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  1. #1

    Default Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    I am moving to Cape Cod, MA and am looking to get a decent saltwater quiver started for chasing Stripers, False Albacore and Bluefish. I have done a little research on this and it seems like rod weights 8-10 are standard (correct me if I'm wrong). I need help figuring out exactly what I should be getting to chase these fish.

    I will be fishing estuaries and shorelines on foot as well as fishing from a friends boat. Most of my saltwater fishing will be in Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod Bay, the Elizabeth Islands and Vineyard Sound.

    The only pieces of gear that I own that might be applicable is a Hatch Finatic 9+ that I used when chasing steelhead here in the PNW, and a G. Loomis NRX #6 paired with a Hatch 5+ that I use for trout (not sure if this is too light for schoolies or not). I was thinking of going with a two rod setup; an 9' #8 for estuaries and shorelines and a #10 for the boat to pair with the 9+. Not sure if this is appropriate or not but it's my best guess based on the research I've done already. With Black Friday around the corner, now is the time to stock up. Suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    quiet corner, ct
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    9,760

    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    I fish the outer Cape mostly with 4 rods
    A 9' 8wt (8-9wt line), a 10' 8wt (11wt line), a 9' 9wt (9-10wt line) and a 9' 10wt (10-12wt line)

    The 9' 8wt is the go-to most of the time. Light weight in the hand for a full day of casting, but the heavier line can still throw big flies
    The 10' 8wt is for the surf. The extra length and heavy line for mending over breaking waves
    The 9' 9wt is basically a back up at this point, but often it's my kayak rod.
    The 10wt only comes out when it's really windy and most of that time I'm fishing that with a full sink line that cuts easily through the wind


    A few of the locals that also fish the surf

    IMGP0033.jpg
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements. --- Horace Kephart

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  4. #3

    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    I would go 9 wt rather than 8- it took me a while to learn that bigger Stripers eat bigger flies. And all the 8 wt is gonna do is limit your fly size- particularly in the wind. Presentation isn't a big factor there- distance and fly size and wind are your key elements for success. The longer I chased Stripers, the more I threw the 10 wt, big flies and a heavy sink tip-... I got tired of catching smaller fish, and learned that you had to deliver the groceries down around 15-20' if you wanted the big boys to eat. I could throw a popper or smaller half & half much farther, with fewer false casts with a 9 wt than an 8 when fishing shallow estuaries.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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  6. #4

    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    Rip Tide, It sounds like if you had to pick two, a 9' #8 and a 9' #10 would be your choices. Is this correct?

    Osseous, Does that mean you would recommend just getting only one do-it-all 9wt rather than go with a quiver of an 8wt and 10wt?

  7. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    quiet corner, ct
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    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    Quote Originally Posted by moosejuice View Post
    Rip Tide, It sounds like if you had to pick two, a 9' #8 and a 9' #10 would be your choices. Is this correct?

    Osseous, Does that mean you would recommend just getting only one do-it-all 9wt rather than go with a quiver of an 8wt and 10wt?
    My fishin' partner fishes with a 9wt rod, 9wt line, 95% of the time
    I like my lighter weight 8wt rods, but I "always" over-line them, so essentially the line that I'm casting with is at least a 9wt or heavier.
    As I said in my other post, the 10wt is a last resort, but when I'm fishing my 10wt, we both are.
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements. --- Horace Kephart

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  9. #6

    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    Quote Originally Posted by moosejuice View Post
    Rip Tide, It sounds like if you had to pick two, a 9' #8 and a 9' #10 would be your choices. Is this correct?

    Osseous, Does that mean you would recommend just getting only one do-it-all 9wt rather than go with a quiver of an 8wt and 10wt?
    No- I would use a 9wt with an intermediate line for smaller flies and shallower areas when pursuing schoolies, and for Albies. I would use a 10 wt with a 450 grain FAST sinking 30' sink tip for large flies/large fish pursuits. That was my goto combo when I lived in New England.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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  11. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Boston, Mass.
    Posts
    3,129

    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    I fish coastal Mass. and have 8s, 9s, and 10s. I would say the 9 is most useful but you sometimes need a 10 in wind and surf. The 8 doesn't come out that much -- usually only in estuaries or calm conditions where there isn't much wind and the baitfish are small. Your 6 weight could be a blast when the 2-3 lb hickory shad are running!

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  13. #8

    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    I too fish a 9'/#9 most of the time. There is much merit though to a 9'/#10 with an aggressive head line fishing from a boat in the autumn and I will fish a 9'/#8 skiff fishing for springtime bass on the flats with sand eel flies but even then a 9-weight gets a lot of use.

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  15. #9
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    As a nubie north east salt water angler it's drilled into your head, 9' 9wt. intermediate line
    What you're told is that the intermediate line cuts through the chop for better line control.
    That's fine if you're just going to cast and retrieve .... as you might do with a spinning rod.

    If you're using your fly rod as it was meant to be used, a floating line gives you far better line control.
    Any time your line is below the surface, you are at the mercy of the currents.
    With the floating line you're free to mend and otherwise manipulate your line and fly in ways that you just can't do with any sinking line

    That's the advantage of using a fly rod.

    If you just want to cast and retrieve, .... use a spinning rod, that's their advantage.
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements. --- Horace Kephart

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  17. #10

    Default Re: Building a NE Saltwater Quiver

    Quote Originally Posted by Rip Tide View Post
    As a nubie north east salt water angler it's drilled into your head, 9' 9wt. intermediate line
    What you're told is that the intermediate line cuts through the chop for better line control.
    That's fine if you're just going to cast and retrieve .... as you might do with a spinning rod.

    If you're using your fly rod as it was meant to be used, a floating line gives you far better line control.
    Any time your line is below the surface, you are at the mercy of the currents.
    With the floating line you're free to mend and otherwise manipulate your line and fly in ways that you just can't do with any sinking line

    That's the advantage of using a fly rod.

    If you just want to cast and retrieve, .... use a spinning rod, that's their advantage.
    I swear by clear intermediate fly line for almost all salt water streamer fishing......of course gurglur/popper fishing or dredging the bottom is another story...
    there is no disgrace in casting and retrieving as Riptide suggests..
    there is just disgrace in not catching fish

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