Dubbing Loops
- Thread starter lthrnk03
- Start date
mudbug
Well-known member
just wet your thread.
I seldom use wax and only use dubbing loops for CDC or Marabou dubbing.
I seldom use wax and only use dubbing loops for CDC or Marabou dubbing.
Excuse my ignorance....but what is CDC?
Rip Tide
Well-known member
You can use can lots of things besides dubbing wax. Anything tacky.
Lip balm would be good. I use bee's wax.
Dubbing loops are good for when you want 'fuzzy' rather than tight dubbing... big difference. For a hair's ear, you want fuzzy
To make a loop, you need a hook with weight. A paper clip bent with just a short hook to go over the thread works fine. Weight the bottom with a large splitshot.
Run a section of thread with your bobbin down where you want the dubbing to begin. Put your new tool inand run the thread back up to where you started and make a couple of wraps to hold it in place. Bring the thread forward.
Then just open the space between the loop legs and evenly and sparsely spread out the dubbing. Spin to twist the loop tight (but not too tight)
Wrap it forward. Rather than make the dubbing too thick to begin with it's better to wrap over it a second time or even a third.
When you have enough, secure the end of the loop with the bobbin thread and cut off the excess.
CDC.... the duck's a$$
Lip balm would be good. I use bee's wax.
Dubbing loops are good for when you want 'fuzzy' rather than tight dubbing... big difference. For a hair's ear, you want fuzzy
To make a loop, you need a hook with weight. A paper clip bent with just a short hook to go over the thread works fine. Weight the bottom with a large splitshot.
Run a section of thread with your bobbin down where you want the dubbing to begin. Put your new tool inand run the thread back up to where you started and make a couple of wraps to hold it in place. Bring the thread forward.
Then just open the space between the loop legs and evenly and sparsely spread out the dubbing. Spin to twist the loop tight (but not too tight)
Wrap it forward. Rather than make the dubbing too thick to begin with it's better to wrap over it a second time or even a third.
When you have enough, secure the end of the loop with the bobbin thread and cut off the excess.
CDC.... the duck's a$$
mudbug
Well-known member
fyshstykr
Well-known member
cdc feathers - Google Search
And a tutorial using CDC.
Classic Salmon and Trout Flies of Europe and the Americas
Sorry, don't mean to hijack your thread, but since you asked...
And a tutorial using CDC.
Classic Salmon and Trout Flies of Europe and the Americas
Sorry, don't mean to hijack your thread, but since you asked...
Its not hijacking since I asked.cdc feathers - Google Search
And a tutorial using CDC.
Classic Salmon and Trout Flies of Europe and the Americas
Sorry, don't mean to hijack your thread, but since you asked...
JoJer
Well-known member
I've always waxed when I dub, it's how I learned. For a long time I used the chunk of wax that came with my kit. It was OK, much like candle wax, which you could use. Now I use Wapsi premium dubbing wax. It's much stickier and works better. Since I have very dry skin, I smoosh a tiny bit on my dubbing fingers, too. It helps a lot.
silver creek
Well-known member
I never use wax other than for touch dubbing because any tacky substance makes it difficult to reposition materials in the loop or on the thread. It takes more practice but it is faster to not use wax.
You might want to pick up a spinning loop tool or make one from a sinker and a shepherd's crook.
Here are more precise instructions:
http://fishfliesandwater.com/2011/12/20/dubbingspinning-loop-intro-and-a-foxxy-worm/
You can see the shepherd's crook tool here. A wire shepherd's crook or even a thick paperclip and a teardrop sinker will make a spinning tool.
Dubbing Tools
BigCliff
Well-known member
I actually wouldn't use a dubbing loop on a hare's ear for fear it would be too bulky and thus wouldn't sink very well. I use dubbing loops alot, but only on things I want bulked up.
For a technique that's a bit easier, you could just split your thread with a bodkin and fill the gap sparsely with dubbing, then spin that. From the cousin-board- Split Thread Dubbing - Fly Fishing Forums
For a technique that's a bit easier, you could just split your thread with a bodkin and fill the gap sparsely with dubbing, then spin that. From the cousin-board- Split Thread Dubbing - Fly Fishing Forums
comeonavs
Well-known member
Just tied a few poison tungs ( 7 of them 17 to go) for my donation project. First time ever trying a dubbing loop and I like it so far. Other than the fact I dont have a dubbing loop tool
Need to get one of those. Are they fairly Vanilla or is one better than another.
Hell anything will be better than the bent paper clip I am using:icon_idea
Need to get one of those. Are they fairly Vanilla or is one better than another.
Hell anything will be better than the bent paper clip I am using:icon_idea
T
turbineblade
Guest
I was taught to first dub the thread like normal (direct dubbing), and then form the dubbing loop instead of trying to cram **** into the loop after it's formed.
That said, I don't use dubbing loops hardly at all. I'm sure there are benefits, but it's not worth the extra step to me.
That said, I don't use dubbing loops hardly at all. I'm sure there are benefits, but it's not worth the extra step to me.
Rip Tide
Well-known member
Add a sizable lead sinker to the bottom of your "tool" and you'll be much happier.
---------- Post added at 03:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:28 PM ----------
Often it's easier one way, sometimes the other.
If you want a smooth body like on a dry, then you just make a "noodle". If you want something "buggier" than the loop works much better.
.
Nope, variety of flavors. Choice is somewhat personal, but some designs may work better than others for certain purposes.
For twisting up a small amount of dubbing, such as the thorax on a nymph, a simple hook works fine. I like the Cal Bird dubbing tool, though there are other "shepherd hook" style tools that work similarly. The thin handle twists fast in your fingers, and the length of the tool helps negotiate around the bobbin while wrapping material on the shank.
One thing the shepherd hook or other single hook tool won't do is hold the loop open while you add material to it. For that purpose, check out a tool with two "spring" arms that oppose one another. To hold the material securely using this type, you pull on the loop; then release tension to reopen the loop and add more material. These come in multiple types as well. The weighted variety allows you to put a fast spin on the loop with a quick twist; this facilitates spinning up long synthetics, fur cut from hide, etc.
I won't suggest what will work best for you,...or that you will be able to do it all with one tool. Take your pick and start there. Most are relatively inexpensive.