UV Resin Turns Cloudy

cody coyote

Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
I use Loon UV resin, both the thick and thin versions and I cure using a Loon UV light. I've noticed that after a month or so the UV finish turns cloudy or milky colored. How do I get the UV resin to remain clear like it is when first applied and hardened?

The batteries are fresh and since the light and resin are the same brand that shouldn't be an issue. I've seen other tiers flies that have nice clear UV resin heads even years after they're tied. What am I doing wrong?
 

don_p

Well-known member
Messages
353
Reaction score
10
Location
West Hurley, New York
I've had the same thing happen during the summer months when the humidity was super high. Same resin, different light. Happened immediately upon curing though no lag time. Once the air got a bit more dry or if I turned on the AC, it stopped.
 

mcnerney

Administrator
Messages
20,615
Reaction score
319
Location
Pinedale, WY
My suggestion would be to contact silver creek here on the forum and by some of his UV resin (assuming he still is selling). I use his UV resin and have no complaints.
SH's works fine, but I don't like the wait time for it to dry.
 

pnc

Well-known member
Messages
1,897
Reaction score
348
Location
Hudson, Florida
No expert on uv resins. I believe clouding when curing or just after is from to much light or from to long exposure to light. Several mfgs recommend on / off uv light applications to prevent clouding in anything other than thin applications. Off period gives resin time to cure without becoming stressed.

............ pc
 

ia_trouter

Senior Member
Messages
8,453
Reaction score
97
Location
Eastern Iowa, Southern Driftless
I use Loon UV resin, both the thick and thin versions and I cure using a Loon UV light. I've noticed that after a month or so the UV finish turns cloudy or milky colored. How do I get the UV resin to remain clear like it is when first applied and hardened?

The batteries are fresh and since the light and resin are the same brand that shouldn't be an issue. I've seen other tiers flies that have nice clear UV resin heads even years after they're tied. What am I doing wrong?
Does it dry extremely quickly when you hit it with the light? Resin definitely has a shelf life but if it fully hardens that probably isn't the issue. I use Silvercreeks, and have some old Loon thin left.
 

pnc

Well-known member
Messages
1,897
Reaction score
348
Location
Hudson, Florida
Have Loon & Solarez resins. Use Solarez light, 385 nm. Not sure how various powered lights affect resins. Solarez describes "overcooking" on tube light comes in. Results being yellowing or smoke. Recommended is "pulse" curing. One second on , 15 seconds off. Repeat a couple of times.
This yellowing happening over a time period of time. In this case a month is something I've never seen.

......... pc
 

cody coyote

Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
pnc - That "overcooking" idea is most interesting. I know I tend to leave the light on for 15-20 seconds which is probably way more than I need. In part I started doing that because the resin still felt sticky when I was done. I now understand that that is what's called "oxygen inhibition" and a normal thing. I'll try shorter doses of UV light. Of course, wouldn't exposure to the sun also cause the "overcooking"? The UV resins we use in fly tying are essentially the same as the UV resins used to repair windshield chips. Those remain clear for the life of the windshield and they get constant UV exposure.

What is most interesting to me is that I assumed mine was a common problem but that doesn't seem to be the case based on the responses to this post. I doubt that it's the product, which would point toward operator error of some kind.
 

mcnerney

Administrator
Messages
20,615
Reaction score
319
Location
Pinedale, WY
Cody
When I first started using UV resin it was with the Clear Cure Goo product, and it would never cure to the point of not being tacky, which would then require using Sally Hansens.
Since then I discovered the UV resin that Silver Creek was selling that cures tack free. He also was selling a torch that would cure the resin in 2-3 seconds so I also bought one of those, sure does make curing flies much quicker.
 

corn fed fins

Well-known member
Messages
2,161
Reaction score
1,081
Location
Montrose, CO.
My suggestion would be to contact silver creek here on the forum and by some of his UV resin (assuming he still is selling). I use his UV resin and have no complaints.
SH's works fine, but I don't like the wait time for it to dry.
I'm just about ready to pull the trigger and place the order. Nothing but great reviews! Ditto on the SH.
 
