Going Ice Breaking In The Morning;

Ard

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You guys will have to keep things going through the night and tomorrow, I've gotta hit the hay and go break some ice. The weather is changing way faster than I had thought and the rivers up north will soon get slushy. September and early October were balmy and rainy which lulled me into thinking I had the rest of this month to fish whenever I chose to............. not quite that way now. I've spent the past two days stacking wood, and have some to split yet before weeks end, it's getting cold here fellas :eek:

I'll carry a camera and if anything notable is caught will get a snapshot or two ;)

Here's one from Sunday;



The run that bulldog looking fish came from has a real bruiser in there somewhere. I had it hooked a little last Thursday but it never really had the hook point and came undone :eek: It was heavy enough to double that 13'6" One right over and I was pretty surprised to have it come lose.
 

Ard

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Thanks fellas,

Up since 5:30 leaving at 7:30, it will not be light enough to drive the boat until at least 8:30. It's about 18 degrees where I'm headed according to the internet weather with a high of 33 predicted so................. The coffee is on for the thermos and I'm even taking a lunch, this may be the last day fishing up north, it's going to be colder tonight and things change fast once we get close to zero.

I'll take pictures :)
 

Ard

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It's been a couple days now and I'm OK to talk about it................

I guess that first you have to understand what the goal was when I had called a fellow to see if he wanted to join me for what I figured would be the last trip of the season. There's a river 80 miles north of me that, like many here is a glacier fed flow. From early June through September the main channels are carrying a heavy silt load and at a glance the river looks nasty and muddy. During June, July and August the main channels are the highway for returning salmon. The salmon travel up and peal off at each and every clear water tributary where they spawn. Some fish spawn right in the main channels but knowing how many do so is difficult due to the inability to see them unless they are in one foot of water.

With September comes cold nights which significantly slow down the melt rate of the huge ice masses that are behind the silt which is actually pulverized rock and some ancient soils / organic matter. Once that flow is slowed the rivers magically clear up, some in just a few days and they look like any other freestone river, clear and beautiful. Gone is the nasty muddy look and present before you is the Alaskan river of your dreams. The other big change is that suddenly they become a great place to fish. I'm quite sure that there are always trout and char in even the turbid flows especially near the mouths of each and every clear tributary but fishing the main river while the water is turbid is slow going. You have to get the fly directly in the face of a fish before it will be seen.

Once the river clears there's another happening, the tributaries are getting lower and colder so the resident trout and other species begin to drop down until they reach the main river which is much deeper and will provide sufficient winter habitat for them. Some travel over 150 miles to the estuary at Cook Inlet, others winter in the Susitna River main stem in the deep pools. For the guy who can hit it right just before freeze up the fishing can be legendary. I've been fortunate to have been there when the entire river was 'a good spot' seemingly filled with hungry fish but this trip we missed the window by one day.

Yes, one day and that's no joke. My friend at the boat launch had green lighted me the day before with a positive water report, no ice, plenty of fish............ Problem was the temperature up that river valley and surrounding mountains dropped to single digits overnight. We arrived just after sunrise and as expected no one was there, no boats launched, deserted. Perfect!

Well not quite;



The ice in the launch pool was already 1/4" thick and there was a whole lot of slush and small ice flows coming down the river.



Two things in the picture worth mentioning; the mountain top visible is that of Denali and the large circular ice flow had just drifted out of the launch pool. The fella in the picture, although excited with the prospect of good fishing was pretty concerned with the cold and the ice.

Ice like that won't damage my boat but it will clog up a jet motor intake. It can also present issues with the cooling system if the temp stays right at or below freezing all day long. The water will freeze in the cooling lines and the discharge hoses............ We left the boat in the pool and went to the nearest town for a cup of coffee and to wait to see if the amount of floating ice would subside. When we returned we found that there was no need for an anchor because the boat was neatly frozen in place right where we had left it. We decided that the better part of valor on this morning was to call it and pull the boat. If you go and you experience any sort of engine trouble there will not be any other boat coming your way until mid May so we pulled it out. I should have taken a picture of the boat while it was iced in place but neglected to do so.

The single thing that made me say, "I don't think we should" is that from this boat launch you must go down stream about 1/4 mile and then cross below a railroad bridge to reach the main channel. That's always a bad idea unless you are rafting (going downstream in iffy conditions) because if you have a problem like your control cables freezing up causing loss of throttle you can't just drift back to the launch............ I like upstream travel in power boats.

SO we began the 80 mile return checking each and every stream that we came to for ice conditions. It was dark when we had went north and we couldn't see the waters at each bridge but we could now. Every one was floating full of ice slabs. We stopped at the last stream, very little ice but also low water, we bout were armed with 13 and 13'6" Spey rods but gave the small water a go. We failed to see or hook a fish. Were they already dropped down through this area? Were they still up stream hanging with the last of the spawning silvers? That's something I'll never know.

