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Thread: Loop connection

  1. #11

    Default Re: Loop connection

    Quote Originally Posted by silver creek View Post

    I have found a problem with this method and wonder if it has happened to you.

    I have found the mono stiffens the end of the fly line and you will eventually break down the fly line where the inserted mono ends. The stiff butt of the inserted mono causes hinging during the cast.
    No, i don't have issues with this variation of inserting the leader into the fly line. Whithlock's procedure pierces the fly line coating, creating a weak spot. The tearing will continue with casting. The hole created is big, since he pulls the leader with the needle, and probably this is the spot where the hinging is created.
    The method I posted doesn't pierce the fly line. The needle is pushed up through the center of the fly line, preferably through the braided core. The heat will stretch a bit the core and coating and after cooling it will retain the new shape (with a hole in the center) The hole is approximately 3/4 inch long. I do the sanding of the leader and than dry fit the but into the hole. When everything is ready, I put a drop of superglue on the portion of the leader that gets inserted and push the leader but in the fly line. Add a drop of superglue at the end of the fly line and hold so it will flow in the connection.
    Have towel ready to wipe off exes glue, and use latex gloves.
    Check for soundness of connection (after the glue is cured); if it holds, you're good to go, if it comes loose, repeat procedure.
    I especially like the fact that you almost don't feel anything when the joint goes through your guides.

    NOTE: The leader but has to be thinner than the fly line end. pick a leader that has the smallest but diameter and works for your purpose(has the casting characteristics you want).

    Tight lines,
    Alex

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Default Re: Loop connection

    Quote Originally Posted by axle27 View Post
    Are you talking about from the end of your fly line to the leader butt?

    If so, I nail knot a piece of Amnesia (or you could you Mono, if you like) to the end of the flyline. I put a perfection loop on the other end. I usually make it about 2-3" long.

    I don't use tapered leaders. The furled leaders already have loops on the end, so it's an easy connection.
    Same for this fly angler. Works great!

    Kelly.
    I fish, therefore I am - but I gotta go to work first..."piscari ergo sum"

  3. #13

    Default Re: Loop connection

    I like loop to loop connections.

    I use those Braided loop connectors from Orvis and Cortland (or make my own with Cortland #20/#50 braided line) on all my fly lines from 3- 8wts and have never lost one through slippage...Yet?
    I don't use superglue on the end/heat shrink, because it tends to make the braid a bit to brittle for me. I use Pliobond. Just before it hardens, but is still tacky, I roll it and form it into an long oval shape so it will travel through the guides easier. I probably don't need to use the heat shrink but I used both anyway.

    I follow this with my furled leaders with a tippet ring, followed by the appropriate tippet.

    Larry

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Pennsylvania by God
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    145

    Default Re: Loop connection

    They are a great idea for light wt. rods, but for serious fishing make a loop and three nail knots,glue them and you won't loose fish because of the factory loop or these being pulled off. In 2011 I lost a probable record IGFA Bull Shark because loop connectors pull off .
    There is nothing like Wild Trout ,Timber Rattlers and Cowboy coffee.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Default Re: Loop connection

    I had been using the amnesia method, which if necessary will do on 6wt and larger. I don't like it on 4wt and under for some reason, don't ask why because I don't know exactly. I think it might have to do with my perfection loop knot being to bulky.

    For a 3wt the other day I cut off the amnesia and took and old 6X tapered leader that had a factory loop on it. Cut it down to about 12", nail knotted it to my floating line so that I have about 3" of mono and a loop.A little Loon UV knot sense to seal it up and viola. The factory loops on mono/floro leaders are slimmer than any knot I can tie. I've never had a fish bust my leader up t the loop so it seems as strong as Amnesia with a thinner profile for going through the eyes of the rod.

    Sometimes the obvious answer evades me. why I didn't do this 3years ago I will never know.
    "The fish you're gonna find up here, you're gonna find; Rainbow,Cuttbow,CuttBrowns,Brownbows,RainBrowns,
    CuttyRainbrowns, Pike ,Perch"

    "Snap it" Hank Patterson

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    south florida
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    2,152

    Default Re: Loop connection

    Properly made hollow, blind spliced loops will neither pull off nor come apart and can be made with any hollow line that the fly line will fit into - including 400 lb test hollow spectra. They are ideal for large fish. IMO there are no properly made after-market loops on the market that I know of.

    For most freshwater species I'd just nail knot the leader butt. You could always add another nail knot of 8 lb. test below the leader butt nail knot for salmon if you've never caught one before and don't trust a single nail knot
    http://www.miterclamp.com/Images/N_Amer_FF.jpg Cheers, Jim

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