How important is the price of the rod?

[dickensheets]

Ok I'm a descent fishman. I do trout, bass and carp where I live. I fantasize about the salt but I live in Colorado. I'm an arline pilot so cheap travel means I can someday explore my fantasy.

Question: Will a $400 rod catch more fish than the $90 rods I currently employ. My common sense says no. But with all the advertising hype I feel a little inadequate. I show up to the stream with my blue jeans and Harley hat and catch fish but I'm a little embarrassed by my equip sometimes. I mean I've seen the "Orvis Model" look alike guy catch a tree trout on his first cast, but I do that too on occasion.

I want to wrap my own Scott blank but I have other expesive hobbies (wife, kids, welding) so money is an issue. Should I just go on with my disposable quiver or upgrade and get matching waders and vest.

Ryan

 

[Shane Stroud]

I'll drop my two cents worth. I think the number of fish a person catches, particularly when fly fishing, is heavily based upon technique, experience, knowledge, and such. The right flies at the right time, at the right place, with the right presentation usually wins out.

Knowing the hatches, knowing the streams, and knowing the fish will get you more fish than a fancy rod. I've seen people with probably $2000 in equipment waste an entire day at the river catching nothing but trees while a twelve year old kid pulled them in on almost every cast.

I spend most of my time fishing with a cheap telescopic rod, mainly because that's what I am accustomed to using. I like the way it feels in my hand, the way it throws nice, tight loops over good distance, and weighs considerably less than my old "beginner's" rod. Sure, I've seen people laugh when I pulled out that rod, but they usually stop laughing the first time I set the hook.

If you're catching fish now, the only reason I know to change rods is if you think yours is too heavy for all day fishing, too worn out, or the wrong rod for the species you are after or the location you're fishing.

 

[troutdoorsman]

To me a good quality rod means a better, smoother and farther cast. A good cast can get you into a tight spot that not a lot of other people can cast into because thier rod doesn't perform as nicely. There are always exceptions to the rule, not every expensive rod will perform good. Knowing how to catch the fish like described in the first post will get you into more fish than a rod though.

 

[pc40chas]

buy what you can afford. dont forget to add in the warranties there 25 years and up on some of these new rods. plus there a dream to fish with. if your gonna drop that kind of money, make sure you know the action you like and not what these companies are pushing. all of these new rods are getting stiffer and faster, and i personaly like just a little more of a traditional rod. to each his own. good luck

 

[Fishstick]

Buy what feels right. I've slung line on some high end rods that felt like telephone poles and some entry level rods that just had the magic. One of the advantages of a local fly shop is that you can try before you buy. What works for me, may not work for you. The rod should compliment your particular style and become an extension of your arm.

 

[rustydeej]

I'm sure you would look nice in matching waders and vest but if that pole is working stick with it. I agree with packfan that a high end rod might allow you to get into a tight spot or leave your arm less tired at the of the day.

Rusty

 

[dickensheets]

Thanks for the replies gents.

 

[Joni]

I think LINE is more important than the rod. And of course fly and presentation is the key.

CONFIDENCE is the most important. If you have that, you can make anything work.
The more expensive rods do make a difference though. Not saying you will catch more fish, but like already said, it will be less of a struggle and much more enjoyable.

 

[GRN]

I think LINE is more important than the rod. And of course fly and presentation is the key.

CONFIDENCE is the most important. If you have that, you can make anything work.
The more expensive rods do make a difference though. Not saying you will catch more fish, but like already said, it will be less of a struggle and much more enjoyable.

Agreed - line is THE big one, will make or break your potential with any rod of any cost or flavor.

I do appreciate the differences offered by premium rods. Do I catch more fish because I have a pile of expensive rods? Maybe, but not many if so... I have a few rods that seem to completely integrate with my body and vision, and allow me to pull off some pretty funky presentations to real tricky holds... there are usually more relaxed fish holding there because they are spots most folks won't even see in their scope of what's possible when they step into that stretch of water. Is it just familiarity with the rod? Maybe, but I don't think that's all of the picture... if I hadn't made a significant connection with them to begin with, I would have never gotten that familiar, right? Yes, I do cast all kinds of rods of all weights, lengths, actions and cost, and the few that have really inspired me have lately all been more expensive rods. Trust me, I would prefer they weren't, even at pro pricing it's a retarded amount of $ to spend on a 'fishing pole'.

Others might pick up my 4 core go to rod/line combos I find they don't suit them well at all... it's very subjective. Cast as many rods as you can, and when you find a few you like try them again with different lines and see what happens. My personal experience has been that some rods have one line match that brings out the best of that rod for how they use it. Some rods shine with different lines, taking on different personalities and rising specifically well to different tasks. Most of the rods I own are the later because that's what does it for me, nothing measurable or objective about it.

