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Thread: Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

  1. Angry Re: Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

    After a lot of online research and trying a pair of the boots on at a fly shop, I finally bought the boots. I'm not very impressed. I know that I'm not the strong wader I was in my 30's or even 40's, but after all the reading I did on how these boots almost magically grab onto the rocks, I was very displeased to find this not to be the case. Unfortunately, the reviews I read that said the boots made the ankles sore proved true. For a person who kind of grew up with Patagonia back in my climbing days and loved their equipment and clothing back then, I am very disapointed with the boots. Keep trying Yvon. I know you can do better.

    --TBR

  2. #12

    Default Re: Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

    Quote Originally Posted by ramset View Post
    I also found these boots pretty heavy. I used to own them (gottem for a trip to AK) but sold them soon after. They worked fine for the alaska trip, and I'd definitely recommend them to anyone that primarily fishes from a drift boat and wants to occassionally wade, but for the guy/gal that primarily wades- these are definitely too expensive to recommend. The alum. bars "skate" across most rocks unless your weight is absolutely centered on them (which isn't usually the case). Got Korkers metalheads, and those coupled w/ the svelte 2 soles are the best traction I've ever had.
    This confirms my suspicions that the boots were great for drift boats and were also on the heavy side. Thanks for all the information.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Rochester, Vermont
    Posts
    347

    Default Re: Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

    I have had these boots for about 6 months now and I really like them. I have a bad knee and stability is very important to me, which is why I spent the 9 million dollars they cost. At first, it felt (and sounded to me) like I was walking on crushed aluminum beer cans, but the soft aluminum rounded off pretty quickly and that went away. I think there is no doubt that they are more stable than felt. I have hiked quite a bit in them in and out of the woods on rock paths and never had problem. They are heavy, but they are very well made (though maybe really not quite worth 9 million dollars). I have complete confidence in them now and that means quite a lot.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Rochester, Vermont
    Posts
    347

    Default Re: Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

    Here is an update now after about a year and a half:

    I still like the gripping power on the rocks, but they are heavy and they are now beginning to deteriorate. Whatever the insulated plastic material is on the outside surface is beginning to tear around the lace hooks. Screws have fallen out of the bars. The laces are getting tattered a little early in their life (at least to me) and these were very expensive boots (made in Thailand).

    I am going to return them for a new pair. I'll stick with the brand, but the blush is off the rose...

  5. #15

    Default Re: Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

    It's amazing how Patagonia still fails to make a durable wading boot?...

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    buena vista,colorado
    Posts
    489

    Default Re: Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

    When I first saw a picture of those boots with the bars on them I thought little snowboards on the boots,step on a rock and slide sideways.SIMMS!!!!!!!!!!!!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    White City (tad north of Medford) Oar-E-Gone
    Posts
    10,677

    Default Re: Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

    Quote Originally Posted by thewalker1013 View Post
    Will they booger up a boat?
    In a word: 'No.'

    Actually 'retro-fitting' an existing set of felt bottom boots will take about 30'ish minutes. First hit a Lowe's/whom-ever and get a flat allie bar (they're usually about 1/4 to 3/8th's thick and a box of screws. Screw lenght is the thickness of the bar + 1/2 inch. Only other thing you may need is the small bottle of Gorilla Glue if you don't already have some in the garage (fabO-U lust product!)

    Measure the bottom of your boot in three places (bar placement under the main part of the foot) and the heel (this should be the same for both boots).

    Now cut a length of bar that's 1/4 short on both ends. Drill three or four holes in each of the four sections and counter sink so the screw head is 'flush' with the bar.

    Now the glue! GG is water activated (it actually expands as it drys) and you're almost ready to put on the bars. Here's the choice: Do you want to drill tiny 'pilot holes' for the screws or not (far easier if you do, but takes a bit of practice with bar vs sheet metal screws.

    Long way, but the best way ...... drill the pilot holes with the bar in place, put in the screws and then back them out. Well, leave one in on one end to help realign the bar. WET THE FELT!!! apply a good drop of GG to the screw threads and back into the pilot holes. Tighten down and 'job done' for one hell of a long time.

    Pilot holes: The drill bit used is the width of the center shaft of the screw NOT the whole thing!

    Why Allie bars/sheet metal screws work so well. Allie is a very soft metal so it will 'grab' on almost anything. As an example of this just run a drift boat up on a river rock and it can be a pain where you sit to get it off. Same thing is going on there as with the bottom of your boots.

    fae
    When wealth is lost, nothing is lost; when health is lost, something is lost; when character is lost, all is lost. - Billy Graham"

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