How much $ to replace a Cork handle?

[ausablebrown]

Just a quick question; how much (generally speaking) would my local rod builder charge to replace the cork handle on my rod? He's closed from Mon-Wed so I can't call him up, thought I might get an idea from you guys to know if he is reasonably priced or not. It is coming unglued and I am assuming that the solution would be to take it off and put a new cork handle on. Anyone got a rough estimate, or anyone rod/builders/repairers want to make me an offer?
-Jason

 

[fredaevans]

Replacing the handle is not that big a job for someone who has the 'equipment' (lathe etc). What really costs is the quality of the cork you want to replace same with.

Cork ring is what, a half inch or less wide? But you can easily pay $2.00 per ring for AAAA quality.:icon_eek:

fae

 

[ausablebrown]

Replacing the handle is not that big a job for someone who has the 'equipment' (lathe etc). What really costs is the quality of the cork you want to replace same with.

Cork ring is what, a half inch or less wide? But you can easily pay $2.00 per ring for AAAA quality.:icon_eek:

fae

So, you'd say there could be $20-30 in materials? Any idea how extensive the job is and what a reasonable price would be?

 

[raindogt]

I may be wrong, But it is my understanding that the rod has to be stripped down (at least the butt section)-- and cork put on from the tip end. So, any guides will need to come off and re-wrapped after the cork replacement, the hook keeper, likewise, etc....

Could be costly.

 

[fredaevans]

So, you'd say there could be $20-30 in materials? Any idea how extensive the job is and what a reasonable price would be?

Jason, a few "x-factors" here.

The ".... $20-30 in materials?" suggests this is a small handle so taking off the old, and cleaning up the butt of the blank would only take a few minutes. Not that big of a job (again, if you have the proper equipment, which I'll assume he does). The other 'x-factor' is if he's got to pull off/re-wrap/coat the rod guides above so he can feed the corks down to re-build the handle. And I think I'm safe to say .. he will.

All that aside, one to two hours work on his part, start to finish. So his 'bid' will be 'time, materials, and profit.' Guys got to eat and pay his rent.

Fred

 

[ausablebrown]

There are no guides on the butt section, but there is a hook keeper, and a nickel/silver ring that sits between the last section of cork and the rod.

 

[fredaevans]

There are no guides on the butt section, but there is a hook keeper, and a nickel/silver ring that sits between the last section of cork and the rod.

No guides? That's a bit odd, but what the heck. 'Usual' guide placement will have a 'gathering guide' about 24" up from the reel seat. But the ring your talking about cost 10-15 cents .. if you even want one.

That aside, save for a multi-multi-section 'travel rod,' I can't picture a rod with out at least one guide in the 'butt section.' What kind of rod do you have?

fae

 

[ausablebrown]

No guides? That's a bit odd, but what the heck. 'Usual' guide placement will have a 'gathering guide' about 24" up from the reel seat. But the ring your talking about cost 10-15 cents .. if you even want one.

That aside, save for a multi-multi-section 'travel rod,' I can't picture a rod with out at least one guide in the 'butt section.' What kind of rod do you have?

fae

BIIX 9' 4pc; you made me double check though, and there is no guide on the first section of rod.

 

[fredaevans]

Googled the rod, and so it would appear, very unusual .. but what do I know.

Is this the same one you put up for sale?: http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/f...onal/90390-new-winston-biix-9-5-wt-375-a.html

 

[ausablebrown]

Googled the rod, and so it would appear, very unusual .. but what do I know.

Is this the same one you put up for sale?: http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/f...onal/90390-new-winston-biix-9-5-wt-375-a.html

No, but oddly enough, I now may have two of them by a very strange turn of events. The new one; which I will again offer for sale if I can get this used one and be sure its not going to cost a fortune to fix the cork. I might just let it ride and fish with the cork how it is until something has to be done. It would probably fish a few years, just getting a little unglued around the top couple rings. I never thought I'd have one BIIX, let alone two...but the prices were too good to pass up

 

[swirlchaser]

Make sure it's done by a reputable rodbuilder. I've seen plenty of pre-fab forgrips that look like Flor grade cork but they are actually cheap cork that's been filled and sanded. After 2 months of use holes just start to "appear".
My advise? rub a few drops of wood glue into the gap, wipe it off with a damp cloth and fish on...

---------- Post added at 06:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:17 PM ----------

No, but oddly enough, I now may have two of them by a very strange turn of events. The new one; which I will again offer for sale if I can get this used one and be sure its not going to cost a fortune to fix the cork. I might just let it ride and fish with the cork how it is until something has to be done. It would probably fish a few years, just getting a little unglued around the top couple rings. I never thought I'd have one BIIX, let alone two...but the prices were too good to pass up

Don't Winstons have and unconditional, lifetime warranty?