One thing I do know is that I have to get the boat sheltered for winter because we are turning cold fast now. I rebuilt the control box yesterday and thoroughly drained the water from all ports, purged the marine grease in the impeller bearings and pulled the battery, it's over. There will be no more river rides with not another living soul around until next fall. The Mokai still stands ready for a few days steelhead fishing but those days promise to be very cold ones I'm sure. That river is fed by lake outflow so the ice is held up until around December there...........

Sorry I couldn't provide the glory shots fellas, it's just been one of those years, at least I got some much needed work done at the cabin......................
 

ejsell

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Wow, I think that hits the top 5 for depressing fishing reports on here. Top 2 go to hairwing for getting run over by a drift boat and later a logging truck.

That's a shame you guys were a day late, I was looking forward to the report and pics.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

mcnerney

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Ard
Enjoyed your report and photos, but sorry to hear the bad news with the ice coming on so fast. Here we have been very lucky to have enjoyed 60 degree highs all week. Tomorrow they are calling for a high of 40 so that will be a shock to the the system.
 

Ard

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I guess I was lulled into a false sense of security guys. All through September and even October while I was out at the cabin it was rainy and warm. Not much variation between night and day temp wise and hanging around the low to upper forties. The rivers and creeks have all been high so I was figuring that as they dropped I'd have a couple weeks to get at them. Then the rain and clouds moved out and the nights became clear and much cooler. Last night it went to 11 here at home and lower in the mountains I'm sure.

I wanted one more run on my home water to see if I could raise a certain trout that came loose almost ten days ago now but I didn't bother going down there today due to the overnight low. I could have taken more photos Wednesday but forgot about it once the reality set in. I'm over it, I've had a good run here for 13 out of 14 seasons so I can't complain.

I'm winterizing today and putting the boat away I think.................. I still have a week or more to go down south and see about some silvers and steelies so, "It ain't over till it's over" ;)
 

smp005

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Ard,

I am envious!! I lived in Northern Maine for seven years and visited Alaska many times. I could easily drop everything and move back to Maine or to Alaska in a heartbeat - and if for no other reason than the pure peace and quiet....

All the years I lived in Limestone, Maine once the the temps dropped and the snow came it seemed like life suddenly slowed down. Everyone still went to work and icefishing and snowmobiling but the evenings just seemed more peaceful.

You truly live in God's country!
 
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Ard

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Hi Kev,

I shouldda been down on the Peninsula today, it was 38 down there. I'd love to go tomorrow but it's such a long trip. The huge problem is that my wife is going away and Boss has to come with me. Taking him up the river in the Mokai is a non-starter. I hate leaving him in the truck but it'll come down to that if I'm going to go.................
 

Unknownflyman

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Things are wrapping up fast around here too, cold a foot of snow, I have friends up steelheading in chocolate high water. My season is done till the catch and release season for trout on the driftless spring creeks January 7th. I Got to get ready for hunting and winter, it’s here.

I will maybe make a winter steelhead trip to the Lake Michigan tribs like last year but it was so incredibly dangerous and cold. Dodging massive ice flows and almost being taken down by icebergs for fish I’m not going to keep anyway seems insane looking back to last year.
 

Ard

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Things are strange here, we're having a heat wave now. It's been in the 40's for three days and promises to stay this way for another 7 days at least. I've already winterized the boat but am taking a ride to the launch this afternoon to see what shape the water is close to home. If there are no ice flows I'll put the battery back in and take the tarps off. I thought it was over but perhaps not.

Ice flows are dangerous for sure, I've been struck by them although it's been years since one got me. It didn't knock me down but came close. After that I learned to keep a constant vigil upstream watching for them. When you combine high water with new shelf ice that is breaking away and going afloat one would think it couldn't get worse. It can, you throw some substantial sized logs from down spruce - birch or cottenwood into the mix and it's like fishing on private property, you can't relax at all due to too many hazards floating toward you all the time.

A fellow called me yesterday while I was out buying a steel door for the shop building, he was inviting me to go fishing yesterday afternoon. He said the report from boat launches up the valley were all saying no ice on the water. I was committed to the door install so I passed. I think he was headed out again today and he promised to call me with a report from the river where we were froze out.

I'm good to go either way, there's a Mokai on a trailer in the driveway in case I decide to go south, my boat is not allowed down there due to the engine horsepower rating rules. The Mokai is slower but quite legal. If the waters are clear here I'll take the big boat and fish close to home for one day and then go south. We've had only a dusting of snow but that was enough to get me stacking wood and splitting up the March pile. Stuff split and stacked now will be ready by March when the already seasoned stocks are depleted. Winter in AK. always means work of some sort.
 
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