Ice Dub

[spm]

Is there a trick to dubbing with ice dub? I have tried wetting my fingers and waxing the thread, and spinning it as carefullly as I can, but it still slides around the thread and wants to come off when I wrap it. I'm using 70 Ultra Thread and size 16-18 curved shank hook. I'm sure there is some simple trick that I am missing, but it is beyond me.


Thanks,
steve

 

[flytire]

you could use the split thread dubbing method

i just use less dubbing and twist it on a tight as possible. then i'll twist the dubbing after 1-2 wraps forward. repeat

try a little wax on your fingers insted of the thread

 

[s fontinalis]

The key to secure dubbing is a lock - i.e. get it dubbed on at the top near the start point and then take a couple wraps of thread , which locks some fibers down. then the 'dubbing action' with subsequent thread wraps will allow you to make the dubbing noodle thinner or thicker as you need.

Any video by davie mcphail which has a dubbed body fly will demonstrate this
YouTube

 

[dillon]

I blend it with another dubbing. For example, when tying a Rickard's Stillwater streamer pattern blend about 40 percent ice dubbing with 60 Jay Fairs Seal Sub dubbing.

 

[bigjim5589]

As Eunan & Norm has said, if you trap, or lock enough strands of the dubbing fibers between the hook shank & your thread, that becomes your anchor point & allows the dubbing to be twisted tightly. Otherwise, it will tend to spin around the thread. Usually two wraps of thread is all you need, but some dubbing is easier than others to get started.

I too usually mix ice dub with something else, often rabbit or other natural fur, and that seems to help.

 

[silver creek]

The key to secure dubbing is a lock - i.e. get it dubbed on at the top near the start point and then take a couple wraps of thread , which locks some fibers down. then the 'dubbing action' with subsequent thread wraps will allow you to make the dubbing noodle thinner or thicker as you need.

This is essentially the same technique I use for dry flies, and it works for ice dub as well. I explained it in a letter to Fly Tyer Magazine back in 2002 and I described it in a post last year:

https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/...5-new-fly-tying-tips-thread-3.html#post881325

 

[silver creek]

The key to secure dubbing is a lock - i.e. get it dubbed on at the top near the start point and then take a couple wraps of thread , which locks some fibers down. then the 'dubbing action' with subsequent thread wraps will allow you to make the dubbing noodle thinner or thicker as you need.

This is essentially the same technique I use for dry flies, and it works for ice dub as well. I explained it in a letter to Fly Tyer Magazine back in 2002 and I described it in a post last year. Once you get the dubbing noodle locked down, how much you twist or loosen the dubbing determines how tight a body you get. By starting tight at the back and looser at the front, you can taper the body since a looser dubbing noodle will be wider.

https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/...5-new-fly-tying-tips-thread-3.html#post881325

 

[spm]

Thank you for all the responses. I tried them all. For this pattern, the split-thread technique worked best. I like the lock method and will remember it going forward.

Thanks again.
steve

 

[Ard]

Hi Steve,

I use a lot of ice dub making my salmon flies. I don't know what size fly you're making but I don't split thread. I just throw a loop around the shank then hit it with Wonder Wax. I then spread the loop and carefully place the materials inside. Once the loop has the material trapped between strands I place a dubbing loop hook at the bottom and give it a good spin.

I use one of the weighted loop spinning tools and when I'm done I have a mini dubbing brush to dress the fly with.

The tool is visible in this picture if you look at about center right you'll see what looks like a big nut. It's out of focus but those are I'd guess available in most fly shops. I make loops that turn out very tough flies using that weight with the hook to spin the loops.



You'll have to do the enlarge thing because I don't have the image on my website.

 

[spm]

Hey Ard,
I'm tying on a size 16 to 18 curved shank hook, so I only want a minimal amount of dubbing. I'll try doing a loop in the morning, when I get back to it. This pattern is totally ice dubbing, so mixing in something else won't work.

Thanks,
steve

 

[ivory arrow]

Ice dub is one of my favorite materials, but it is difficult to dub in small sizes.

I would say the secret is using about 3-5 strands of dubbing at a time. The strands are quite long compared to hair dubbing. Once you twist up the dubbing you can slide it along the thread, including to thin it out, or bulk it up. The same amount of material once it is on the the thread it can be adjusted slightly in length by varying the pressure of your fingers when you dub it.

Once the dubbing is as tight as you prefer (this part is important) Keep tension with your fingers, holding the dubbing in place, and then wrap a few wraps at a time.

The thread tension holding the dubbing to the hook shank on one end, and tension from your fingers on the other end will keep the consistency of the dubbing while you wrap it.

Counter wrapping a material over it afterwards will help bind your preferred consistency to the hook, making it more durable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[midge1]

I used to use ice dubbing a lot but had to quit as it made my fingers cold.

 

[spm]

Okay, I think I have it figured out. The split thread helped. I couldn't get the lock-in to work. My fingers seemed to be getting in the way. Also couldn't get the loop to work, but then I never could work a loop. Then, I realized in using a new (for me) dubbing material, I fell into a rookie mistake and Ivory Arrow's response brought it to light. I was trying to spin too much material onto the thread at once. Once I figured that out, everything fell into place.

I can't thank you all enough. My frustration was getting the better of me.
steve

 

[midge1]

I was told something by a very experienced fly tier many years ago regarding dubbing: "take out a much dubbing as you think you will need, now use about half of that amount". I've followed that advice since I started tying, a little dubbing goes a long way.

 

[pnc]

Didn't look through replys. Food on stove. Is this because you want to do the dubbing ? Is not such available on a string or wire ?

Hungry....... pc

 

[brownbass]

Ice dub is one of my favorite materials, but it is difficult to dub in small sizes.

I would say the secret is using about 3-5 strands of dubbing at a time. The strands are quite long compared to hair dubbing. Once you twist up the dubbing you can slide it along the thread, including to thin it out, or bulk it up. The same amount of material once it is on the the thread it can be adjusted slightly in length by varying the pressure of your fingers when you dub it.

Once the dubbing is as tight as you prefer (this part is important) Keep tension with your fingers, holding the dubbing in place, and then wrap a few wraps at a time.

The thread tension holding the dubbing to the hook shank on one end, and tension from your fingers on the other end will keep the consistency of the dubbing while you wrap it.

Counter wrapping a material over it afterwards will help bind your preferred consistency to the hook, making it more durable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with Ivory. Use the smallest amounts of ice dubbing at a time works best. I tie mostley small, size 18 to 22 flys and it takes just a few strands to dub flys that size. Going to larger flys the loop or split thread may make more sense.

Bill