My Brand new Orvis Access Switch... Snapped!!!
- Thread starter delopez
- Start date
take it back tomorrow or Monday. They should give you a new one. Orvis has great customer service.So, I as I was loading my rod off of a snap T, I loaded my D-loop, began to pull my underhand to my body to make the cast and snap!!!!
I just picked this up yesterday... I fished it for the first time, today... wth!
I'm going to have to wait until Monday. I purchased this from my local fly shop...
Rip Tide
Well-known member
I snapped a new rod on the first cast on a trip to Florida
caseywise
Well-known member
you'll get it replaced, no prob
orvis is good like that.
casey
orvis is good like that.
casey
fly_guy12955
Well-known member
Well,,actually,,,if it breaks within 25 years,,,,yes. Of course they aren't dumb enough to send 'one right out' till they get the broken one back. You can see were such a liberal policy as that would go,,yes ?
fredaevans
Well-known member
Welcome to the World of 2hander casting.
The term "Snap T" is called that for very good reason. 'Snapped tip,' etc.:shades: That aside, you'll be well taken care of would be my best guess.
Welcome to my world.
:wiggle:
The term "Snap T" is called that for very good reason. 'Snapped tip,' etc.:shades: That aside, you'll be well taken care of would be my best guess.
Welcome to my world.
:wiggle:
theboz
Well-known member
Snapped my new TFO on the last Salmon of the day ! It was the last whether I liked it or not. That was two weeks ago got it back already . Love good warranties!
dillon
Well-known member
http://www.orvis.com/intro.aspx?subject=369
Make sure your ferrules are properly seated throughout the day. Loose ferrules create unnecessary stress at critical points in the rod. Attach rod sections at a 45-degree angle and push them together with a slight twist to align. This ensures that your rod ferrules are well seated. Throughout the day, occasionally take the time to check that your ferrules are still tight. Over the season apply ferrule wax (included in all new rods) or regular candle wax to ensure a snug fit. This will greatly reduce your chance of a rod break. (Orvis)
Make sure your ferrules are properly seated throughout the day. Loose ferrules create unnecessary stress at critical points in the rod. Attach rod sections at a 45-degree angle and push them together with a slight twist to align. This ensures that your rod ferrules are well seated. Throughout the day, occasionally take the time to check that your ferrules are still tight. Over the season apply ferrule wax (included in all new rods) or regular candle wax to ensure a snug fit. This will greatly reduce your chance of a rod break. (Orvis)
There was no wax included with these rods
dillon
Well-known member
Put a chunk of candle in your vest. It is disheartening to break a rod, especially a new one. It looked like yours broke at the ferrule, so I copied my post from the Orvis site. The connection can become loose after some casting making the ferrule vulnerable. Sometimes there is a flaw in the rod, but usually it is user error. All of mine have been... I'm thinking about bidding on an Access switch rod at an auction. How did you like it?
My thoughts on it: I teamed it with a royal wulff ambush line at 10. The grain on the head of that line is 400. I don't like the way that the line loads it. The rod itself seems great! Light, which for me is a big deal. I spent all day on the lake and it took way longer for my back pain to set in. Now, this rod says "tip flex," but I think it load fairly deep. I'm going to try teaming it with an airflo 6/7 skagit switch line to see how it performs. I love the blank, the weight, the cork, and the overall feel of this rod. I'm still getting used to this rod, so I will have more feedback, soon!
fredaevans
Well-known member
Went back and looked at your pic's; the hairy knees I could have done withoutSo, I as I was loading my rod off of a snap T, I loaded my D-loop, began to pull my underhand to my body to make the cast and snap!!!!
I just picked this up yesterday... I fished it for the first time, today... wth!
D). The brake was the 'male' moving out of the 'female.' A wobble point if you will. (OK to say it that way Ard?) Several good posts above on always checking your connections. If they're smooth vs sanded it not a question of 'if' they will loosen up, just 'when.' Bye the bye, a clean brake like that is usually a sign of a blank failure, not an errant fly hit. A real 'hit it with a fly' blow up will normally be very jagged.
fae
If you are out and forgot the wax, and I wax spey rods every single time I use them, you can use chap stick. I have had trouble getting them apart when you put them together and it's warmer than when you take them apart. In that event, hold the ferrule in your mouth till it warms up and it will come apart. If that still gives you trouble, hold it in your mouth and then use the behind your knees trick. That's where you grab each side of the ferrule and holding the rod behind your knees, use your legs to get more power on the pull. It comes apart straighter, and there is less chance of damage. Never use a guide as leverage.
I cannot stress the importance of at least waxing ferrules on two hand rods. The forces involved are far more than in single hand rods. If you plan on being deep in the water for a while and have really big rods, you may even want to tape them. I have white electrical tape. You run a straight piece up each side at least an inch past the joint and then wrap down and back up.
Quote of the day: not a question of 'if' they will loosen up, just 'when.' ~ Fred Evans
I cannot stress the importance of at least waxing ferrules on two hand rods. The forces involved are far more than in single hand rods. If you plan on being deep in the water for a while and have really big rods, you may even want to tape them. I have white electrical tape. You run a straight piece up each side at least an inch past the joint and then wrap down and back up.
Quote of the day: not a question of 'if' they will loosen up, just 'when.' ~ Fred Evans