Patagonia Rock Grip Wading Boot-Aluminum Bar

kwb

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I recently needed a new pair of wading boots, I found myself in a dilemma.

I wanted a boot I could fish anywhere, which took felt out of the game with the recent bans on felt soled wading boots.

I wanted something that would grip well on slimy rocks and that took the new rubber soled wading boots out of the game.

I also wanted something that wouldn't destroy the floor on my boat which took studded rubber soled wading boots out of the game.

Basically the only option I was left with was the newer Patagonia boots which utilize aluminum bars as a traction device. I was pretty skeptical of how well they would perform, but I knew if I didn't like them, Patagonia would take them back.

Then I seen the price and was sticker shocked to say the least, however, I thought, what other choice do I really have.

So I ordered a pair and have now used them quite a few times in a variety of situations and to put it bluntly, they are the best boots I have ever used. Extremely comfy and they stick like glue to even the slickest of rocks. The build quality is typical of Patagonia, very good and if you ever have an issue, my experiences with their customer service have always been stellar.

Just thought some people would appreciate a review of sorts on what I consider to be the solution to my dilemma...
 

dean_mt

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How are they when hiking through the woods, a mile down a gravel road, along the river bank, etc.? That is my concern.

Thanks!
 

kwb

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I walked along a rip rap bank with large chunks of concrete, dry concrete, they worked great there...

As far as just walking down a trail in the woods or a gravel road, they would be just fine...

They give you better grip than just felt would in any of the circumstances you mentioned...

I have used mine in all kinds of terrain, never felt the need for more traction...

---------- Post added at 03:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:49 PM ----------

I will also add, I found them to give superior traction on slippery rocks than any felt or rubber soled boots with studs ever have given me...
 

fredaevans

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Guys, allie-mum-um on the bottom of boots is 'old school.' Dan Bailey had there 'Stream Cleats' out years ago (no longer make them) but you could run up the side of a tree with these 'over-boot' things. Clunky? Without question. Did you go for long walks (save for in the water) with them on your regular wading boots? Not a chance. Pain to put on when needed? So yes.

But for fifty bucks the best life insurance policy you could buy. The soft allie-bars on the bottom would grab-hold on to anything ... including the polished lava slab rock bottom on the North Umpqua or Deschutes here in Oregon.

Posted this up before (where-ever) and retrofitting existing boots with allie-bars is total simples. Hit a big box hardware store and get a flat bit of alli bar (1/4" thick is best) and (if you don't already have same) two drill bits. One to drill through the bar (thread of screw size) and one to counter-sink the screw head.

Screw length is 3/4 of the thickness of the bar and 3/4 into the bottom of your boot bottom. (Give or take!:shades:)

Measure/cut the bar to boot width (two for heel, 3 or four for the rest. Drill the screw holes, counter sink so screw head is below the bar and zip in. Almost forgot: a small bottle of Gorilla Glue (or water proof) and put a squirt of that on the screw heads. Once that sets up, the screws/bars aren't going anywhere unless you want.

fae
 

shotgunfly

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Been wearing these for a year now.

Compared to the Patagonia Riverwalker sticky rubber boots, they do well in freestone waters.

Beware that if you step on a branch right in the instep of the boot you can slip and fall..there's just smooth rubber in that area.

The metal clasps for the laces up around the ankle are a little bit too close together. When lacing them up sometimes the laces get around the wrong clasps. Small inconvenience.

I gave it a value of 6, now that I know I can probably turn my old sticky bottom rock grips into aluminum bar rock grips. I may try that this summer.

I've found them to be heavy. Going to get a new pair of their ultralight felt bottom boots and add on the River crampons if I feel like I need it.

==========
Update 2/8/14
Starting to not like these boots. Whenever my foot get's sideways on a inclined bank where the bars are parallel to the upward slope of the bank, you can't help but SLIDE. There is just NO traction between the bars.

Also the hooks that hold the lace have actually cut one of the laces.

Really, really thinking of dumping these boots this year.
 
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gfirob

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I just bought a pair of these based on all the reviews on line, but I did find out that Patagonia will sell you the entire system -- bars, threaded inserts and bolts -- as replacements, for both boots for $29. They have very detailed instructions on line as a pdf. The problem I saw in checking this out is that the Patagonia boot is entirely flat-soled under the aluminium, but any lugged boot is going to have spaces under some of the bolt holes, and I wasn't sure how much of a problem that might be. So I bit the bullet and bought the new boots. Have not received them yet.
 

shotgunfly

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How are they when hiking through the woods, a mile down a gravel road, along the river bank, etc.? That is my concern.

