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  1. #1

    Default Welded loop - lurker

    I want to be set free from my chains!

    I'm terribly green, which is why I don't post and mostly just read... I bought a new flyline and it has a welded loop. What is the best way to attach my tapered leader to the welded loop?



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Pinedale, WY
    Blog Entries

    Default Re: Welded loop - lurker

    Brain: Great to see you posting! Most tapered leaders nowdays come with a loop on the end, so the idea is to use a loop to loop connection to the end of the fly line. Assuming your leader has a loop, just slide the leader loop over the end of the fly line, then take the far end of the leader and feed it through the loop on the fly line and slowly snug the two loops up. In the past before fly lines had a welded loop, the standard method of connecting a leader was to use a nail knot. You can google "fly line knots" there are several sites that show animated knots to make it easier to learn.


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  4. #3

    Default Re: Welded loop - lurker


    That's what I did. It sure seems that if I ever need to change the leader that it will have cut into the welded loop. Is this the case, or is flyline quite tough that way? The previous flyline was cheap and did not have a loop. I used a nail knot, which I enjoyed learning how to tie.


  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Wasilla / Skwentna, Alaska
    Blog Entries

    Default Re: Welded loop - lurker

    Hi Brian,

    If you want to negate the risk of the mono loop on your leader cutting through the welded loop you may want to try this;

    I use these on my lines because I use large flies and many of the fish are heavy. I suspect they would work fine for light tackle use also.

    Welcome to posting on the forum,


    Anywhere can be the land of great expectations, broken dreams, or paradise found, it's all up to you.

    Life On The Line - Alaska Fishing with Ard
    Ard's Forum blog, Alaska Outdoors

  6. #5

    Default Re: Welded loop - lurker

    I have not had any trouble with changing a loop to loop connection. Just push the leader against the fly line loop and reverse the the process

  7. #6

    Default Re: Welded loop - lurker

    Good to know. For now its just bluegills in small lakes. With my terrible casting, I think I'd drive myself nuts on a trout, or steelhead river LOL! I doubt the loops will pull very tight for now.


  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    S. E. Taxachusetts
    Blog Entries

    Default Re: Welded loop - lurker


    Here's a link with some info on various line to leader connections:
    Line to Leader Connections

    Personally, I am a big fan of the leader links. Have been using them most of my life and never had one fail on me. When tying the overhand knot on the leader side, remeber to pass the tag threw twice to beef up the knot a little.

    What I like about the leaderlinks:
    1) no hinge issues.
    2) simple to install.
    3) fairly easy to change leaders if you are using standard tapered leaders. (It's different it you are using hand tied leaders, but still not time consuming, fussy nor difficult.)
    4) No loops for my sloppy or under powered casts to hang up on if I throw a tailing loop.
    5) They pass throw the guides easily. This was/is important to me because I did/do use some very long and fine, hand tied leaders on a 7'6" 3-weight for tiny streams. [There may have been other solutions to the situation I was facing, but I was building my own leaders then, so is kind of fun figuring out a 16' leader.]
    I'm currently out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message, and if you would like to reach me by phone, please hang up now.

  9. Default Re: Welded loop - lurker

    Use the loop-to-loop method mentioned above, as it's probably the easiest. If I ever have a line that doesn't have a loop, I will tie a loop into it with a nail knot and a piece of mono. If you just tie the leader straight to the fly line via nail knot or what have you, and just clip it whenever you need a new leader, you eventually end up cutting off the shooting head/taper, at least w/ a WF line, and are just left to cast with running line.

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