I like what he does and he explains it quite well, but I could never tolerate the equipment he is using for more than a brush or two. Case in point, the permanent attachments at both ends regardless of material length.
I prefer to go basic on brush making boards because it allows one to position the material section at one end, twist to grab, and then reposition the spinning hook as close to the material as deemed necessary. Far more efficient and results in a better twist through the material with less effort.
If the wire twist on the bare sections gets to extremes, it’ll break before the material section is nicely twisted with lighter wires. Some materials resist and shunt it to the bare wire.
Love the (handled) brushes he uses. Have several pairs of dog brushes (slickers) for dubbing mixers, with both wire and plastic tines, and they are the best tool thus far for combing and “fuzzing” long brushes of mixed materials. Very affordable from your local farm supply, but stay away from pet shop prices on these.
Being more of a synthetics guy I’ve never tried a feather or two the way Gunnar does, but may do just that in the future. Ain’t gonna be marrying with UV cure resin, more like making 10 sets ahead of time with simpler adhesives and getting it all ready for a spin-only session.
Very impressed by this man’s gauging of brush length-to-fly size. Mine have always been made and treated of more like long lengths of chenille where I use what I need, clip, and use the rest on another tie until it’s gone. Some brushes are 12”-14” and I’ve never paid much mind to how much is used on what size streamers. The taper idea certainly warrants awareness of this brush making facet, more like real fly tying than what I’m accustomed to.
