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  1. Default tying hardy flies.

    I'm participating in an all day two-fly tourny among a few friends, i'm going to carry an isonychia parachute and a hare's ear nymph.

    I obviously don't want these flies self-destructing at 9 A.M.; how would you tie an indestructilbe parachue and/or hare's ear? Superglue? Larger thread?

    since i'm only tying two, cost per fly isn't worth much consideration.

    lf
    May the holes in your net be no larger than the fish in it. ~Irish Blessing

  2. Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    i was told to use some "Sally Hanson" nail hardener on my flies to help them last, and it's worked fairly well. Get the invisible "color" and trim the tip of the brush
    HERE is a link to the thread about it. it's kinda a hijacked thread so you'll have to read through it. you want the hijacked stuff :P

  3. Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    I've used both Sally Hanson and super-glue on the heads of flies and found both work well. Some flies have a tail, either of feather barbs or something similar. Most commercial tyers don't put any treatment on the fly until they get to the head. As the tail loosens up, it will usually cause the fly to "unravel" so to speak. For that reason, I sometimes put a drop of glue or SH at that point to prevent loosening. Especially with popping bugs, where you put the tail and hackle behind the foam or cork body, it is important to put some cement. I've gone back on purchased poppers and put a little at the tie in point. Be careful you don't goop up the feathers or hair. You can do the same on flies, just be careful. And some of the super-glues will "wick" quite a ways into the hair or feathers, so go sparingly. Good luck.

  4. Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    Gordon,

    one thing to do is to change your thread. if you can find it use uni-big-fly-thread. here's a link: http://www.uniproducts.com/english/produits.html

    if you've ever used kevlar thread you might have noticed that it does break. i've used a full spool of this and never broke the thread. on the same flies though i did break the kevlar thread. that would be my choice in thread. as far as the nail hardner go for it. i was the one that recommended it to gregorykicks and i believe fshfanatic added the brand and cutting the tip down.

    no matter what all i'm gonna do is: WISH YOU THE BEST OF LUCK.

    let us know how you do.

  5. Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    You can get "Kevlar thread" this stuff does not break.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  6. Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    Quote Originally Posted by fshfanatic
    You can get "Kevlar thread" this stuff does not break.
    i must've got a very bad spool then or i'm alot stronger than i thank. i've broke it numerous times on some deer hair flies.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    4,313

    Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    i must've got a very bad spool then or i'm alot stronger than i thank. i've broke it numerous times on some deer hair flies.
    Actually, I bet your bobbin has a very slight burr that is cutting the thread when you really crank down hard on it. Steve can get you my favorite bobbins, the Griffin Ceramic that will fix this problem.

    On constructing flies for a one fly tourney, I would suggest superglue over sally hansen's, because it takes less of it to really hold well, and if you're really gonna do it right, you will be applying the glue to the fly over 10 times. Basically, every time you tie something in, like a tail, rib, shellback, you name it, put a stripe of superglue on the thread wraps. When u go to finish the fly, do 2 or 3 whip finishes and coat all of the tie off with superglue, making sure to keep the hook eye clean.

    On thread size, especially for the parachute, I would suggest using a slightly smaller thread, more wraps than you would normally use for a given step, and then let the super glue add the strength. Super glue works really well at holding thread wraps together. Also, picking a thread with less wax on it will help, as the glue will be able to penetrate it better.
    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1276302_n.jpg

    I'd rather hunt fish than bait deer any day.

  8. Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    Cliff, I've been using the super glue you can get at Home Depot, Walmart, Lowes, et al, that comes in the little tubes. I think they're about 2 tubes for a buck or so. When I bought Zap-a-Gap, at about $4 for a little bottle, it always dried up on me before I used it all. Now I've heard people say the only super-glue that is waterproof is the Zap-a-Gap. I haven't noticed any of my flies or bugs coming loose, and I haven't tested the glue to see if it is waterproof. Nothing on the label says one way or the other. You had any experience with that in the tubes?

  9. Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    Quote Originally Posted by BigCliff
    Actually, I bet your bobbin has a very slight burr that is cutting the thread when you really crank down hard on it. Steve can get you my favorite bobbins, the Griffin Ceramic that will fix this problem.
    thought the same so i used the same bobbin for both flies.(just switched in between to the other thread) did this just to make sure it was or wasn't the bobbin.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    4,313

    Default Re: tying hardy flies.

    Gordo, I did some hunting on the internet and I can't see why/how zap-a-gap is better for our uses than other CA glues. CA stands for CyanoAcrylate, and this is one type of "super-glue" available. Just make sure to get a glue of that type and it should work just fine. The CA stuff seems to usually be in plastic containers that you squeeze rather than squashable metal tubes.
    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1276302_n.jpg

    I'd rather hunt fish than bait deer any day.

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