Suggestions for Converting Reel Seat- Downlocking to Uplocking - Early Graphite Rod

[RAVC]

I have purchased a few older Fenwick HMG graphite fly rods. We mounted a size 3 Lamson Guru II (~ 5 oz) on my son's 8.5' 8 wt Fenwick GFF858. This is a 3.5 oz rod with a downlocking real seat. It was clear the rod needs an uplocking reel seat.

I suspect these reel seats are glued on so, the boiling water method should work to loosen the adhesive to permit replacement. What I need is the experience of those here for quality lightweight reel seats. I read a post here before posting indicating aluminum is what all the premier rod manufacturers are currently using. Since this is an older rod I do not know if I need to reach for aluminium. My Winston graphite rods have wood reel seats but, these are also older rods.

We purchased the Guru II for this rod so, opting for a new reel is out of the question.
Besides, we like Lamson. I hope to try a Danielsson soon...

 

[Rip Tide]

It was clear the rod needs an uplocking reel seat.

We purchased the Guru II for this rod so, opting for a new reel is out of the question.
Besides, we like Lamson. I hope to try a Danielsson soon...

What that rod needs is a heavier reel, but since you already have you mind made up, good luck to ya'

 

[jayr]

I agree with the previous poster, find a heavier reel.

 

[swcr]

If it has one of the original fenwick all aluminum reel seats, boil it off and turn it around and make it an uplock, and put the plug back in the rear. With those seats you do not even have to worry about recessing the hood

 

[flav]

I've replaced a few reel seats, and you're opening a can of worms here.
The problem with the fenwicks is the cork. The the end near the handle on fenwick grips is thin. You can't recess the new seat into the cork, or at least you cant do it very easily, so you need to install a seat with an exposed hood. They're available, and in all aluminum, but the hood could have a bigger outside diameter than the cork. That would look weird. You also want to make sure the new seat is the same length, or just a tad longer than the old one or you'll need to add cork. It might all go smoothly, but you could also endup with a mess.
When I replace reel seats I strip off everything; seat, cork, hook keeper, label, decorative wraps, and start over like it's a new blank. If it's a 2 piece you also have to remove the guides and wraps on the butt section to slide on the new cork. It's kind of like fixing an old car, once you repace one thing, other things start breaking, and you might as well strip it down and rebuild from the ground up.