Use 2 tungsten jig flies for euro nymphing or just 1?
- Thread starter jayw2942
- Start date
Totally condition specific- Deep and fast, without expectation of a hatch- double down. Expecting an emergence- put something soft hackle-ish, or with a bright bead and CDC collar on the dropper- heavy fly on point.
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falcon53
Well-known member
I would use a unweighted fly above the bottom tungsten fly.
dillon
Well-known member
Anybody use three flies?
moucheur2003
Well-known member
The more flies, the more tangles. Some people also think a weighted fly on a dropper above the point fly makes it harder to detect strikes on the point fly. When I fish a dropper I usually use a weighted fly on the point and a dropper above with a short tag and a smaller, unweighted fly. But if you are able cast more than one weighted fly without spending more time untangling bird's nests than fishing, kudos to you!
pleasantvalley
Well-known member
If I need to get deep quick, or the current is fairly swift I use 2 weighted flies. If it’s slower water or I have a longer drift, or I’m drifting from a shallow in to a pool, I’ll use 1.
Lately I’ve been fishing a small slowish stream close to home. My go to has been weight on the anchor fly, unweighted on point. Though I do sometimes like to reverse that to ride top and bottom of the same seam in the column. Use the weight to drop the rig from the point, then let the unweighted anchor trail behind.
Lately I’ve been fishing a small slowish stream close to home. My go to has been weight on the anchor fly, unweighted on point. Though I do sometimes like to reverse that to ride top and bottom of the same seam in the column. Use the weight to drop the rig from the point, then let the unweighted anchor trail behind.
Weighted nymph on the bottom and emerger above it .
For most of my pressured local waters, non-bead heads (or unweighted heads) are the most productive offerings for me.
Not to mention I often fish sizes 20 - 30, which, even with a tungsten head doesn't sink very fast.
I just use split shot sinker(s) as needed to get my offerings to the target depth.
Weighted (jig and non-jig) heads are great if you find them productive; if not, just use some shot.
More details on the topic here
Euro Nymphing; not just for bead head nymphs | br fly fishing
For river fishing I usually use 2 offerings. Our regs allow 3, but I find too many foul hook-ups with 3.
If I'm fishing Stillwater I may use 3 as I find not many foul hook-ups without the current.
Not to mention I often fish sizes 20 - 30, which, even with a tungsten head doesn't sink very fast.
I just use split shot sinker(s) as needed to get my offerings to the target depth.
Weighted (jig and non-jig) heads are great if you find them productive; if not, just use some shot.
More details on the topic here
Euro Nymphing; not just for bead head nymphs | br fly fishing
For river fishing I usually use 2 offerings. Our regs allow 3, but I find too many foul hook-ups with 3.
If I'm fishing Stillwater I may use 3 as I find not many foul hook-ups without the current.
losthwy
Montrose, Co.
Interesting link provided by "reels".
I may have to rethink using tungsten weighted flies. And instead if tying specialized weighted beadheads tie unweighted. I guessing using weighted flies recommended by proponents of euro Polish/Czech, such as Steve Parrot, stems from competition rules. Dunno for sure but that could be the case. At the very least warrants further thought.
While I don't competition fish, I haven't seen any comp rules that allow sinkers; so those guys are kinda 'forced' into using weighted flies.
That said, I think there are benefits to using weighted flies; namely that they have a faster sink rate and will get to your target depth quicker resulting in longer drifts (and jig style ride hook point up which has benefits too).
I think that's why peridon style patterns are popular with tight-line techniques; because they don't have legs/wings and only a few fibers for the tail there's very little water friction and they sink super fast to the target depth.
Using sinkers with unweighted (or light weighted) flies will slow the sink rate slightly, but in practice I haven't found it to be a problem. You can always "tuck/stop" the cast for a high velocity vertical entry into the water which will increase the sink rate dramatically if needed.
If weighted flies work for ya and you have them; use em. If not, no need to think you need a bunch of new special flies just to euro nymph.
Just my $0.02.
That said, I think there are benefits to using weighted flies; namely that they have a faster sink rate and will get to your target depth quicker resulting in longer drifts (and jig style ride hook point up which has benefits too).
I think that's why peridon style patterns are popular with tight-line techniques; because they don't have legs/wings and only a few fibers for the tail there's very little water friction and they sink super fast to the target depth.
Using sinkers with unweighted (or light weighted) flies will slow the sink rate slightly, but in practice I haven't found it to be a problem. You can always "tuck/stop" the cast for a high velocity vertical entry into the water which will increase the sink rate dramatically if needed.
If weighted flies work for ya and you have them; use em. If not, no need to think you need a bunch of new special flies just to euro nymph.
Just my $0.02.
not with today's tippet ring prices!
i never go lighter than a 3.8mm tungsten bead on the anchor, and always go 1-2 weights lighter on the tag. i hate using split shot, and would rather throw three beads on a #4 stonefly and use that to get my rig to the bottom.
if use #5 flouro from your sighter to your first tippet ring, it won't turn over as well with heaby flies, but it will get your flies to the bottom faster.