Is ferrule wax necessary?

[nick k]

When Orvis fixed my rod and sent it back last year, they included a small containing of ferrule wax. I have never used ferrule wax before, and it has never seemed all that necessary or helpful to me.

Are you supposed to use it all the time, or just for long outings?

 

[FrankB2]

I use it sometimes, about as often as I turn clocks back each year.

Why Orvis sent the wax might depend on where the rod broke. If it broke at the ferrule, they might be suggesting that some wax would help seat the ferrules better than not using wax at all. If that's the case, a little every now and then is the procedure I see used most often. The wax is super sticky, but you should check the ferrules (male and female) for grit. The male part is easy, and you can run a Q-Tip inside the larger female ferrule ends. The smaller sections can be cleaned with a piece of rolled paper towel. That works for me, and something I do regardless of whether they've been waxed.

 

[1move]

If you never used it how do you know its not helpful? It actually makes things a little easier and increases the life of the ferrule. It allows for a tighter connection, and wears down the ferrule less. I use it maybe 2 - 6 times per year depending on how much I go fishing.

From their website;

"Extend the life of your fly rods with Orvis Ferrule Wax. Eliminates friction and wear when putting fly rods together and taking them apart. Lubricates the ferrule as it flexes during use and prevents undo wear and tear. Allows the ferrule to engage deeper and more firmly eliminating loosening and potential damage. Lubricate the male end and insert with a 90 degree twist for best results."

 

[rayzor]

I use it on my 1wt troutbum, when I've got cabin fever.. makes me feel a bit better

 

[littledavid123]

I use the Orvis ferrule wax fairly often, after every third fishing day. But prior to each use I clean the old off with a clean rag. With my new Far & Fine I gently tried putting together without the wax and felt a lot of friction, used the wax and it was much better. Besides if the rod manufacturer thinks enough of the wax to send it with the rod, there's a valid reason for it.

Dave

 

[wjc]

I think it's a good idea to wax graphite ferrules. I just use parafin wax, and smear it around between thumb and forfinger to get it as thin as possible.

I did not use wax on the nickel silver ferrules on my bamboo rods because they would not fit properly with wax on them. In fact, the rod bag tag on a bamboo rod of mine specifically states to use them dry.

 

[jaybo41]

When at home, I use compressed air to clean out grit from the female ferrules. Works great.

I don't use ferrule wax much on my rout rods and probably should but I do use it on the switch rod religiously.

 

[Noiso]

My first rod, an 8'6" 3-piece 4wt. was built by a friend. After a year or two the top piece would occasionally end up in the water when I cast. Ferrule wax solved the problem.

 

[rayzor]

My first rod, an 8'6" 3-piece 4wt. was built by a friend. After a year or two the top piece would occasionally end up in the water when I cast. Ferrule wax solved the problem.

Noiso , I had an Orvis 8'6" 4-piece 4wt T3, that did exactly the same...

Ferrule Wax was the answer:thumbsup:

 

[coug]

A friend put me on the stuff a few years ago. I was taking apart my spey rod and could not get the sections undone easily, and you could hear them squeak when I was trying to twist them. He jumped out of his truck and grabbed his wax and did my rod up right there in the parking lot. Worked very, very well. I bought some and now do all of my rods. I think well made rods fit very tightly, and it prevents possible damage when trying to get them apart.

 

[plecain]

Some rod manufacturers include the wax with their rods.
I don't think they'd waste the money, small though the amount is, if they didn't think it was a good idea to use the wax.
I use it every time I put the rods away after a trip.

 

[nick k]

I guess ill try it out this spring.

 

[Rip Tide]

Ya ever cast off your rod tip ?
Then you know why you need to wax

 

[sean_k]

I use it on my beach fishing rods where I tend to cast for distance on a regular basis. Given that Im consistently cast with alot of power I have found ferrules will loosen through out the day. Using wax it seems to help maintain a better ferrule connection and I no longer have ferrels come loose on me.

I have never used wax on my trout rods or any rod where Im not casting for distance repeatedly as I have not had issues with ferrels coming loose.

 

[Guest1]

On two hand rods a very loud yes. Each and every time you use the rod. Failure to do it has a very high likelyhood of busting your rod. The top parts come loose and you try and cast it and BANG! Busted rod. It generally busts the female half, but I have seen one where it busted the end of the male end off. It's almost always the first ferrule up from the grip.

On single hand rods it's not as important. If you are casting really far all day you might want to. Graphite that is not new. New graphite you want to stay like new.

 

[fredaevans]

A friend put me on the stuff a few years ago. I was taking apart my spey rod and could not get the sections undone easily, and you could hear them squeak when I was trying to twist them. He jumped out of his truck and grabbed his wax and did my rod up right there in the parking lot. Worked very, very well. I bought some and now do all of my rods. I think well made rods fit very tightly, and it prevents possible damage when trying to get them apart.

The 'wax (or tape) or not to wax (or tape) is an ongoing 'argument' within the 2hander community. My personal take is spey rod connections come in two strips. Sanded or polished. With the sanded one's I don't bother. With the polished one's it's a pretty good idea to do one or the other (some do both).