 

[304rodco]

How is the cork coming loose? The grip might be able to be repaired without removing the entire thing. If it just a few rings, those are relatively easy to cut out and replace individually.

 

[swirlchaser]

How is the cork coming loose? The grip might be able to be repaired without removing the entire thing. If it just a few rings, those are relatively easy to cut out and replace individually.

That has never worked for me. Could never get a clean enough cut for the new rings to but up against. I would definately build a full grip. However, like I said before. Winston has an unconditional, lifetime warranty. Just send it back.

 

[mojo]

I agree with swirlchaser. If you're the original owner, and sent in the warranty card, send the rod to Winston. Let them repair it. It'll be around $30+ to have them repair it. (shipping back to you) If you go to the shop you bought it from, let them ship it back.
If you bought it second hand I'd still call Winston to quote you the price of the repair, and have them do it. That way it's done by the manufacturer and done right. (Not saying your local guy wouldn't do it right.)

 

[Ard]

Jason,

I'm not posting with any advice but I'm curious. I have 18 fly rods, the one in my avatar was built in 1964. Several others are older than that but I don't know the date. None of my grips have ever came apart. My 1979 Orvis Far & Fine has thousands of hours hand time and the rings are tight, so...............

Do you have any idea why the grip has failed on a Winston rod?

Ard

 

[swirlchaser]

Jason,

I'm not posting with any advice but I'm curious. I have 18 fly rods, the one in my avatar was built in 1964. Several others are older than that but I don't know the date. None of my grips have ever came apart. My 1979 Orvis Far & Fine has thousands of hours hand time and the rings are tight, so...............

Do you have any idea why the grip has failed on a Winston rod?

Ard

I've noticed that on my saltwater rods my grips get far more abuse. Mostly due to the amount of casting and false casting I do with them. The first 3-4 rings (where my thumb rests) probably get more pressure that they should. I also have a bad habit of sticking my fly there instead of using the perfectly good hook keeper that came with the rod. :icon_eek:

 

[304rodco]

If you carefully cut away the cork with razor above the glue joint, you can peel the cork off the other ring for a clean fit. You then break the ring in half, ream out the cork a bit and join it over the rod. I use Titebond for the glue and hold it in place with a rubber band.

 

[ausablebrown]

Jason,

I'm not posting with any advice but I'm curious. I have 18 fly rods, the one in my avatar was built in 1964. Several others are older than that but I don't know the date. None of my grips have ever came apart. My 1979 Orvis Far & Fine has thousands of hours hand time and the rings are tight, so...............

Do you have any idea why the grip has failed on a Winston rod?

Ard

I got it second hand; it had been used by an avid fisherman and probably saw a couple hundred days or more on the water. The top two rings or so just seem to have come unstuck (I am assuming that they are glued to begin with); either through wetting/drying, or continued pressure in the same direction. Im thinking that it will fish for plenty more time without actually coming apart, but it just bugs me that it gives a little. When I grab it right up by the end and squeeze it, it gives a little, and you can feel that the cork is not squeezing the blank beneath it really tightly. It also squeaks a tad if I grab it and twist; I guess the cork squeaking against the blank. I'm not saying that it has "failed" yet, but it could be on its way to failure over a couple of years. It was such a good deal, that I figured I'd get it and deal with the cork if it becomes more of an issue in the future.

Now I'm curious, I think Ill shoot Winston an e-mail and see if they have a standard charge for replacing the cork...It's too good of a rod to retire it, even if they want a small fortune, the rest of the rod is not beat up at all.

 

[Ard]

I may be out on a limb here but considering the price of Winston fly rods I would think they would want to take care of that. I know Orvis will, even if it was my 64'

 

[wjc]

I've noticed that on my saltwater rods my grips get far more abuse.

Me too. My 12 wt Sage is missing 3 top rings and another is loose. An 8 wt Orvis Boron has 6 up top loose. As soon as I get a new 11 wt, the 12 wt will go in. Both those rods have cigar and not Wells grips, so there is less surface area for the glue joints between rings. Once they get loose, they don't last long. I don't use the boron any more, but probably should get it fixed to have for another spare. The 12 wt, I can't get repaired yet because I use it nearly every month of the year.

It's perfectly obvious that I desperately need an 11 wt., even before modern 9 and 10 wts.

Cheers,
Jim