How do you keep tin split shot from coming off?

[randyflycaster]

I can't seem to keep my split shots from coming off. I put them on flush against a leader knot, so they aren't sliding, just coming off.

I can put a loose overhand knot in the leader, then tighten the knot around the shot, but I find that if I take the shot off I have a knot in the leader.

Thanks,

Randy

 

[ontheflymn]

As an avid Dinsmore tin shot user, I use my teeth - the canine teeth work great for this.

No joke.

-Dave

 

[silver creek]

I can't seem to keep my split shots from coming off. I put them on flush against a leader knot, so they aren't sliding, just coming off.

I can put a loose overhand knot in the leader, then tighten the knot around the shot, but I find that if I take the shot off I have a knot in the leader.

Thanks,

Randy

Loop the leader around the shot WITHOUT tying a knot, then clamp the shot.

 

[flytie09]

Use lead......

On a serious note....use a pair of pliers and crimp down on them tight...aside from that, biting them like a hyena is the only other trick I know. Sorry.

 

[kevind62]

Not to push a certain brand but I agree with ontheflymn. Except I use my hemo's to crimp them. Make sure the split is facing the jaws. This crimps the split side more than the inside. Keeps from cutting your line when crimping the tin. It's a matter of getting "the feel" of how hard you need to crimp. You're gonna have slide on some and cut your line at other times until you get it.

 

[corn fed fins]

Silver's suggestion works great. However, with that rigging, if that weight is getting into the rocks the line around the weight can get worn so check it frequently or risk failure on a trophy fish. I also think crimping down to hard could also damage the line. I'm not familiar with tin as it just doesn't have high enough specific gravity for the waters I fish but my assumption is that it's placement on the line comes with the same problems as all other weight.

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[ejsell]

As mentioned a few times above crimp with the strongest part of your hemo's, the part closets to the hinge. And expect to loose some. I have a harder time getting it on the line to begin with than keeping it on.

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[planettrout]

I started using Twistons about 45 years ago on the Roaring Fork and Frying Pan Rivers in CO. One can adjust the amount of weight by cutting the length of the lead strip. Also, they don't hang up like lead or tin shot. I use Tungsten putty where lead is a no-no, like the Firehole River or other waters in YNP...

PT/TB

 

[osseous]

I started this year with a different take on adding weight. I read an article by George Daniel that motivated me to get away from lead shot. I bought a container of medium sized Loon tin shot- and I add and remove tungsten putty over the top to control my depth. I keep a pinch of the putty on the outside of my chest pack- so depth control is much faster than adding or removing shot. The loon tin shot stay put just fine (placed above a knot) this way- and the putty makes everything smooth- so no hang-ups.

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[Bigfly]

I tie a blood knot 8"above my lead fly.
It's a shot stopper.
I've found if I crush my shot too hard, it will cause a cloudy spot in the leader and break.
With the knot, they will slide down and stop...
the anchor shot tend to break down the spine, Dunsmore seem to stay intact.
And, avoid overhand casting unless you have good loop control. I had a guy out the other day, we couldn't get a consistent drift, because he was blowing them off every cast.
He had only one cast............so he struggled. After he learned a roll cast the problem went away.
I only use Tungsten putty on my dropper, lighter tippet can be compromised easily crushing your split...

Jim

 

[Acheron]

As an avid Dinsmore tin shot user, I use my teeth - the canine teeth work great for this.

No joke.

-Dave

I broke a tooth, in the middle of the ocean, first day into a wilderness/ocean trip, by doing this. Granted it was lead split shot not tin, same intention Do NOT recommend.


I hate those tin or alternative to lead split shot. They either fall off or simply do not weigh enough. I've gone back to lead. Prefer the putty. Am very picky about the color and texture of the putty after trying several types. It's extremely hard to find good putty.

 

[sparsegraystubble]

I broke a tooth, in the middle of the ocean, first day into a wilderness/ocean trip, by doing this. Granted it was lead split shot not tin, same intention Do NOT recommend.


I hate those tin or alternative to lead split shot. They either fall off or simply do not weigh enough. I've gone back to lead. Prefer the putty. Am very picky about the color and texture of the putty after trying several types. It's extremely hard to find good putty.

