loop to loop connection

[bobbyc21fish]

I've known and heard of guys who swear by using a nail knot to connect the leader to fly line. My question is, does it really matter whether you use a nail knot or a loop to loop connection? I guess some guys think that the nail will be less noticable by the fish but I would like to hear some of your opinions and what works best for you.

Bobby

 

[wjc]

I never used anything but a nail knot for freshwater fish. Saltwater, for big fish, I use loop to loop as it is a stronger connection which does not need to be re-done very often.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[fishngolf16]

Loops are easier and they enable you to switch out leaders quickly. I change up leaders a lot during a day depending on situations and dry vs nymph fishing. I have never noticed much of a difference casting and I used to cut the loop off and tie on leaders but what I noticed the most was the lack of flotation after cutting the loop off.

A couple of years ago at the Denver Fly Fishing show I stopped at the RIO booth and asked the question about cutting off the loop and flotation of the line. I was told the cutting of the line will introduce more water into the line and flotation will be compromised. This is the only issue with the nail knot technique that I know of.

Coy

 

[Shane Stroud]

I have used nail knots, No Knot eyelets, Eagle Claw line to leader connectors, Cortland leader loops, and have bought some lines with loops already in them. With furled leaders, the only way to go is leader loops, at least as far as I can tell. Personally, I prefer the Cortland leader loops, as I started furling my own leaders and the combination works best for me.

Any method of connection has advantages and disadvantages. You just have to experiment and find the one that works best for you. It will all depend on the line type and weight, species you are targeting, leader type/material/size, and probably a half a dozen factors that I haven't even considered. But my money is still on Cortland leader loops.

 

[kglissmeyer1]

My new Orvis line came with a welded loop at the terminal end, so I attached my twisted leader with it's loop to the fly line loop. Neither married very well. In addition, the loop in the end of the fly line was quite large and I had trouble with the connection in my guides as it hung up constantly. Now I've noticed that the loop has cracked and now causes a hinged effect which impedes a good casting loop. I feel like I've given this my best effort and will now cut off the welded loop, attach an 18-inch piece of 20lb fluorescent mono via a Nail Knot to the fly line, with a Perfection Loop in the end to which I will affix my twisted leader for a loop-to-loop connection that I have used for years before trying the welded loop. Long answer to a seemingly simple question.

As far as using the mono nail-knotted to the fly line with a Perfection Loop in the end, this is a perfect system for changing leaders during the year, and, believe-it-or-not, the loop-to-loop does not seem to get as hung up in the guides as the fly line welded loop did.

Kelly.

 

[Jimmie]

At the start of last season I put the loops (Chinese finger puzzle types) on all of my fly lines. They make the last inch or so just stiff enough and the loop/loop knot just enough bigger that I was fighting the line going smoothly through the tip. I cut them all off and nail knotted leaders/fly line-double surgeon leader/tippet. Cut down hang ups at the tip eye (one of my tips was small anyway).

 

[ant]

After many different trial-and-errors, I started using the Cortland connectors, and they were pretty well. You just have to be very careful when heating the sleeve so you don't effect the fly line. A few quick passes through a flame usually does the trick.

Like a previous poster said, if you nail knot the leader to the line and then want to change leaders, you have to cut the line. If the line is a floating line you've pretty much killed it, as water will start to get into the core of the line and turn it into a sink tip line.

 

[db cooper]

My new Orvis line came with a welded loop at the terminal end, so I attached my twisted leader with it's loop to the fly line loop. Neither married very well. In addition, the loop in the end of the fly line was quite large and I had trouble with the connection in my guides as it hung up constantly. Now I've noticed that the loop has cracked and now causes a hinged effect which impedes a good casting loop. I feel like I've given this my best effort and will now cut off the welded loop, attach an 18-inch piece of 20lb fluorescent mono via a Nail Knot to the fly line, with a Perfection Loop in the end to which I will affix my twisted leader for a loop-to-loop connection that I have used for years before trying the welded loop. Long answer to a seemingly simple question.

As far as using the mono nail-knotted to the fly line with a Perfection Loop in the end, this is a perfect system for changing leaders during the year, and, believe-it-or-not, the loop-to-loop does not seem to get as hung up in the guides as the fly line welded loop did.

Kelly.

Right on brother

 

[Ard]

Like a previous poster said, if you nail knot the leader to the line and then want to change leaders, you have to cut the line. If the line is a floating line you've pretty much killed it, as water will start to get into the core of the line and turn it into a sink tip line.
__________________

Anthony,

Nail knot a piece of .21 leader material to the fly line and then place a Perfection loop in it. This is a permanent butt and you just loop the leaders in and out of it.

Ard

 

[ant]

Thanks Ard. I think I'll try that when I run out of those Cortlands. I think I still have a few lying around somewhere.

 

[Ard]

You're a night owl

 

[ant]

lol Not as much as I used to be. I usually turn in in about an hour or two. Just a few years ago that would be mid-afternoon.

 

[Ard]

There is no perfect solution to the connection when you get into big fish. I have had Cortland Braids ripped off by Great Lakes Kings, I have had nail knots peeled off my line and I've broken a welded loop on Kings too. You gotta go with whatever you are comfortable with.

 

[ant]

Nothings perfect. I have a few lines with the line looped over on the end and then bound with tying thread (I think Frank posted instructions of this a while back) that I had unravel while trying to get un-snagged. I blame myself for possibly not using enough glue on the end. I was still a bit steamed at that one as I lost fly, tippet and leader to the Lake.

 

[raindogt]

Caswell's knot to furled leader on all of my rigs. Never had one fail-- granted about the biggest fish I see are 5 Lbs. TOPS.... No (immediate) access to Kings and Steelheads here...

It is not the smallest knot in the world, but it is simple-- and it is by no means 'bulky'. I like that there is only one tag end and it can be 'directed' to a certain orientation.

 

[wjc]

Ard,

I have had Cortland Braids ripped off by Great Lakes Kings,

If you are talking about the braided mono loops that come two or three in a package, I would never use them. I had the first one I tried fall apart just from casting. After a buddy of mine showed me how to do them myself, I realized the cortland ones were not made properly.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[blackbear]

I run a nail knot on all of my trout lines. Steelhead get a braided loop with an "albright" knot using a strand of thin backing...tying it in 2 spots along its length onto the fly line. I also dab each knot with super glue....pretty much full proof and slips through guides easy.

 

[Fly2Fish]

. . . I used to cut the loop off and tie on leaders but what I noticed the most was the lack of flotation after cutting the loop off.

A couple of years ago at the Denver Fly Fishing show I stopped at the RIO booth and asked the question about cutting off the loop and flotation of the line. I was told the cutting of the line will introduce more water into the line and flotation will be compromised. This is the only issue with the nail knot technique that I know of. Coy

You can resolve this problem by coating the cut fly line end with Pliobond (or another flexible glue) to keep water from seeping into the fly line core.

 

[cpowell]

Now for something completely different.

I use a nail knot to secure my butt to the fly line...I like that knot the very best...small profile, strong.

I then tie a very small loop in the tag end of my butt. I then tie my leader/tippet directly to that loop as though it was the eye of a fly..I use the standard clinch...but I do take the leader around the loop twice...to give another strand for strength. It's easy, its fast..it has less drag and is only a method to use if you are NOT using tapered's. I do not use tapered leaders very often at all unless fine dries are the norm for my adventure.

This technique is excellent for nymphing and buggers.

 

[fishngolf16]

You can resolve this problem by coating the cut fly line end with Pliobond (or another flexible glue) to keep water from seeping into the fly line core.

Great idea I may have to give the old nail knot another try. Thanks