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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Eastern Iowa
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    Default Fly tying station questions

    Building a custom flytying station. Rather than random sized holes and recesses, I would like to economize the space with proper sizes and spaces for some items I donít yet own. I would appreciate it if you have any of the following on hand and could give me a fairly close measurement.

    -Flyhead cement bottles- Square Wapsi brand. I think empty bottles are sold of the same size?
    -Clear cure goo products, glues and UV light
    -Hair stacker, larger sized used for large bucktail ties. The brand you are measuring would be helpful if it isnít 30 years old. If not, a typical size would be great.
    -Do all threaded products have the same standard 5/16" center hole my threads have?

    Iím sure I will think of a few more things by tonight, but this is most of my missing info. Sorry if it seems silly to worry about precision, but Iíve owned a lot of garage tool caddies that donít really hold many tools properly. I'll drill a few "just in case" sized holes for later.

  2. Likes craigthor, N/A, fyshstykr liked this post
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Hiawatha, IA
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    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    I'll grab some here in a few let me fnid that tape measure[COLOR="Silver"]

    So:

    Head Cement, Large Hair stacker, Water Shed Bottle - 1.25"
    Zap A Gap bottles, super glue - 1"
    Thread - Pearsalls Silk is a tiny bit smaller but not by much.

    Bobbin holes suspended - 3/4"
    Scissor Holes - 3/8"
    Whip Finishers and most tools 1/4"

    My Hair stacker is the Large one from JMAC

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  5. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Eastern Iowa
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    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    This is a work in progress so to speak. Nothing is screwed down. Ignore the formica as the oak station is sitting on my router station. I did think of building one on formica though as I have scraps sitting around. The riser post you see was an idea to hang a rotisserie off of. Think I will skip that for another deck above the thread rack. A rotisserie could be a separate item. Your suggestions are welcomed. I have a much larger 16x48 oak hall table with drawers oak table I may install his on eventually, but I don't want to start drilling holes in it just yet. My first day in the woodshop in 3 years so I am going slow.

    A few of my initial impressions. I need more holes for tools. I have room for 30 thread spools now and that is probably enough for my normal use. Need a spot for glues, immediate use beads, hooks etc. Went conservative on the hole sizes as I can't make them smaller later.




  6. #4
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    Oct 2013
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    Hiawatha, IA
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    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    Looks like time well spent, you may want to put in the spinner for holding your flashes if you will be tying big flies. Digging it out can be a pain if you need lots of it.

  7. #5
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    Eastern Iowa
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    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    Quote Originally Posted by craigthor View Post
    Looks like time well spent, you may want to put in the spinner for holding your flashes if you will be tying big flies. Digging it out can be a pain if you need lots of it.
    Agreed, but not so sure I need it hangin' right in my immediate tying area getting tanged up with stuff. The final table is 48" wide.

  8. #6
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    Oct 2013
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    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    The only thing I would add is a shelf with bottles to hold your beads, lead eyes, etc. Clear and that way you can see them but not knock them over. As for your glues and cements I would make the area recessed at least 1/2-3/4" so when you bump the table they don't just spill all over. White bottom of sorts will make it easier to see materials and a slot to install a profile plate for pictures would round it out.

  9. #7
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    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    Thanks Craig, I want input and not just a bunch of likes for trying real hard lol. I think it needs to be spread out at least a few more inches (width) for functionality. But I can see why some would want it more compact for portability too. I am thinking I will add an upper tier in back, and make the thread rack capable of sliding forward for access.

    Most of the commercially available stations look too compact to me but I haven't used one. I understand why. Hardwood is very heavy, and shipping expense is getting stupider by the day.

  10. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    They definitely make them compact for shipping reasons, also I think most are setup to use a C Clamp vise which would free up a few more inches. Stretch it out to 36" and see how it feels, I have a feeling unless your chair can sit in the middle of the desk one side may always be awkward to get to.

  11. #9

    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    Looks great!
    It looks a lot like my station.


    I got it 20 years ago but it is still going strong. I have added a few thread posts and hooks for tools.
    I love tying on it. Hope you can use some ideas off of it.

    Geek

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  13. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    A Scot in Sherman Connecticut
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    749

    Default Re: Fly tying station questions

    Both of those tying rigs look great. Much better to build your own rather than take what's on offer commercially.
    Well done guys, you have inspired me to go plan and build my own.
    Eddie
    "We look to Scotland for all our ideas of civilisation."
    Voltaire

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