As you know, Frank, epoxy (if that is the resin Sage is using) is a 2 part mix that can be tempermental to the precise amount of hardner used. Your image (OK, it is out of focus) looks like moisture UNDER the finish. This can not be a good thing. It may well be your rod needs to be factory stripped and re-wrapped. I suggest re-photographing this penomina in good light on several sections of the rod and contacting Sage again. You may need to use an older rod for a little while while this is resolved correctly. Rods are supposed to be waterproof (please forgive me for being a little tounge in cheek). Perhaps Sage will provide a loaner rod while yours is in for service? (more humor).
I agree. I use to build rods and there are three issues with epoxy. One, it wasn't mixed correctly and it doesn't work as advertised, either never setting (not enough resin) or losing flexibility (not enough hardener). The never setting issue is rare on commercial rods.
Two, it isn't applied evenly in multiple light coats
after the color preservative has fully dried. If it's applied in one big coat, (common on mass produced rods) it may not impregnate the threads fully and moisture can get under the epoxy. This shouldn't happen on a low production fly rod like a Sage and in there defense its rare.
Three, It doesn't dry evenly or consistently. If the finish is really thick and allowed to dry without rotating in a dust free dryer room it can lump or get dabri in it (dust particles) which contaminate it. Its a bit like drying the paint job on a car or musical instrument.
One of the things that adds a lot to the cost of Hardys SW Sintrex rods (Proaxis) is that they have a base thread wrap under each guide to protect the blank. And all of those wraps have to be completely finished and dried
before the guides are wrapped. The blanks are otherwise so flexible that under stress without the guide wrap the guide feet were puncturing and blowing up the blanks during testing.
