Damaged Fly Line?

[Brookie Boy]

Hello All,

I have been hearing some folks say that cutting a floating fly line to tie a new leader on damages the fly line and it will not float. Is this something that I have been doing wrong? I have always tied a nail not to the line because I like how the not goes through the guides better. I have not liked the fly lines with the built in loop because it has seemed to catch on the guides. If there is a problem, I would bite the bullet and buy a line with built in loops.

Thanks,

Bobby

 

[arfishinbear]

I use the loops myself, it is a pain to get it threw the guides but it only takes a second to pull it threw. ANothe option is to take a piece of 30lb momo about 12" long and nailknot that to your flyline and then attach your leader to that so your not cutting your fly line as much.
Bear

 

[Rip Tide]

Cutting the line exposes the core (it may have been exposed from the start).
Then water can wick up the core causing the tip to sink.
Fortunately you don't necessarily have to use a line with a welded loop, you just have to make sure the exposed core is sealed.
I use Goop, many people use Plyobond, and there's also a few fly fishing specific cements.
You'll want to use just enough to cover your leader knot with a football shaped coating that extends to include the line tip.

 

[fyshstykr]

If I may add something to what Bear has mentioned, If you do remove the 'Loop' and add the 'Butt Section' of 30# mono, you should seal the freshly cut end of the fly line with a tiny drop of Super Glue to keep the line from wicking water and therefor sinking.


*****On edit*****
Looks like Riptide posted the same info a fraction quicker than I. lol

 

[arfishinbear]

thanks guys, I did forget to mnetion sealing the line
Bear

 

[Brookie Boy]

Guys,

thanks so much for the insight. It is people like you that make the sport so fun to begin with!! Like people say, you learn something everyday.

Thanks,

bobby a.k.a. Brookie boy

 

[Softouch333]

If you really like your line sliding through that tip top try Dave Whitlock's (and others) zap-a-gap joint. It is the smoothest and zap-a-gap seals the core. It is a little difficult getting that needle in the end of a 4 weight or less at first but using a sewing machine needle (the smallest you can find) helps because the eye is built into the sharp end and they have a flattened butt that is easy to hold onto. I have pulled a little piece of the flourescent tube indicator over the junction and zapped it again, but I don't think I see it any better than the end of the fly line and no difference in security.

I use a 7 1/2 foot commercial line to a 3x and then tie a tippet ring on the end. I vary the tippet depending on conditions. (2 ft 3x streamers fast water, 2-3 ft 4x general trout, 1 ft 4x, 2-4 ft 5X flouro for clear and spooky--sometimes to 6x with dries, and 4-6 ft 5x for deeper nymphing...try tying that directly to 3x without a ring.)