Last edited:

nickj

Well-known member
Messages
838
Reaction score
21
Location
Mid-coast Maine
I’ve given up trying to figure the reason, I just apply a coat of Hard as Nails after I’ve cured the resin. Problem solved.
 

cody coyote

Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Since I'm new to the forum I'm a little confused. Is the Solarez product the stuff that Silver Creek is selling?
 

mcnerney

Administrator
Messages
20,615
Reaction score
319
Location
Pinedale, WY
Since I'm new to the forum I'm a little confused. Is the Solarez product the stuff that Silver Creek is selling?
No, that is another new product being sold to the fly fishing market.
When UV resins first hit the Fly Fishing market several years back, Clear Cure Goo was the only product out there, but then people realized after buying their product that it didn't cure tack free, so they the solution at the time was to apply Sally Hansens, but for me the extra step was a PITA. Then Silver Creek started offering his tack free product and I bought it and have been happy ever since. Several years have gone buy and now there are numerous UV resins on the market being sold to fly fishers. Most advertise tack free but I haven't personally tried them so I can't recommend them to you.
 

spm

Well-known member
Messages
4,214
Reaction score
1,184
Location
Mid-Missouri
I also use Silver Creek's UV resin and have had no problems with cloudiness or tackiness. I also use his torch to cure it.

steve
 

silver creek

Well-known member
Messages
11,062
Reaction score
8,064
Location
Rothschld, Wisconsin
Since several members have mentioned me, this is how I got into supplying UV resins.

First of all, I am not in the fly tying supply business. However, I will treat you like I want to be treated.

I am actually a retired physician who majored in Chemistry at Stanford. I was also disappointed in Clear Cure Goo, so I decided to do my own resin research. I understand the frustration with the tackiness, since fly tying resins should cure tack free. Coating the tacky surface with Sally Hansens is a needless step if the resin performed correctly. Unfortunately those who market these resins did not understand the chemistry of these UV cured resins. They repackaged industrial UV resins that were formulated for curing in under high energy UV lamps and not with low power UV flashlights.

The reason that other fly tying resins do not cure completely with UV flashlights is oxygen inhibition. These acrylic UV resins polymerize by free radicals that form bonds with each other.

The lack of cure or tackiness on the surface is due to oxygen that has acted as a monomer and formed a bond with the free radical. These peroxy radicals can no longer bind with each other, or with the polymer free radical. The oxygen monomer blocks the free radical bonding site. So they either delay the curing time, or the resin can no longer cure with the flashlights.



The tack is the uncured peroxy radical and you feel it at the surface that is exposed to air. If you know anything about chemistry, you know that every liquid is at at steady state with the atmosphere around it. Therefore, there is some dissolved oxygen in the liquid resin mixture. So there is also oxygen inhibition occurring under the surface and uncured resin remaining inside the resin after “curing”. This weakens the resin.

My resin contains a chemical that neutralizes the oxygen and allow a complete tack free cure through the entire resin. When I did my research into these polymers I found the problem was NOT finding an acrylic polymer formula that would resist oxygen inhibition. That was really the easy part. The problem is finding an acrylic polymer formula that is cheap enough to be used in fly tying, that has enough oxygen inhibition resistance to cure tack free with the thicknesses used in fly tying, that can be made in small amounts, and that can be completely cured with the hand held low power UV flashlights. I have two formulas that cure tack free in seconds with a flashlight.

Silvercreek Crystal Hard UV Coat is a hard UV clear coat. Silvercreek Crystal Flex UV Coat is a hard surface yet flexible UV clear coat that can be bent in half without cracking. It can be used to coat flies, and it will seal wader leaks, seams on tents, etc.

Although I initially developed these resins just for myself and friends as a hobby, a fly shop convinced me to sell it to them and then other fly tiers wanted to buy it.
 

Unknownflyman

Well-known member
Messages
4,393
Reaction score
3,116
Location
The North
I have the loon flashlight and the same issues also I want a hard epoxy like coating and the thick loon stuff just acts like a rubber covering. I never use the stuff, pretty disappointing actually. I use hard as hull head cement.
 

kevind62

Well-known member
Messages
1,637
Reaction score
320
Location
Bayou La Batre, AL
I just use Luzianne. Obviously you never watch the Burl Ives commercials. "Lipton and Tetely tell you what to do when it gets cloudy. Luzianne says nuthin' 'bout cloudy. 'Cause it doesn't get cloudy."

Wait, we're talking about something else here aren't we??? Oops. :bolt:
 

karstopo

Well-known member
Messages
3,598
Reaction score
1,978
Location
Brazoria County, SE Texas
I have the loon flashlight and the same issues also I want a hard epoxy like coating and the thick loon stuff just acts like a rubber covering. I never use the stuff, pretty disappointing actually. I use hard as hull head cement.
I’ve had this happen with Loon. Seems like it does better applied in thin layers and a blast of UV than one thicker layer then hitting it with one dose of the light.

Sometimes it cures hard and clear for me, but if I get a little thicker layer it doesn’t cure as well. I like the thin resins better for this reason, but I might have to apply it in a few steps, thin coating, UV, thin coating, UV., that sort of thing.

But I don’t like that rubberized outcome that just peels off at the first sign of trouble.
 
Top