When casting and when the line starts to straighten out as it nears the water - what is the reason that the front 6'-8' goes limp and doesn't straighten out (besides poor casting technique)? Is the rod overloaded or underloaded with that amount of line in the air? Thanks.
Dumb question
- Thread starter tpcollins
- Start date
glcaddis
Well-known member
Failure to come to a hard stop with the rod at the ten o'clock position. After the hard stop, you can let the rod drop slowly toward the water, but the leader won't straighten out without the stop at 10.
Gene
Gene
fredaevans
Well-known member
Re: Dumb question Not at all, a damned good question.
Give you another view of "Transfer of Energy" and that's all that's going on with the fly line, to the leader, to the tippet, to the fly.
My first guess is your leader config. is too heavy (butt section) for the fly line you are using. End of fly line must match up with the leader butt section in 'width/weight.' Or leader less.
Think of a couple of garden hoses; yes this sounds like a silly analogy, but this just simple Physics. Probably the wrong word?
You have a 3/4" hose to a yard spigget down to a 1/2." Water pressure in the first is 'x' being transferred to 'y.' In the smaller pipe water pressure will increase, 'That's just a fact jack' sort of thing. Transfer of energy, not volume.
Now you reverse same? And you get what?
Just the reverse.
Give you another view of "Transfer of Energy" and that's all that's going on with the fly line, to the leader, to the tippet, to the fly.
My first guess is your leader config. is too heavy (butt section) for the fly line you are using. End of fly line must match up with the leader butt section in 'width/weight.' Or leader less.
Think of a couple of garden hoses; yes this sounds like a silly analogy, but this just simple Physics. Probably the wrong word?
You have a 3/4" hose to a yard spigget down to a 1/2." Water pressure in the first is 'x' being transferred to 'y.' In the smaller pipe water pressure will increase, 'That's just a fact jack' sort of thing. Transfer of energy, not volume.
Now you reverse same? And you get what?
Just the reverse.
Another thing you can try is cast at a spot past where you want the fly to land. As the fly gets close, pull back on the rod, or feather the line with your hand. It will slow the line and lay out the leader. Since you aimed at a spot past your target, done right you can hit the right spot nice and straight.
Pocono
Moderator
Try casting to a point a few feet above the water. Casting to the water tends to give you a "hard" landing, which, in a lot of cases, will spook the fish that you're going after.
The hard stop on the forward cast is important; as is a hard stop on the backcast (for the same reason), but try for an imaginary target just above the water and let the fly float down onto the surface.
Also, if your front line/leader is pudding on you (not straightening out at the end of your cast), then have a look at your casting stroke. I think you're likely to find that it's very fast at the start and much slower at the finish. For most purposes, this is just the opposite of what you want. It's a little un-natural for some to start the cast slow and to accelerate it up to the point of the stop, but it works very well and it's one of the best ways to be able to feel the rod load with the line. Once you can feel that loading, your casting will, I think, be a lot better for you.
The quick start / slow finish cast is also one of the prime causes of people "horsing" a rod; putting so much power into the cast that it, more or less, negates the inherent effects of a loaded fly rod.
One final thing to consider. Sometimes, in an effort to get the fly to just where you want it; just a little further out than on the previous false cast (assuming that you're using one or more false casts), people make the final forward cast a little more energetically than the previous false casts. This generally translates into a faster start and a slower finish and often times doesn't give them the effect that they're looking for. Try to resist the urge to make that final forward cast just right and keep the same rhythm and speed that you used on your previous false cast(s); let the rod do the work. Of course, if you're picking up from the water and casting out again, you wouldn't encounter this point as much.
Good luck with it!
Pocono
The hard stop on the forward cast is important; as is a hard stop on the backcast (for the same reason), but try for an imaginary target just above the water and let the fly float down onto the surface.
Also, if your front line/leader is pudding on you (not straightening out at the end of your cast), then have a look at your casting stroke. I think you're likely to find that it's very fast at the start and much slower at the finish. For most purposes, this is just the opposite of what you want. It's a little un-natural for some to start the cast slow and to accelerate it up to the point of the stop, but it works very well and it's one of the best ways to be able to feel the rod load with the line. Once you can feel that loading, your casting will, I think, be a lot better for you.
The quick start / slow finish cast is also one of the prime causes of people "horsing" a rod; putting so much power into the cast that it, more or less, negates the inherent effects of a loaded fly rod.
One final thing to consider. Sometimes, in an effort to get the fly to just where you want it; just a little further out than on the previous false cast (assuming that you're using one or more false casts), people make the final forward cast a little more energetically than the previous false casts. This generally translates into a faster start and a slower finish and often times doesn't give them the effect that they're looking for. Try to resist the urge to make that final forward cast just right and keep the same rhythm and speed that you used on your previous false cast(s); let the rod do the work. Of course, if you're picking up from the water and casting out again, you wouldn't encounter this point as much.
Good luck with it!
Pocono
double dry
Well-known member
All the above are good explanations. I find when one is piling line that two common errors come into play. Provided line and rod are matched, fly line should behave if your casting arc and wrist positioning are correct.
Your flyrod tip should travel in a straight line at a slight downward angle, not in an arc. An arc will not allow proper fly rod loading (pile). Also, watch your rod wrist to ensure that you are providing the "path" for the rod tip.
I did a brief video on casting (roll casting) but it explains what I'm trying to say. Just search youtube, Duane Redford.
Your flyrod tip should travel in a straight line at a slight downward angle, not in an arc. An arc will not allow proper fly rod loading (pile). Also, watch your rod wrist to ensure that you are providing the "path" for the rod tip.
I did a brief video on casting (roll casting) but it explains what I'm trying to say. Just search youtube, Duane Redford.
silver creek
Well-known member
It is hard to say why the cast is not straightening without a video. We can guess but if you want to know what is going on and how to correct it, either see a casting instructor or post a video.
That's a new one to me - might be part of my problem. I should have indicated I'm trying to cast a new Sage Xi3 10wt I just built - I can cast my little GLoomis 3wt with ease. I would think there shouldn't be any difference between the two but somehow I must be trying to "help" the 10wt - sort of like my golf game . . .
Thanks Duane, I'll check your video.
Best advice yet.
silver creek
Well-known member
I think I understand the problem now.
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