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  1. #11

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    I assume you don't normally tie dries?, if so and you want to practice, remember that a good quality hen hackle will float a fly just as well as a cock hackle, once treated. Anything other than foam will have a hard time floating a hook without treatment, the hook will even pull deer hair underwater once it's been wet.
    It helps to treat the materials, with whatever waterproofing agent you choose, before you tie the fly, I use Gink.

  2. #12

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    Do any of you remember the Swisher-Richards no hackle flies? I never got into "match the hatch" never fished or tied their flies. Have any of you had any experience with the no-hackle patterns?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Crowded Colorado
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    2,047

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    I would start with something simple to tie, as in something that doesn't take a lot of material, like a Griffiths Gnat. A very simple fly consisting of a hook, tinsel, peacock herl, and grizzly hackle. Get hackle from the rooster, not the hen.

    Another fly to follow the G. Gnat would be the Renegade. It's very similar to the G. Gnat. Just white and brown hackle at either end, but the body is still peacock herl. Brookies love them too.

    Brookies are aggressive fish, and they, from what I have experienced, will pretty much take anything you offer them.

    So start off simple, and go from there.
    The only thing human kind ever learned through history, is that through history, human kind has learned nothing.

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  5. #14

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    Whiting farms 100 saddle hackle packs go for around $20. Great dry fly hackle in small packs that are sorted by hook size to take the guess work out of feather selection. They claim you get 100 flies out of each pack. The smaller the dry, the harder the tie, so you may want to look at 14-16. Check your local hatch charts before you buy the hackle. They will usually tell you what size flies will work.

    For a streamer suggestion, you can't go wrong with wooly buggers. Olive or black are traditionally great colors, and you can find tons of recipes on line.

    For bass streamers, the Clouser is by far my favorite pattern. All you need for it is bucktail, hooks (I like #4 gamakatsu stingers), krystal flash, medium painted lead barbell eye, and 6/0 or 140 denier thread.

    If you haven't already found it, check out the thread: What have you been tying today?

  6. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Manning, S. C. (formerly MD)
    Posts
    3,178

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    For bass streamers, the Clouser is by far my favorite pattern. All you need for it is bucktail, hooks (I like #4 gamakatsu stingers), krystal flash, medium painted lead barbell eye, and 6/0 or 140 denier thread.
    Clouser Minnows are excellent flies! There is a video done by Bob Clouser, and Bob has very specific reasons for how he ties the fly. Watch the video and pay attention to what he says.

    Also, lead barbell eyes are used often, but you may also consider the brass eyes. I still use lead, but use more brass, because for one thing, the lead tends to break if the fly strikes anything hard. I've had them break in the vise too. I have no issue with using lead otherwise, as I also pour jigs, and it will sink a fly faster than the brass, but the brass is a very good option for a lot of fishing situations.
    Remember, no one likes to be behind the big truck, but that's better than being under it!

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  8. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Hudsonville, Michigan
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    1,568
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    13

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    Quote Originally Posted by cpiercem View Post
    You've been given some great advice already, but there is one trick you can put to use to increase the number of flies you can tie without increasing a lot of material. Good waterproof markers.

    With markers you can change the color of a strand of grizzly hackle rather than buying a whole bunch of feathers in a different color. That way you can try a new fly color out with the materials you already have. Later you can always buy or dye some feathers in the colors that work for you.

    They can be used on lots of other materials too from fur to synthetic. You can add bars to rubber legs, add a hot spot to a fly, add bars or streaks to a streamer.

    I usually have a few markers on the stream with me to change a fly to match the hatch when I have nothing close.
    I do this very same thing and just to add to what Cindy has suggested is also getting some Sharpie NEON markers. These are UV and when hit with a UV light they glow. I usually tie with white thread and it's nice to have several options to change thread and material colors without buying a bunch of everything.

    Denny

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  10. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    quiet corner, ct
    Posts
    9,143

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    When I was 13, I didn't have a lot of spending money and the closest fly shop was a full days bike ride away, so I'd tie my flies from what ever I could find.
    Yarn, copper wire, feathers on the ground, roadkill...Skinned a lot of road kill
    Squirrels, fox, woodchuck, songbirds, muskrat. Even a skunk once. (That didn't turn out very well actually. )
    But if you're resourceful you can tie flies from plenty of things you can find around that won't cost you a nickle.
    I'm very sure that I could go back to tying that way and be quite successful
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements. --- Horace Kephart

  11. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    quiet corner, ct
    Posts
    9,143

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyshishido View Post
    Do any of you remember the Swisher-Richards no hackle flies? I never got into "match the hatch" never fished or tied their flies. Have any of you had any experience with the no-hackle patterns?
    I found those to be more difficult to tie than they were worth. At least for me.
    For a no-hackle, Comparadun style is much easier and at least as effective.
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements. --- Horace Kephart

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  13. #19

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyshishido View Post
    Do any of you remember the Swisher-Richards no hackle flies? I never got into "match the hatch" never fished or tied their flies. Have any of you had any experience with the no-hackle patterns?
    I agree completely with Rip. They are extremely difficult to tie correctly. The problem is that unless the wings are exactly identical in size, shape, and slant on the fly; the fly will spin and twist the tippet.

    Having said that, there are times when a no-hackle will catch fish when a comparadun/sparkle dun or parachute will not. So I save the no hackles for those times. I do not waste them on "ordinary" selective trout.

    It is obvious that any asymmetry of the wings would cause the fly below to spin. The wings look exactly and perform exactly as sails and sails are designed to catch the wind.

    Regards,

    Silver



    "Discovery consists of seeing what everybody has seen and thinking what nobody has thought"..........Szent-Gyorgy

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  15. #20

    Default Re: What Materials Should I Buy

    Thanks for the suggestions and as for road kills in the fall when we butchered our ducks i got a lot of CDC and biots flank feathers and from rabbits that we killed hunting i made some dubbing ect.

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