I recently got a 9' 8 wt winston ascent rod that was used as a demo at my local fly shop. It normally sells for about $230 but they sold it to me for $130 because it was used. It has a bunch of abrasions on the bottom of the rod near the cork, so I was wondering if there was a way to to clean the abrasions up by maybe sanding it down and refinishing it. I have no clue how I'd do it or if it's even worth it. Or maybe there is a place I can send it to to have it cleaned up a bit? I don't know. Any help is appreciated.
Bought a used rod, but...
- Thread starter kfisher99
- Start date
FrankB2
Well-known member
It's not quite clear where the abrasions are: on the cork, the graphite, or the hardware for the reel??? If it's the graphite, I'd leave it alone. Cork can take
a light careful sanding with 220 grit paper (twirl the rod while holding the paper against the cork. If it's the reel hardware, best not too bother.
Changed my mind. If the graphite has superficial scratches that disappear when wet, get some marine varnish. Put a light coating of the varnish on your
thumb and index finger tips. Wipe a thin film onto the scratched section the rod....really light, and probably just one pass. If the milky discoloration from the scratches disappears, mission accomplished. Don't paint the varnish on, and don't go for perfection. Nobody is going to notice your rod's imperfections
from more than a couple feet away, and that's why it was discounted. The rod is not a high-end Winston, and spending any additional money will bring the cost of the rod back up to full retail.
a light careful sanding with 220 grit paper (twirl the rod while holding the paper against the cork. If it's the reel hardware, best not too bother.
Changed my mind. If the graphite has superficial scratches that disappear when wet, get some marine varnish. Put a light coating of the varnish on your
thumb and index finger tips. Wipe a thin film onto the scratched section the rod....really light, and probably just one pass. If the milky discoloration from the scratches disappears, mission accomplished. Don't paint the varnish on, and don't go for perfection. Nobody is going to notice your rod's imperfections
from more than a couple feet away, and that's why it was discounted. The rod is not a high-end Winston, and spending any additional money will bring the cost of the rod back up to full retail.
Rip Tide
Well-known member
clear fingernail polish
fredaevans
Well-known member
Beat me to it; although I'd add: Sally Hanson's hard as nails this low on the rod. Higher up on the blank .. possibly a questionable choice. There a regular thread varnish may well be the better choice (flexibility when dry).
fae
BigCliff
Well-known member
I would think the stuff used to repair scratched CD's would work well, but I don't know how durable the stuff is. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Innovations-Skip-Rejuvenation-Fluid/dp/B0001654FY/ref=pd_sim_e_2"]Amazon.com: Digital Innovations Skip Dr. Rejuvenation Fluid: Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41LETIewv0L.@@AMEPARAM@@41LETIewv0L[/ame]
I kind of regret buying this rod now, even though it still works perfectly fine. It has no warranty because it was a demo. And it has some abrasions on the graphite, but then again im VERY OCD about the gear that I spend my very hard earned money on. It's all in perfect condition after every trip. At least I got it super cheap huh?
I have to ask this, how does it work for casting? You should put a picture of these offending abrasions on the thread so we can see what you have there.
Ard
Ard
FrankB2
Well-known member
What Ard said, and....Scratches in the graphite will be black. Scratches in the finish will be clear, cloudy, white, etc. Only a score in the graphite will compromise the rod's strength, and it has to be more than a hairline scratch.