Does this streamer exist?

madison320

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Minnow imitation. Light. Doesn't spin when retrieved. Falls slowly and horizontally (not nose first).

Sorry, I forgot to add "rides hook point up".
 
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kentuckysteve

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Keel fly.The hook will put the weight in the belly and the materials used for the body can create as much suspension you need for the sink rate.
 

Rip Tide

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"Flatwings" are great for dead drifting.
Basically they're a deceiver tied with the tail (wing) horizontal rather than vertical, and because of that horizontal tail they swim in a most realistic "side to side" motion, even with a very slow retrieve or even no retrieve at all.

Deceiver/Flatwing Comparison on Vimeo
 

karstopo

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I do these out of Steve Farrar Blend. It holds up well to toothy fish. I make a dubbing loop and the a very small amount of the fiber and twist into a brush. Dub forward pushing fibers towards tail. Add a contrasting layer for the back if you want. Glue on eyes. Swims like you describe. Almost neutrally buoyant, slow horizontal sinking. Not a fly that gets trimmed like an EP baitfish. The best ones I make are translucent, but it’s a little tough to work with Steve Farrar blend this way.


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philly

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This is a generic minnow pattern that I tie up. Depending on what I'm trying to imitate the shape will vary but it doesn't twist on retrieve, it sinks slowly and usually on even keel. I tie them from 1 to 3 inches long. This one is about 1 1/2" long tied on a size 10 B10S stinger hook with Senyo Laser Dub.

P4140187.jpg
 

madison320

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****, I forgot one of the most important features. It needs to ride hook point up. I think most of those above minnows ride hook point down, don't they?
 

madison320

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Keel fly.The hook will put the weight in the belly and the materials used for the body can create as much suspension you need for the sink rate.
That sounds promising. Does it ride hook point up? Do you have a link to a picture? I tried wrapping lead around a 60 degree jig hook but it didn't seem to work that well. It still spun and it was a pain to work with, it was hard to tie stuff over lead wrap.

So far the best thing I've made is a small tungsten beadhead on a #10 jig hook (I use hen cape feathers to create a minnow shape). It fulfills all the requirements except that it falls nose first. I'm not sure that matters however. I don't know what a real dying baitfish looks like, I just assumed it fell horizontally. I ordered some small brass and also glass beadheads. That will slow the sink rate down. My next attempt will be a glass beadhead on the jighook with just a little wire wrapped next to the bend in the hook.
 

dean_mt

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The only way to get the hook to ride inverted, or with the hook point up, is to weight the top of the hook. A bead weights the end of the hook evenly. You need to tie on dumbbell or bead chain eyes onto the top of the hook. This will flip the hook point up as the weight rolls over, but it will still drop nose first. Look at a clouser minnow.

To make the fly ride horizontally you'd have to weight the length of the top of the shank. Try using lead wire the same diameter as the hook and glue it to the top with CA or UV glue and then tie it down.
 

corn fed fins

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It's hard to get a fly to ride hook point up without weighting the top of the hook like like Dean_mt stated. It's a physics thing.lol

Placing a weight ontop can flip the hook keel but now it will sink nose first. Pretty natural as most fish dive nose first ;). Using a wire under body, wrapping the wire with lead, then pulling minnow body braid over the lead wrapped wire will place the weight rearward. You will have to experiment as the bigger the hook, the more weight needed and the braided rope only comes so big. I've never weighted that wire but the thought has crossed my mind in the past.

It would look like this Davy Wotton fly with hook up and overly complex for my taste.lol




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kentuckysteve

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Here is an example of a keel fly.The hook will act as a keel and the point will be up.Manufacturers used to sell keel hooks in the past just for these type flies.You can use a bass worm hook or an EWG bass worm hook for the same purpose.Adding buoyant materials to the body will slow the sink rate.
keel fly.jpg
 

MickT

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Something tied on a bendback style hook should do the trick


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flytie09

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Some of the Intruders that Greg Senyo has out there fit the bill......

View attachment 10791

the beauty of an intruder you can rig the hook point up or down...your preference.

What are you targeting? Saltwater or Fresh? Trout or Bass? River fishing or lakes? This might narrow the suggestions.

ft09
 

madison320

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Some of the Intruders that Greg Senyo has out there fit the bill......

View attachment 10791

the beauty of an intruder you can rig the hook point up or down...your preference.

What are you targeting? Saltwater or Fresh? Trout or Bass? River fishing or lakes? This might narrow the suggestions.

ft09
I'm targeting small creek bass. I've been using #10 hooks. These are small flies, I'm using a 3wt. So far I really like the bend back hook idea that MickT suggested. And if it doesn't sink fast enough I can add lead wraps without affecting the ease of tying, since the lead wraps are in an "unused" area, in other words I won't have to tie anything on top of the lead wraps.


YouTube
 

madison320

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Placing a weight ontop can flip the hook keel but now it will sink nose first. Pretty natural as most fish dive nose first ;).
Yeah, I have a feeling my "horizontal fall" requirement may not make much difference. Slow fall with hook point up is probably most important.
 

MickT

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If you are targeting creek bass, I’d consider upsizing unless you are just stuck on using the 3 weight. Creek bass are 90% of what I do and the smallest I ever fish is a size 8 stimi or madame x. Even small bass like a big meal and your #10 streamer hook may not have enough mass to flip the fly and ride bendback. For subsurface, I’d look for a finished length of at least 2” most of the time. A bigger fly also gives you a better chance to be noticed by a quality fish that you may not even realize is there.


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