and learn.

First, I think the long wrap looks pretty cool and would keep it.

Second, I almost always use recoil guides and have never had any slippage issues. I never use CP and always use Flex Coat lite (2-3 coats), FYI.

In any case, congrats on a nice looking wrap and build!

 

[dean_mt]

Thanks Rob. Good to know about the Recoils, I've never used them and just wanted to take proper precautions after what I'd heard from some other folks. A lot of guys' problem seemed to stem from filing down too much foot. I guess that paddle-shaped foot is there for a reason! Not having fished them yet, I like the guides a lot, nice wide hoop and very consistent and flat feet.

 

[Auntie Em]

I, too, like the second wrap ... a LOT!!!

 

[Guest1]

I decided to go with the extra step of prepping the blank to a "water break free" surface due to what I've read about care needed in mounting Recoil guides. If not properly wound with good epoxy penetration and adhesion they can slip free, due to the material's pliable nature. I know it was completely unnecessary for the ferrule where there isn't a foot to worry about, I just thought I'd do it. Live and learn.

Actually if you are worried about the foot slipping, and you should only worry in the case of single foot guides, you can wrap a few turns past the foot. Plus you should get the flex coat onto the blank on both sides of the wrap and that will also stop it. With a snake guide, you have wraps at both ends. Where's it going to go?

By the way, I have almost universally used color preserver, and make sure I get it inside next to the fool in the gap, along with the flex coat. I have never had any kind of problem with any kind of guide.

 

[dean_mt]

Actually if you are worried about the foot slipping, and you should only worry in the case of single foot guides, you can wrap a few turns past the foot. Plus you should get the flex coat onto the blank on both sides of the wrap and that will also stop it. With a snake guide, you have wraps at both ends. Where's it going to go?

By the way, I have almost universally used color preserver, and make sure I get it inside next to the fool in the gap, along with the flex coat. I have never had any kind of problem with any kind of guide.

Dan, the Recoil guides are a proprietary Nickle Titanium that bends and flexes but goes back to it's original shape unlike a rigid stainless steel guide. So even with both feet tied down it is possible for pressure on one side of the hoop move just that one foot. Anyway, like I said, from what I've read about users experiences, the slippage occurs on the light wire versions mostly and when the feet are file down too far. The feet are a unique "paddle shape" I'll call it. Rather than tapering to a thinner point at the end, they widen and end in a flat rounded shape. I believe this helps to lock them in when tied on.

At any rate, like I said, I just felt like taking the extra step...apparently to make more work for myself!

Anyone interested to follow along, I am updating the thread titled "Sage XP 596" as I make progress.

---------- Post added at 02:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------

I, too, like the second wrap ... a LOT!!!

Thanks Auntie! I appreciate your experience and opinion.