Okay, so which brands do you prefer and why. You might save some of the rest of us some trial and error.

Thanks,

Don

 

[rustneversleeps]

Purists look down on it, but I love using the smallest micro swivels on my nymph rigs about 10-12 inches above my top fly. I put my split shot above that, so not worrying about them sliding down or the rig getting messed up. Just my $0.02

edit - didn't read closely enough and saw that you aren't having issues sliding. I like using the more expensive lead that's marketed towards fly fishing without the "reusable" tabs. I feel like they tend to get snagged more. I have no problems with them sliding and can take them off with my fingernail.

 

[clsmith131]

I like the MFC removable tungsten split shot. I usually put them above a knot or a tippet ring. I use pliers. The tabs for removal are small, the material is indestructible, and more dense than lead so the you get less drag for the same amount of weight. Because the material is hard they are reusable. They are pricey though.
Montana Fly Company Tungsten Split Shot

 

[Acheron]

Okay, so which brands do you prefer and why. You might save some of the rest of us some trial and error.

Thanks,

Don

I will take a look when I get home to check on the brand. Problem is they've changed their formulas over the years. It's a matter of color and consistency and I normally check at new shops I'm visiting and buy it when I find it. The darker the better. Also if it feels like you need to scrape it out...that's the good stuff!

Why...
Color - preference, I doubt it makes a bit of difference. For me, when fishing high pressure water I'll take every opportunity to increase my confidence and darker split shot makes me feel more confident for whatever reason. Some years ago I noticed a significant weight to volume difference between the light versus darker while using them on the river. Maybe it was brands, maybe more filler in one than the other...I didn't investigate why but made the mental note and moved on.

Consistency - this is really what matters. The stuff that balls right up is garbage. Teh stuff that comes right out of the package with ease and doesn't stick to the packaging or itself is garbage. It will not stick to the line and ends up falling apart or off. Or it slides up and down the line between any knots you might have which eventually leads to it coming off.

You have to use your fingers to warm up the stuff I like unless it's a hot day. It's very dark and a small amount sinks like a rock. That's what I look for when buying putty.

 

[ontheflymn]

Dinsmore and only Disnmore. I'm not chewing on it, so cracking a tooth seems pretty extreme. You're clamping down hard enough to hold it in place. Nothing more.

The rest of the putty stuff is junk in my experience. Too soft, too hard, not sticky enough. Just not a fan.

My dentist is an avid fly angler, so while he doesn't recommend my methodology for putting on tin split shot, he understands .

 

[randyflycaster]

Thanks for all your help. I forgot to mention that I am spey casting with a very long rod. I think I am generating so much line speed that no split shot will stay on. I have an idea about using a tungsten bead as a split shot. I use a loop to loop connection with the leader and tippet. I will slid the bead on the top loop, then connect the loops. I will keep you posted.

Randy

 

[Bigfly]

Randy, I use a switch with shot all the time. Just use a snap-T, or roll cast, or waterload. No problem.
Everybody who casts overhand is asking for lost shot, lost flies and maybe a bruised rod.........
We start with 2 ABs here, and work up to 3-4 AAA shot for bigger water., so you can take this method to the bank.
I can overhand cast with shot but can control my loop so that I have smooth acceleration. But I don't, because other casts are better suited. Once I got away from that overhand cast I have discovered fishing is a beautiful thing. Really.....

Jim

 

[osseous]

Thanks for all your help. I forgot to mention that I am spey casting with a very long rod. I think I am generating so much line speed that no split shot will stay on. I have an idea about using a tungsten bead as a split shot. I use a loop to loop connection with the leader and tippet. I will slid the bead on the top loop, then connect the loops. I will keep you posted.

Randy

You can find tungsten shot now- and it is supposed to be re-usable. Just very expensive.

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[randyflycaster]

I am using a 15'6" trout spey rod so I am generating a lot more line speed than someone using a switch rod. I will see how my experiment with tungsten beads work; though I'm wondering if the tungsten split shots will stay one.

Randy