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Thread: adding loop to fly line?

  1. #1

    Default adding loop to fly line?

    I have an otherwise mint S.A WF6 that the welded loop got cut off. I tried one of the Rio mesh loops, but it tends to sink when wet. Im thinking of using a nail knot and adding some mono to the end of the line and tieing a loop in that. My questions is what weight line do you recommend. 20 lb tends to cut through the outer coating on the fly line when pulled hard.
    The best laid plans of mice and men...

  2. #2
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    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    To me, the thickness of the mono is more important than the pound test rating. It should not be bigger than the end of the fly line. For most 6 weight fly lines, .024" monofilament works the best.

    The industry standard for butt sections is Hal Janssen's Leader Control in 30 pound test (.024" diameter). It is also the same product as clear Amnesia in just different packaging.

    After you tie your nail knot, it is recommended that you coat the knot with some sort of sealant. This coating will help keep moisture from wicking into the fly line. At the shop, Rio UV Knot Sealer is used.

    MP

    ---------- Post added at 10:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 PM ----------

    Or you could weld your own loops. It's pretty easy.

    MP
    Last edited by MoscaPescador; 10-28-2009 at 01:37 AM. Reason: grammar

  3. #3

    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    I second Mosca's recommendation. I put a short piece of Red Amnesia on the end of all my fly lines with a loop (I use furled leaders). Seal it off and you are good to go.
    It's not the heat, it's the stupidity.
    What manner of jackassery will I be subjected to today?

  4. #4
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    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    I had an SA GPX loop pop off a month ago, and decided to make another.
    Joni and Frank Whiton have posted pics of loops they've made, and both
    say they work well. I cut the end of the line at a 45 degree angle, and glued
    it to the line, doubling the line over roughly the same amount as from the
    factory. I used CA glue to get a quick bond, and seal the end. I then used
    red 6/0 tying thread to bind the doubled over line together, and size the loop.
    Joni reports success with Sally Hansen Hard as Nails to seal the thread, so I bought bottle for
    $2. The resulting loop is almost as supple as a factory looped end, and it floats
    great. I've used that line a lot since making the loop, and everything is
    great so far.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    Quote Originally Posted by FrankB2 View Post
    I had an SA GPX loop pop off a month ago, and decided to make another.
    Joni and Frank Whiton have posted pics of loops they've made, and both
    say they work well. I cut the end of the line at a 45 degree angle, and glued
    it to the line, doubling the line over roughly the same amount as from the
    factory. I used CA glue to get a quick bond, and seal the end. I then used
    red 6/0 tying thread to bind the doubled over line together, and size the loop.
    Joni reports success with Sally Hansen Hard as Nails to seal the thread, so I bought bottle for
    $2. The resulting loop is almost as supple as a factory looped end, and it floats
    great. I've used that line a lot since making the loop, and everything is
    great so far.
    I use the doubled over line as a loop on all of my higher weight lines. I tie mine with kevlar thread and use two or three whipped finish knots. Others would suggest 2 nail knots.
    I would not use the Sally's nail polish as a coating however. It's not flexable and will eventually crack
    I like Goop because it's very easy to work with, but I've also used brightly colored fabric paint as a sealant.
    A good choice if you want to include a built in strike indicator.
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements.” --- Horace Kephart

  6. #6
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    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    I should have mentioned that I only gave the thread two light coats of
    Sally Hansen's. I don't know that it gives the thread much stength, and
    used it to only to seal the thread. I also tapered the thread that it is
    thicker nearest the loop end, and only a couple wraps thick toward away from
    the loop. It's tough to detect any hinging point, and pretty much equal to
    the factory loop in that sense. I wasn't worried about a hinge point in casting
    terms, but didn't want to create a spot where the line was going to crack
    again.

    I'll look into the Goop.

    EDIT Here's a diagram for whip finishing a loop: http://barflyfish.com/article_whippi...n_fly_line.htm

    ---------- Post added at 11:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:34 AM ----------

    Hey Riptide,
    Which type of Goop do you use? I looked up the product, and they have a
    few different flavors.
    Last edited by FrankB2; 10-28-2009 at 10:55 AM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    Hey Riptide,
    Which type of Goop do you use? I looked up the product, and they have a
    few different flavors.
    They're all the same
    The only difference is that 2 are thinner (Shoe Goo and Craft), and a few have VU protection (The 'outdoor' ones)

    To use it, just touch the line where the wrappings are to the top of the tube
    This will pick up the slightest amount.... just what you need
    Wet your finger and thumb and just roll it around into a 'football' shape
    Only takes a few seconds and by the time your done shaping , it's dry
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements.” --- Horace Kephart

  8. #8
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    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    Hi Everyone,

    Here is the low down on the types of Goop.

    · Amazing GOOP® and Craft GOOP® contain a thinner formula for precise, detailed work.
    · Wood & Furniture GOOP® is a thicker, non-slump formula perfect for vertical and overhead applications.
    · Automotive GOOP®, Household GOOP® and Plumbing GOOP® are all the same formula.
    · Lawn & Garden GOOP®, Marine GOOP®, RV GOOP® and Sport and Outdoor GOOP® are all UV-resistant.
    · Shoe GOO® is a more rubbery formula allowing for greater flexibility.

    I used Goop all over Alaska. We never went on a trip with out a tube of Shoe Goop and Household Goop. I finally gravitated to the Shoe Goop. It is thicker than the Craft Goop but stays very flexible. On one trip I had to glue a sole back on a boot. I used that boot for years after that and never had a problem with it. It walked just like the other sole. Same with a pair of hip boots. I had two or three patches done with Shoe Goop and they never leaked at the patch. I use to know how to thin Goop but I forget what I used. My favorite is Pliobond that is thin and stays flexible.

    Frank, I want to get the pictures back up for the splice I do. I lost them with the Gallery change over. It is the least obtrusive of the loops and is strong.

    Frank
    Last edited by Frank Whiton; 11-19-2009 at 09:13 AM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    Couldnt get the line to weld at all so i used a double nail knot and covered the whole mess with shrink tube. Overall it looks very good and seems to be very strong. I sealed the deal with super glue. Ill let you all know how it works out for me.
    The best laid plans of mice and men...

  10. #10
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    Default Re: adding loop to fly line?

    CHH,
    I should have warned you that after you get the technique down, it's very easy. If your line is a SA floating line, the coating should have fused together. If you have some old lines that you don't use, try practicing on those. It took me at least five attempts to get it right.

    There are some coatings (mostly on sink tips or sinking lines) that will not weld together.

    MP

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