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  1. #1

    Default Reel seat repair?

    Not sure if this is the right area to post this question. I recently purchased a used rod and there is a slight gap between the lower reel seat hardware and the reel seat insert. It's a hard to find rod, so I'd really rather not send it back if it's fixable. Basically, the threads on the uplocking reel seat can slide on the insert about a quarter to a half an inch. I'm wondering if this is something that is easily fixable or not? Is this just a matter of adding some epoxy or something in there or is there something bad internally that is causing this to happen?

    I'm not a rod builder, so any advice would be appreciated. I'm not sure how these pieces are normally attached to the insert.

    I've attached a photo, you can see the small gap right above the threads of the reel seat where the insert changes color. The threads can be pushed up to cover this, but it doesn't stay in place when you slide it up. It makes sense to me that some epoxy or glue could be applied and then the reel seat slid back up over the insert, but I'd like some advice on this first.

    IMG_20200113_154053.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Knoxville, TN
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    1,238

    Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    I had a rod do that. I just put some epoxy inside the reel hardware and pushed it back on. I let it cure for a day or so and it hasn't moved a bit.

    I will add that before you put the epoxy on it, clean it out very well removing any crud/loose epoxy that was there before.
    Mainline the blueline

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    south of Joplin
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    309

    Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    I would use a hot melt ferrule cement stick same as setting ferrules, tip tops and arrow points. Gudebrod is one brand. If you gently heat the metal and twist, it should come right off, melt a little glue onto the insert; and push the warmed hardware back where you want it.

    Epoxy will hold it but the hot glue is easier to undo if I want to change something later.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Albuquerque, NM
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    2,358

    Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    Just slide the rest of that threaded barrel all the way off. One way to do that is to mount a reel on there and just keep tightening the locking nut. Another option is to just to heat it gently with a hair dryer, and pull the threaded barrel off (wear gloves!). Clean out the old epoxy from the barrel and off the insert, rough them up a little bit, and apply epoxy. Twist that barrel as you push it back on to the insert to evenly distribute the epoxy. Importantly, tape up both sides of that joint--the threaded barrel and the insert--as the epoxy will push out as you push the pieces together. And you will need to hold the pieces together somehow; I typically set the rod up vertically with the butt cap down. Because you have the butt cap on there, there is no place for the air to go, and the barrel will want to push back off, and that epoxy is like a lubricant before it dries.

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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    quiet corner, ct
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    9,753

    Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    I can only add that you'll want to use 10 minute epoxy, not 5, so to be sure that you've lined up the seat correctly.
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements. --- Horace Kephart

  7. #6

    Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    This is great, thank you everyone! I'll pick some of this stuff up and get to fixing.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    588

    Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    You may want to tape off the threads and anywhere else you don't want the epoxy to touch. In my world, it seems goes everywhere but where I want it

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  10. Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    I agree with all that's said above and add: It looks like a high end nickel silver reel seat with walnut spacer. Does the rear hood swivel if so then you don't have to worry about alignment. take the rear barrel with hood off clean out old adhesive inside and on wood insert...the end cap should be attached to barrel gently with wood dowel tap it off remove the rear hood...now return the barrel with epoxy inside the barrel and light coating on the wood to the end of the rod seat insert remember the end facing the front hood has a small section unthreaded... use masking tape to cover the wood spacer and the entire rear seat barrel because when you push it on 'poxy will go everywhere...use a pair of nitrile gloves...get half pint or pint of acetone for epoxy solvent...wipe off the excess then remove the tape careful not to pull the rear barrel up and off the wood...since the rear hood is not fixed to the barrel, alignment is not an issue and since you have removed the rear cap you won't have trapped air push back on the epoxy coated barrel...then re-attach rear cap with couple of dabs of thin super glue...make sure you have the rear hood on and facing the right direction...get the epoxy that comes in a small kit that you attach a mixing nozzle to the end and yes I've made all the mistakes over 50 years of rod assembling. This is my TXL-4wt with REC Components Nickel Silver with a machined rear hoodREC.jpg

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  12. #9

    Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    Quote Originally Posted by bonefish41 View Post
    Does the rear hood swivel if so then you don't have to worry about alignment.
    Yes, thank you bonefish, good point! It does swivel (it's a Sage SP) so I'm not worried about alignment for the rear hood.

    A couple questions, I assume something like blue painters tape will work just as well as masking tape for taping off the walnut spacer?

    My other question is after applying epoxy and seating the barrel, should I remove the tape before the epoxy sets? It seems like once the barrel is seated, all the "extra" epoxy will have come out already, so I don't want to leave the tape on there for the epoxy to bond it to the spacer.

  13. #10
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Default Re: Reel seat repair?

    Quote Originally Posted by nuchamps5 View Post
    Yes, thank you bonefish, good point! It does swivel (it's a Sage SP) so I'm not worried about alignment for the rear hood.

    A couple questions, I assume something like blue painters tape will work just as well as masking tape for taping off the walnut spacer?

    My other question is after applying epoxy and seating the barrel, should I remove the tape before the epoxy sets? It seems like once the barrel is seated, all the "extra" epoxy will have come out already, so I don't want to leave the tape on there for the epoxy to bond it to the spacer.
    Leave the tape on until it completely hardens and sets up. I know when I did mine, it took a while. Let it set a couple of days to be sure.
    Mainline the blueline

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