Reason for that is a spey casts inherent action puts a lot of twist into a rod blanks connections and the polished ones will loosen up over the course of a day. Which is why you should check them (all) frequently. You can usually tell when a Ferrel connection has loosened up as your casts are going out nicely then they go 'flat' for a lack of a better term.. Only two things come to mind that cause same: you're just tired or you've got a loose Ferrel (or both).
fae

 

[nick k]

I have seen one where it busted the end of the male end off.

Couldn't help but laugh.

 

[silver creek]

I religiously use wax on the ferrules.

Ferrules can loosen and that is one reason for broken fly rods.

"5. UNSEATED FERRULES
Another easily avoided rod breaker is an unseated ferrule, which is like a time bomb, says Johnson: “It’s an almost surefire way to break a fly rod.”

“The ferrule sections loosen up during casting, and if a fisherman does not reseat those sections, they will eventually break,” warns Jim West. “It happens all the time.”

http://americanangler.com/technique/busted

There are three causes for the separation and loosening of the ferrules.

The main cause is the differential flex pattern of the female vs male parts of the ferrule joint. This mismatch of the flex pattern works the joint loose.

When the joint flexes, the female end tends to form an oval with the short axis of the oval in the direction of the flex and the long axis at 90 degrees to the flex. The male end has a circular plug in the end of the section. Therefore, the male end tends to stay more circular and is unable to match the oval pattern of the female side of the ferrule.

This causes separation of the long axis portion of female side (eg, it's diameter is now greater than the matching male). Simultaneously, the short axis of the female end now has a diameter that is less than the matching male and so the male section tends to get pushed out - like toothpaste from a tube. So you get a combination of separation of the joint at the long axis of the female and simultaneously the short axis pushes the male end out - ergo, you get a loose joint.

If you parrafin the joint, there is a layer of parrafin between the male and female ferrule sections. As the joint flexes, the parrafin as a semisolid gets squeezed from the short axis to fill in at the long axis - ergo, the parrafin serves as an internal modulator to keep the parts from separating.

The second cause is centrifugal force. As we cast we are moving the rod through an arc, and in effect, the casting motion is a throwing motion of the rod. This centrifugal force tend to pull the sections apart.

The third minor cause is line friction on the guides. As the line is shot through the guides, the friction on the guides actually is a slight pull on the distal rod sections away from the proximal rod sections.

So waxing your ferrules helps prevent ferrule loosening and also prevents ferrules from locking. I carry a birthday candle and if the ferrule does not rotate smoothly like it is waxed, I do so before fishing.

 

[trout trekker]

Here’s what some of the rod manufacturers have to say about the use of ferrule wax and other products. For context, go to their websites and read all of their comments concerning rod care.


Sage:

Equipment Care - About Sage | Sage Fly Fishing

“Periodically wax the ferrules (where the rod pieces separate) lightly with paraffin to ensure a firm fit and proper function.”

Redington:

Product Care - Customer Service | Redington Fly Fishing

“Maintain the life and proper fit of the ferrules by rubbing a bit of paraffin onto them. This makes for a firm, secure fit and also makes sections easier to separate. Remove dirt or grime on ferrules if needed. “

Echo:

Rajeff Sports - Airflo Flylines, Echo Rods, lots of fly-fishing advice

“Paraffin wax can also be used on the ferrules if needed to ensure a proper fit. Do not use tape on your ferrules. If you do we'll come steal all your bacon and PBR.”


St. Croix:

St. Croix Rods - Owner Manuals

“ Periodically apply a thin film of wax to the male ferrule section. This will allow the rod sections to seat securely, which prevents them from separating during use. A special ferrule wax is available from St. Croix. “


Hardy Cane:

Hardy & Greys Ltd - Cane Rod Care

“If your ferules are tight, lubricate them with plain dry soap, especially if the rod hasn't been used frequently.”


Hardy Carbon:

Hardy & Greys Ltd - Rod Care Advice

“Rub the spigots or joints regularly with candle wax (do not use Chemical based lubricants). This prevents premature wear of the carbon to carbon joints, provides a secure friction fit during fishing and ease of separation at the end of a day’s fishing.”

Grey’s:

Greys Fly Fishing - Rod Care

“Rub the spigots or joints regularly with candle wax (Do not use Chemical based lubricants). This prevents premature wear of the carbon to carbon joints, provides a secure friction fit during fishing and ease of separation at the end of a day's fishing.”


Winston:

R.L. Winston Rod Co. | The Finest Fly Fishing Rods in the World

Subheading: “ How do I care for my Winston rod?”

“ Don't try to force ferrules together; internal spigot ferrules are designed to have a gap that allows for future wear. A nice, snug fit is what you're looking for. With sleeve ferrules, rubbing a little paraffin wax on the male end can help. “


Orvis Bamboo:

Bamboo Fly Rod Care | Bamboo Fly Rod Information Center - Orvis


Orvis carbon, Temple Fork Outfitters & G. Loomis.

I couldn’t find a link to their recommendations.

Orvis ferrule wax product:
Ferrule Wax for Fly Rods / Orvis Ferrule Wax -- Orvis

If you come across any other links to rod manufacturers care & maintenance suggestions and can post them here, I’d appreciate it.



Thanks all, TT

 

[rusty 54]

I emailed a TFO tech guy a couple of years ago, he said NOT to wax their ferrules