Thanks!
Oye. Kinda late on getting in on this one. I wore them on a 1.2 mile hike through the woods. On a path covered in rocks, leaves, mud, dirt, sticks. I did find myself slipping a bit on dry rocks.

They are kinda heavy.
 

ramset

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I also found these boots pretty heavy. I used to own them (gottem for a trip to AK) but sold them soon after. They worked fine for the alaska trip, and I'd definitely recommend them to anyone that primarily fishes from a drift boat and wants to occassionally wade, but for the guy/gal that primarily wades- these are definitely too expensive to recommend. The alum. bars "skate" across most rocks unless your weight is absolutely centered on them (which isn't usually the case). Got Korkers metalheads, and those coupled w/ the svelte 2 soles are the best traction I've ever had.
 

tbroberts

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After a lot of online research and trying a pair of the boots on at a fly shop, I finally bought the boots. I'm not very impressed. I know that I'm not the strong wader I was in my 30's or even 40's, but after all the reading I did on how these boots almost magically grab onto the rocks, I was very displeased to find this not to be the case. Unfortunately, the reviews I read that said the boots made the ankles sore proved true. For a person who kind of grew up with Patagonia back in my climbing days and loved their equipment and clothing back then, I am very disapointed with the boots. Keep trying Yvon. I know you can do better.

--TBR
 

kuch

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I also found these boots pretty heavy. I used to own them (gottem for a trip to AK) but sold them soon after. They worked fine for the alaska trip, and I'd definitely recommend them to anyone that primarily fishes from a drift boat and wants to occassionally wade, but for the guy/gal that primarily wades- these are definitely too expensive to recommend. The alum. bars "skate" across most rocks unless your weight is absolutely centered on them (which isn't usually the case). Got Korkers metalheads, and those coupled w/ the svelte 2 soles are the best traction I've ever had.
This confirms my suspicions that the boots were great for drift boats and were also on the heavy side. Thanks for all the information.
 

gfirob

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I have had these boots for about 6 months now and I really like them. I have a bad knee and stability is very important to me, which is why I spent the 9 million dollars they cost. At first, it felt (and sounded to me) like I was walking on crushed aluminum beer cans, but the soft aluminum rounded off pretty quickly and that went away. I think there is no doubt that they are more stable than felt. I have hiked quite a bit in them in and out of the woods on rock paths and never had problem. They are heavy, but they are very well made (though maybe really not quite worth 9 million dollars). I have complete confidence in them now and that means quite a lot.
 

gfirob

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Here is an update now after about a year and a half:

I still like the gripping power on the rocks, but they are heavy and they are now beginning to deteriorate. Whatever the insulated plastic material is on the outside surface is beginning to tear around the lace hooks. Screws have fallen out of the bars. The laces are getting tattered a little early in their life (at least to me) and these were very expensive boots (made in Thailand).

I am going to return them for a new pair. I'll stick with the brand, but the blush is off the rose...
 

ibookje

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It's amazing how Patagonia still fails to make a durable wading boot?...
 

winstonwt

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When I first saw a picture of those boots with the bars on them I thought little snowboards on the boots,step on a rock and slide sideways.SIMMS!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

fredaevans

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Will they booger up a boat?
In a word: 'No.'

Actually 'retro-fitting' an existing set of felt bottom boots will take about 30'ish minutes. First hit a Lowe's/whom-ever and get a flat allie bar (they're usually about 1/4 to 3/8th's thick and a box of screws. Screw lenght is the thickness of the bar + 1/2 inch. Only other thing you may need is the small bottle of Gorilla Glue if you don't already have some in the garage (fabO-U lust product!)

Measure the bottom of your boot in three places (bar placement under the main part of the foot) and the heel (this should be the same for both boots).

Now cut a length of bar that's 1/4 short on both ends. Drill three or four holes in each of the four sections and counter sink so the screw head is 'flush' with the bar.

Now the glue! GG is water activated (it actually expands as it drys) and you're almost ready to put on the bars. Here's the choice: Do you want to drill tiny 'pilot holes' for the screws or not (far easier if you do, but takes a bit of practice with bar vs sheet metal screws.

Long way, but the best way ...... drill the pilot holes with the bar in place, put in the screws and then back them out. Well, leave one in on one end to help realign the bar. WET THE FELT!!! apply a good drop of GG to the screw threads and back into the pilot holes. Tighten down and 'job done' for one hell of a long time.

Pilot holes: The drill bit used is the width of the center shaft of the screw NOT the whole thing!:eek:

Why Allie bars/sheet metal screws work so well. Allie is a very soft metal so it will 'grab' on almost anything. As an example of this just run a drift boat up on a river rock and it can be a pain where you sit to get it off. Same thing is going on there as with the bottom of your boots.

fae
 
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