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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Default Wing Casing Help.

    Just wondering if anybody had a tip for tying off the wing casing in a beaded head nymph so that there isn't a bunch of extra material showing between the bead and the final thread wraps. I don't know if I am making sense, but when I tie off the wing casing at the very end of say a gold ribbed hare's ear, I go to trim off the extra material and can never get it all. There is always a little material just behind the bead that just looks bad to me. I don't think it really affects the effectiveness of the fly, but I would like to get better at this. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    4,019

    Default Re: Wing Casing Help.

    GJ-

    I know EGGZACKLY what you’re talking about, and yeah it probably makes absolutely no difference as far as the fish are concerned. But some ideas to try:

    1. don’t use a wingcase- on a lot of BH like GRHE, especially small ones, I’ll just dub a fat thorax and pick it out. It can get crowded, and I like to have the abdomen ½ the hook shank, with the rest thorax+ bead. Sometimes it looks all out of proportion with an abdomen the same length as a thorax and then the bead, at least to my eyes.
    2. Thinner wingcase material like flashabou for a “flashback” version. When you fold over the flash for the wingcase, take one wrap and fold it back reversing direction. Take a couple more wraps and trim, and a few more if you need to, to cover the tag. This “u turn” works on other stuff too depending on what you’re using, you might want to give it a try.
    3. Maybe a thinner thread, 8/0 instead of 6/0 will let you make tight wraps without adding too much bulk?
    4. When you dub the thorax taper it down a little to the bead to leave room for thread wraps and to tuck trimmed material into the crevice instead of dubbing fat to the bead. Take the first wrap to bind down material a bit back from the bead, trim and make the thread wraps over the trimmed portion to scrunch it down. A u-turn here for the wingcase after the first binding wrap can help here too before you trim.

    Hope some of this makes sense...

    It'll be interesting to see what other folks do.

    peregrines

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Default Re: Wing Casing Help.

    I know what you mean about the Uturn - a lot easier. I tie a lot of flies, and catch a lot of fish on them, but I do not generally turn out flies that are works of art. Utilitarian and workmanlike might best describe them. I agree with you. I think that my thread is too thick and switching to 8/0 might help a lot. Pretty cheap fix. Also, I think I sometimes get a little overzealous with the wraps when I tie on certain materials. I guess I am paranoid about the darn fly coming apart or something.

    Thanks for all the tips - a flashback hares ear? I have to try it.

    Does anybody else have any general tips for turning out better nymphs? Tails, wing casing, etc?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Wing Casing Help.

    Here are a couple of things to try. For flies with dubbed Thorax's I like to leave some extra room between the bead and the wingcase, don't tie everything up tight to the bead. Once you have tied down and trimmed off your wingcase material use another patch of dubbing and cover it all up right tight to the bead. This will help hide your thread wraps and make a cleaner looking fly.

    Another way that I tie off wingcases, especially slick materials such as Flash or mylar is to tie it off tight to the bead and then fold the wing case material back over itself and tie it off again. Build your head and whip finish the fly before you trim off the wingcase. You will eventually trim the wingcase off behind your thread wraps and the exposed ends of the wingcase will blend back into itself rather than stand out against the back drop of the bead. This also makes your wingcases much more durable since you locked the material into place.

    Good luck and I hope my instructions make some sense.

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