I fish mostly 2 SLT's, a Z-Axis, a ZXL, a BIIx, a LT3 variant (Delaware Special), an SP and a TRC (hoping to ad a G2 to this list this year). On those, the most fished lines are TT, SA & Rio DT, Windcutter, Tactical Ridge, and Lake type VII. Wide range of rods, wide range of lines.

What you wear and carry to the river has little to do with the heart of the experience. When you're on the water, ALL of your attention should be on the water. This will solve you're concerns for what others think (who?) and make you a better fisherman too...

TL's~

 

[Joni]

Welcome back GRN. Missed YOU! And NO you can't have your rod back! LOL

 

[GRN]

Welcome back GRN. Missed YOU! And NO you can't have your rod back! LOL

Well... I guess it's a good thing it's not attached! :icon_eek:

 

[Guest1]

In getting a fish to hit, the most important thing is the fly followed by presentation, then the line, then the rod. Landing it is a whole other story. However, I have owned one cheap rod that convinced me I suck at casting for distance. I bought a good rod and discovered it wasn't all me, in one cast. I never used it again and eventually gave it away. I will never use a cheap rod again. I regret ever having used it as I think it may have harmed my casting habits, taking a while to correct.

 

[Jackster]

When the rod is forgotten while fishing and is just an extension of your arm you've found the right tool, grasshopper! :icon_wink

 

[nearnuff]

I am interested in Joni and GRN's comment that line is more important than the rod. Is this a brand of line or a wt of line. I never considered that some would observe the line was more important than the rod. I over line some rods and undersome and some are right on, is this what you are saying? Just wondering.

 

[Joni]

I am interested in Joni and GRN's comment that line is more important than the rod. Is this a brand of line or a wt of line. I never considered that some would observe the line was more important than the rod. I over line some rods and undersome and some are right on, is this what you are saying? Just wondering.

For ME.....There are some good lines out there that do so much more. They stay soft in the cold, little line memory. Also lines for different species as well as the person using them.
Like several if not the majority here prefer DT. I prefer WF, although I have tried them all. This is what works for me. I also Have a TT. For the longest time I expected so much out of this line but it wasn't delivering. Finally I bout ONE rod and it became one with the TT.
Recently I bit the bullet and bought Sharkskin GPX. WORTH EVERY PENNY. It flies out of the rod by it's self LOL.
I am not saying you have to buy the $100 line, but it is worth it. I have never tried PEACH but there are THOUSANDS that swear by it and it is a less expensive line.
I have also bought the cheap close out line at Walmart...well lets just say, it makes interesting flies LOL but it sucked as far as line.

 

[Rip Tide]

I have quite a few of the $10 factory second lines and recommend them to people all the time

However, I hand tie all my own leaders to my own formulas...:wink:

That's why there's chocolate and vanilla

 

[GRN]

I am interested in Joni and GRN's comment that line is more important than the rod. Is this a brand of line or a wt of line. I never considered that some would observe the line was more important than the rod. I over line some rods and undersome and some are right on, is this what you are saying? Just wondering.

The only rods I have ever owned that genuinely benefited from over lining were Sage RPL+'s... that taper has a bulletproof butt section that extends way into the middle of the rod... stronger than today's Xi2 IMO. It's more about taper and coating characteristics - which is where I believe Joni and I will agree 100% (I know we have different preference's in what we fish).

The three primary categories as I score it are Double Taper (DT), Weight Forward (WF) and Wulff Triangle Taper (TT) which is kinda somewhere in between.

There are some variations on DT, primarily in the length/distribution of the front taper. DT lines are stronger roll casting tapers than WF's. DT lines also generally have symetrical tapers front and rear so when one end starts to get a bit worn you can reverse it and essentially double your miles.

WF lines come in more variations than Baskin Robbins ice cream, with variations to all of the taper dynamics, which can make them very superior for very specific fishing conditions especially driven by the flies used, and the wind.

Wulff TT is more or less a WF with a very long DT like front taper.

I fish TT more than any other line. Nothing beats it for roll casting or executing one handed spey forms. It's also very proficient with quiet presentations on still water at med to long distances. I find it's a great all-arounder, with it's only significant weakness being wind, the light tip can't carry enough energy and stalls. Folks in the west tend to tackle more wind, more often, hence it's not as popular as it is in New England. The vast majority of of stream/river fishing I do is with TT or DT. On still water I primarily fish TT and WF's. This is the half of your question that Joni will have a different perspective on... she's out west and loves her WF's!

