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Thread: Hopper Patterns

  1. Default Hopper Patterns

    Hopper Patterns

    It's hopper season in Texas (and most other places now) and I just got through tying a dozen hoppers for a swap. I used one (Souhegan Hopper) I'd found in the archives of FAOL.

    Just wondered if anybody has some favorite hopper patterns they might want to share. I usually use foam, as I'm not too good at spinning deer hair.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. Default Re: Hopper Patterns

    i like fshfanatics twishted foam hopper. but ones that ive fish, i like para hoppers, and a few others that are foam.
    Remember, we ALL live downstream.
    Fishing to live, living to fish

  3. Default Re: Hopper Patterns

    I like foam hoppers. The float forever. Plus, once you get the hang of tying them, they arent that tough..

    and my all black version:

    I took a nice 19.5" Brown up at "Lake X" (wink wink) right up off of the bank on thr tan hopper.. He slammed it and took off down the bank.. I love hopper season!!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    South Texas

    Default Re: Hopper Patterns

    Gotta love hopper season! I think the most accurate hopper pattern out there is Mike Lawson's Herny's Fork Hopper, but I'm too lazy to attempt to tie many of them. I'll often tie hoppers that are more like a chernobyl ant but with a Krystal Flash wing and in tan. I think that krystal flash sticking off the back really drives them nuts. I've gotten some of my hardest strikes from those. I know that hoppers don't have eight legs, but I figure the more the better.

    I am a foam fan! using heavier thread and lots of superglue makes the really stand up. No kevlar though, that stuff will cut foam without even trying.

    I'd rather hunt fish than bait deer any day.

  5. Default Re: Hopper Patterns

    Mike, those are really nice looking hoppers. Could you share with us how you do the foam twisting to get the effect you do? I've tied hoppers with a segmented extended body like that, but the body was started on a needle, tie in a couple of segments, then transfer it to the hook and tie in the rest.
    I've studied the photos some and just don't quite understand whether you twist at the beginning or the twist is done at the end. I really do like the bug and would like to tie some.

    Yeah Cliff, I know what you mean about the eight legs, etc. And, I don't know that I've ever seen a fish that survived a Chernobyl meltdown and was able to feed on the mutant ants and bugs they call the Chernobyls.

  6. Default Re: Hopper Patterns

    1: two pieces of 1/8" X 3" from sheet foam.
    2: Place the two strips ontop of each other and hold them between the thumbs & index finger.
    3: Twist by rolling the thumb & index finger on your right hand away from you while rolling the thumb & index finger on your left hand towards you.
    4: As the foam starts to twist, move your hands towards each other relaxing the the tension, the foam should start to double up on its self.
    5: Grab the tag ends of the foam and then bind down to the hook a piece of foam equal to the length of the hook shank.

  7. Default Re: Hopper Patterns

    So you're actually 'furling' the two pieces of foam, much like a furled leader.

    That's similar to the way the 'squirm worm' is made with the sili legs material.

    Thanks Mike, gonna try some tonight.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    South Texas

    Default Re: Hopper Patterns

    You can make some cool floating or suspending worms with estaz chennile using the same technique. Hmm...... floating.......... I've got some of Rainy's popper bodies. A floating rubber legged worm slider, hmm......

    Too bad Spawn is 6 months away!

    I'd rather hunt fish than bait deer any day.

  9. Default

    [IMG2="left"][/IMG2] Another great hopper pattern is the Madam X Hopper by Doug Swisher

    Materials Used in Tying the Madam X Hopper Pattern

    Hook: Teimco 200R (Curved Shank) Size 10
    Thread: Uni-Thread Yellow Size 8/0
    Wing: Natural Deer Hair
    Tail: Natural Deer Hair
    Head: Natural Deer Hair (Tied Bullet Style)
    Legs: White Round Elastic Strips
    Body: Pale Yellow Rabbit Dubbing
    Indicator: Orange Glo-Bug Yarn (Optional For Visibility)

    1. Start this fly by securing the hook into your vice and attaching the yellow Uni-thread to the hook shank.

    2. Clip a small portion of the natural colored deer hair and place it into your hair stacker. With a few light taps of the stacker the ends of the deer hair should now be aligned and ready to be tied in. Measure the deer hair so that when it is tied in it should be extending off of the end of the hook shank about the same distance and as the hook gape. Another point to remember is that when you tie in the deer hair for the tail that the hair does not spin completely around the hook. The tail should be sitting on top of the hook shank. Wrap the rest of the deer hair with thread till you reach the ΒΌ mark on the hook shank.

    3. Select a slightly larger clump of natural deer hair than used for the tail and place it in the hair stacker. Even the tips with a few taps on the table and now remove the hair and measure it for the correct distance of the wing. Ideally you want the wing tips to be the same distance as the tail extends from the body. Measure the wing on the hook shank from the hook eye all the back the distance of the tail. Once you have the right measurement tie in the wing in the opposite direction that would do for a normal fly. When tying in the deer hair wing make sure to let it spin around the hook shank completely. After the deer hair is tied down securely advance the tying thread to the back of the hook so you can begin dubbing the body.

    4. Make sure all the deer hair is wrapped down neatly to form a nice thick underbody before you start dubbing the body. If you have a sloppy underbody you could find deer hair sticking out from underneath the dubbing. With very small amounts of yellow rabbit fur, pinch dub the body of the fly. Continue dubbing the body of the fly as far forward as you can, trying to get the dubbing as tight as possible to the back of the hook eye. Once finished dubbing the body it should have a slight taper towards the front of the fly.

    5. With your thread clear from dubbing take one big turn of thread backwards towards the rear of the fly. Your thread should now be approximately one eighth to one quarter of an inch from the back of the hook eye. With your hands or a medium sized bullet head maker pull the deer hair that is extending over the hook eye back over the body of the fly. It will take a little jockeying around with the hair to get it to form a nice round bullet head. When you are satisfied with the shape and the size of the bullet head take two wraps of thread behind the bullethead maker to tie the head down.

    6. Cut two strips of small white round elastic about two inches long. Tie each strip onto the sides of the body of the fly flaring the elastic strips out into an X shape.

    7. Lastly cut a small bunch of orange glo bug yarn and tie it onto the top of the fly. After the yarn is tied down, whip finish and cement the thread in-front of the tie in point for the yarn. With your Scissors Clip the yarn short and tease it with your bodkin till it has a nice full round shape. Tying in the bright colored indicator is a good idea for this fly type of fly pattern. When fishing the fly you will be presenting it to undercut banks and overgrown river edges so any extra advantages to seeing a take from a fish are always welcome.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. Default Re: Hopper Patterns

    Thinking of trying to tie my first hopper. Thinking about taking and using a fine chenille in brown at the rear. Then building up with heavy black and covering with the brown chenille. Not sure what I want to do for the legs. Was thinking about using either brown chenille or peacock hurl wrapped around a thin copper wire under-layed with the chenille. Any suggestions on this would be appreciated.

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