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  1. Default Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    I am going to use a 7' 3/4wt bamboo rod that I've loaded with WF 3wt F line (I may replace the 3wt line with 4wt) . My question is can I tie closure minnows light enough not to over load the rod? Can anyone tell me right off what I should consider as the maximum weight or what weight fly I should stay under for a rod of this size. I use muddlers frequently and really want to tie up some Clousure Minnows but not sure what I can use for the dumb bell eyes and am concerned I will tie up too heavy of a fly.

    I fish small creeks for smallies and have used spinning gear until last summer and got into graphite and fiberglass flyrodding using a 5wt Reddington rod. I just picked my first bamboo rod 7' 3/4 wt.

    thanks
    Tom

  2. #2

    Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    Hi Tom
    My initial reaction would be use your glass or graphite rods for the heavy duty work and dont worry about how heavy the eyes are--save that cane rod for delicate work---they are pretty tough but can take a set or fatigue if constantly overworked. We used to make a lamiglas fiberglass rod for gills and small bass and could fatigue the rod in a year or so---you wouldnt notice it until you replaced the blank and saw how crisp the rod was when it was new.
    Mike
    "something is happening here but i dont know what it is"---dylan

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    I occasionally cast small chain eye with a 3wt, but I wouldn't dare do it with a bamboo rod. Its not a matter of power, its a matter of risk. Clouser minnows are weighted projectiles with hard balls sticking off of them. Weighted projectiles tend to drop towards the ground, and in this case that means towards your rod. Its plenty possible to cast them with a wide open loop to keep them from flying into the rod, but its enough of a challenge, and a 3wt line an inappropriate enough tool to where I think its altogether a bad idea.

    I've heard folks in the industry say that bead head flies and Clouser minnows have roughly doubled rod breakage rates. The 3wt I generally fish is a cheap one with a great warrranty.
    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1276302_n.jpg

    I'd rather hunt fish than bait deer any day.

  4. Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    I didn't even consider that factor. I'll definitely heed your advice and not do it. Thanks for the advice and saving my rod.
    Tom

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    Lee Wulff used an Oval Cast for larger flies, and used bamboo. I never heard
    of the cast until I watched Joan Wulff's casting DVD. It certainly works, and
    keeps the fly away from your rod.

    I whacked a lead dumb bell Clouser against a rod ONCE . It
    was bead chain only after that.

  6. Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    I didn't even consider that factor. I'll definitely heed both replies and not do it. Thanks for the advice and saving my rod. The creeks I like to get in are very shallow with large cracks in the bed rock and thats where the Smallies like to lay in wait. Ive tied up some various muddlers on 16 and #18's that should work well with this rod.
    Tom

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    A Clouser or a beadhead will definitely damage a thin walled graphite rod, but the same impact will only mar the finish of a cane rod

    Just sayin'

    I still wouldn't do it
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements. --- Horace Kephart

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    Quote Originally Posted by FrankB2 View Post
    Lee Wulff used an Oval Cast for larger flies, and used bamboo. I never heard
    of the cast until I watched Joan Wulff's casting DVD. It certainly works, and
    keeps the fly away from your rod.
    .
    Lee Wulff would have been supplied with a new rod by an eager manufacturer like Tiger Woods would be supplied with golf clubs to be seen using. Well, maybe on a smaller scale, but I'm just saying that his economics of rod replacement weren't quite like it is for the rest of us.

    Oh, and I think bead-chain eye Clousers are at least 2/3's as likely to break a rod as a lead eyed version. Basically- any exposed weight on a fly could smack a graphite blank and lead to breakage. Moral of the story- buy a rod with a great warranty.
    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1276302_n.jpg

    I'd rather hunt fish than bait deer any day.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    LOL!!!
    Hi Cliff, I've pretty much given up using anything but small bead chain, and
    small bead heads in general. I've found that small bead chain sinks just fine
    on the smallmouth waters I fish, and I catch just as many fish with a moderate size Clouser. The Clouser would sink without any weight, but I
    like the eyes.

    My wife whacked a rod tip a few weeks ago with an 1/8" beadhead, so
    she's on probation for a while . When I use beadhead, I try to limit the
    size to 3/32, and cast carefully.

  10. Default Re: Rod Weight vs Fly Weight

    Bill you mentioned, if I understood you correctly, the inappropriateness of a 3 wt line. Please explain.

    I do have a 4 wt wf f that I haven't tried.

    I haven't had the rod to the water yet but have had it out in the grass and found it a little awkward in that I didnt feel like I was getting the rod loaded.

    Would that be something that might be from the 3wt line. The rod is marked a 4wt and the seller thought a 3 wt line fit the rod quite well. (And it could be the user) It was a pretty windy day and the fly I had on was an untrimmed muddler with no barb and it grabbed a lot of air.

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