TL's~

 

[peregrines]

Question: Will a $400 rod catch more fish than the $90 rods I currently employ?

Yes, but only if you pay retail. If you buy it wholesale you'll only catch twice as many.

[/QUOTE] I want to wrap my own Scott blank but I have other expesive hobbies (wife, kids, welding) so money is an issue. Should I just go on with my disposable quiver or upgrade and get matching waders and vest.

Ryan[/QUOTE]

Just curious, what is it about a Scott blank that you like, and what advantage does it offer over your present rod? You may find, if you're thinking of rolling your own that there are blanks- Rainshadow etc- that have a similar action and are much less expensive.

I think you should focus on what you'll need in terms of the performance of the rod and decide what you need, and test cast a bunch of different ones to see if one starts whispering in your ear. Don't know if you're anywhere near some of the fly fishing shows that are making their way around the country, but it's always funny to watch people at the casting pool. One guy will struggle to get casts out to forty feet, and say "this rod sucks" and then pass it off to the next guy in line that throws everything the length of the pool and over the backstop with the same rod and line.

Let's face it, there are very few people on the planet that are capable of pushing fly rods to their physical limit. The average guy, me included, would probably get more benefit from lessons than in relying on the latest and greatest "new and improved now with 20% more modulussessesses" whiz bang rod. At some point you start paying more and more for less and less improvement in performance. Sure, there are some sweet spots between cost and performance in general and some specific rods and line combinations at virtually every price point that are going to be clear standouts for your casting stroke and jump out at you if you get the chance to try them out.

And as Joni and GRN pointed out the right line can make a HUGE difference in any rod.

If you're thinking of a SW rod, many people prefer a fast action rod with some guts matched to a line that can comfortably cast 90 feet out back behind the shop without too much effort. Not that you typically have to throw that far to catch, but you may need to throw 60 in wind, or 20 into a teeth of a gale. In that respect there is more of an emphasis on the ability to hit distance than typical FW fishing situations on small streams. You'd also want one with SW proof components, solid dual locking reel seat, something with a stiff butt to turn or lift fish from deep water and a fighting butt. Slightly oversized guides to pass knots easily (fly line to leader and fly line to backing) would be nice.

peregrines

 

[dickensheets]

Yes, but only if you pay retail. If you buy it wholesale you'll only catch twice as many.

I want to wrap my own Scott blank but I have other expesive hobbies (wife, kids, welding) so money is an issue. Should I just go on with my disposable quiver or upgrade and get matching waders and vest.

Ryan[/QUOTE]

Just curious, what is it about a Scott blank that you like, and what advantage does it offer over your present rod? You may find, if you're thinking of rolling your own that there are blanks- Rainshadow etc- that have a similar action and are much less expensive.

I think you should focus on what you'll need in terms of the performance of the rod and decide what you need, and test cast a bunch of different ones to see if one starts whispering in your ear. Don't know if you're anywhere near some of the fly fishing shows that are making their way around the country, but it's always funny to watch people at the casting pool. One guy will struggle to get casts out to forty feet, and say "this rod sucks" and then pass it off to the next guy in line that throws everything the length of the pool and over the backstop with the same rod and line.

Let's face it, there are very few people on the planet that are capable of pushing fly rods to their physical limit. The average guy, me included, would probably get more benefit from lessons than in relying on the latest and greatest "new and improved now with 20% more modulussessesses" whiz bang rod. At some point you start paying more and more for less and less improvement in performance. Sure, there are some sweet spots between cost and performance in general and some specific rods and line combinations at virtually every price point that are going to be clear standouts for your casting stroke and jump out at you if you get the chance to try them out.

And as Joni and GRN pointed out the right line can make a HUGE difference in any rod.

If you're thinking of a SW rod, many people prefer a fast action rod with some guts matched to a line that can comfortably cast 90 feet out back behind the shop without too much effort. Not that you typically have to throw that far to catch, but you may need to throw 60 in wind, or 20 into a teeth of a gale. In that respect there is more of an emphasis on the ability to hit distance than typical FW fishing situations on small streams. You'd also want one with SW proof components, solid dual locking reel seat, something with a stiff butt to turn or lift fish from deep water and a fighting butt. Slightly oversized guides to pass knots easily (fly line to leader and fly line to backing) would be nice.

peregrines[/QUOTE]

Good points. Thanks.

 

[nearnuff]

Thanks for the reply and the answer Joni and GRN. I use Cortland and the peach is my go to line. I never over-lined a rod until Rip -Tide said he always goes a line up in saltwater fishing. I have a Cross-Current 9 for an 8 and I tried it with a 9 it was a bit better but it was snow casting and I will wait for spring to get a better feel for it.