What should be my next fly tying thread?

[harryhh]

Hi folks,

I would like to get into some fly tying. Just a bit to start. I have ordered some thread -
DANVILLE FLAT WAXED 210 DENIER THREAD

I was wanting a heavy thread, about 140d to tie some things like foam ants, hoppers, and beetles, but I got a good deal on this heavier stuff.

While I'm practicing and seeing if I want to get lightly, moderately, or heavily into fly tying, what might be a good second thread to start with?

I have lots of questions about fly tying materials, and I have ordered a beginner tying book that should arrive in less than a week from now. Hopefully it will answer most of my questions. But, I would like to order some thread soon.

I'm going to be practicing, and tying things with hackle, crystal flash, silicone legs, paint brush bristles or fur. I'm not real sure just what I will want to try tying but, to begin with some foam poppers and then mostly dry flies.

Would a good choice for a second thread be something like 6/0 or 70d? Do you think I should get a waxed or non waxed to start with?

Hopefully the book arrives soon!

Harry

 

[dennyk]

Hi Harry, you and I are tying basically the same patterns. This is what I do with any pattern I tie, from just in back of the hook eye I wrap a base layer of thread down to the bend of the hook. This will give your materials something to grab on to, especially foam and silicone & rubber legs. Use your heavier thread as the base layer, doesn't really matter what type.

The thread I use for tying is Veevus GO2 G.S.P+, it is small diameter and super strong. I tend to shy away from finer threads because of finger issues. You don't really need to worry about the color of your thread if you spend $8 on a multi colored pack of Sharpie markers and color your thread where desired.

Denny

 

[harryhh]

Good idea Denny,

For now I think I will go with a few different color threads.

I also was thinking of that base layer of thread to start with. I don't see them do that too often in the fly tying videos.

The first flies I bought were really cheap. 50 flies for 12.99 or something like that. After a while of fishing them, on half of them the materials tend to slide to the bend of the hook.

I was thinking of laying a base thread most of the length of the shank with a thread width space between each rap of the thread. Then super glue, or head cement, or hard as nails coating to hold all that in place. Giving a rough surface for the real fly tying to hold on to. I don't know if that will work, but I'll try it. I was also kind of wondering why they don't make fly tying hooks with a rough shank. Just a slight groove every 1/32 inch along the top and bottom of the shank.

 

[mcnerney]

Harry

Checkout this thread that Silver posted awhile back on tying thread:

Fly Tying Thread Comparison Video

Here is another great piece of information that Silver posted that you will find interesting:

Must read articles for beginner fly tiers

 

[dennyk]

The first flies I bought were really cheap. 50 flies for 12.99 or something like that. After a while of fishing them, on half of them the materials tend to slide to the bend of the hook.

Bingo, with a base layer that problem is solved. With using the tacky wax and whip finish you do not need to over use the glue.

Denny

 

[ia_trouter]

...Would a good choice for a second thread be something like 6/0 or 70d? Do you think I should get a waxed or non waxed to start with?

Hopefully the book arrives soon!

Harry

Yes those are good choices considering what you already have. Perhaps a few spools of 8/0 or equivalent in natural colors like olive, brown, black etc. for some dries. 6/0 can be a little clumsy on small flies.

 

[brownbass]

I too started tying recently and a lot of my tying is done with 70 UTC. I use it for almost all of the tying I do. Then again I tie a lot of smaller flies like Zebra midges and Griffith gnats. Of course, heavier threads would be used on Ruber legged stoneflies and such. I use 140 on my Beatles and Chernoble ants or any of the foam flies.

Bill