Single-Hand Spey - Fly Lines (Rio Single-Handed Spey vs Commando/Scout)

[fenix84]

So I'm about to jump into this single hand spey casting thing.

I want to start with my 9' 6wt and wasn't sure what would be the best setup for me.

Should i get an OPST Commando/Airflo Scout setup with the running line + Shooting head
Skagit Scout | Airflo USA
Commando Heads

OR

go with the Rio Single Handed Spey
https://www.rioproducts.com/products/floating/intouch-single-handed-spey

I would like to be able to fish triple nymph rigs with an indicator as well as be able to fish streamers with different sinking tips.

Any ideas?

 

[runningfish]

A lot of guys preferred the Commando and I was one of them until I tried the Scout. I've also tried the Rio Single Handed Spey, which despite the accolades it received I thought it was just so so. I am now using the Airflo Switch Float 26ft-27ft and switch streamer 16ft-17ft for my single and double hand rods. They are basically head systems with integrated running line that cast overhead cast and double hand cast IMO better than the Rio. More like the Wulff Ambush but the running line is thicker and easier to mend. The Float type in particular casts like scandi heads.

What I like about the Scouts are they don't feel very clunky and the extra 2-3ft helps when my concentration drops by the end of the day. I am not going to talk about line designs since I have no clue about it. But one thing for sure, I like the Scout better.

I was fishing the Bow last week and the water was high, I used 330 Switch Streamer with light i-MOW, a weightless intruder and fished the seams about 50-60ft away and the line handled it no problemo. I tried to nymph with a bobber and it worked as well (minus the fish). I think I'd recommend you the airflo switch float if you are looking to have an integrated single hand spey for nymphing and swinging streamer with sinking polyleader. You can use Scout for a dedicated swinging line since it's cast mono, poly, Mow and T materials very well. By the way, it swings just below the surface with untreated Cutthroat furled 10' spey Leader (our sponsor).
The commando heads can also do all that, it's just one's personal preferences.

 

[fenix84]

Nice to see another local around and thanks for replying.

So with the 'Airflo Switch Float' and 'Rio Single-Handed Spey' are they much different than the Rio Gold for overhead casting? and overhead casting with polyleaders? The reason i ask is because until I can actually learn to spey cast i see myself doing a lot of traditional casting until i get comfortable.

Can you recommend a 'Airflo Switch Float' line for my single handed 9' 6wt?

Also why does it come with a 'Airflo 10' Floating PolyLeader'? Do i need the floating polyleader when nymphing or fishing dries?

 

[runningfish]

I am dividing my time between AB and CA at this point. But my arms are getting tired of flying and I'll probably build nest soon.

About the Airflo and the Rio, I don't do a lot of false casting with them. They are more like short shooting heads which I think still too cumbersome to false cast with. Although they've come with an integrated thicker running line still the taper drops significantly. So, I do more like a one or two false casts and cast away. They do cast overhead very well, like DT lines on steroid.

If I were going to do mostly single hand overhead casting, I'd pick a single hand line like the Rio Gold or in my case an Airflo Bandit and look for a used Airflo or Rio single spey line.

Regarding the right weight/grain for your 6wt, I'll let Peter Charles to help you with his video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMX0a3_P-q0

Why they come with the 10' floating polyleaders? I don't know either, maybe because they cost $99.99 each and a free polyleader will sweeten it up a bit.

By the way, there 2 guys in different forum who are selling used 210 float.

 

[fenix84]

Thanks again for the info! Much appreciated, i now know what needs to be done.

 

[ia_trouter]

I am hardly an expert, but knowing approximate what head length you personally prefer can be very important to your enjoyment. I hate some lines others love, and vice versa. Unfortunately you have to try something to determine that. There is a reason why spey casters change lines so often. The high number of almost new lines for sale on other forums is proof of that IMO.

 

[runningfish]

Yep, I changed lines all the time and I bought them used to afford them.

 

[ia_trouter]

Yep, I changed lines all the time and I bought them used to afford them.

Every used line I ever bought was like new. It can take a couple of attempts and it is worth the trouble to get a combo right.

 

[fenix84]

So i finally got my spey casting line but had a question.

How much of the line is outside the rod tip when i perform a cast?

 

[lake flyer]

about a foot of the orange section should be outside the rod tip.

 

[fenix84]

Thanks lake flyer

So i was practicing how to spey today and it was great, of course i wasn't great but I saw glimpses of what this line can do, its very versatile. Now i want it for my 5wt but according to their site 210 grains is the lowest they make. Is there something similar out there that's around 185 grains aside from the Rio single hand spey?

Edit: Found the answer, for those searching the best options for a single handed 5 wt line with an integrated running line system are.

Wulff Ambush - AMB 5F - 18′ - 215 gr.
or
Rio Single Hand Spey - WF5F - 33' - 200 gr.
or
Scientific Angler Spey Lite Integrated SCANDI - 20' - 180 gr.
or
Scientific Angler Spey Lite Integrated SCANDI - 21' - 210 gr.

I'll need to ponder this...

Thanks yall.

 

[cb]

about a foot of the orange section should be outside the rod tip.

Personally, I approach this from a different angle - that is how much line should I have out each and every time to be able to understand the cast and be "consistent". One of the most difficult thing in Spey casting is producing a good loop time after time. It is especially difficult for newcomers to be consistent if they change the length of line outside the rod tip - due to different weights of head length or length of head.

For a beginner I recommend you cast 5 x rod length from reel to fly. This normally means 3 x rod length = head. If you prefer longer heads or shorter heads than "3x rod" then that is fine - do your own chart - but then stick to it until you master the art of consistent loop and anchor formation.

Here is a quick reference table: (all in feet)

ROD | Reel to Fly | HEAD
15ft| 75.00ft| 45.00ft
14.5| 72.50| 43.50
14| 70.00| 42.00
13.5| 67.50| 40.50
13| 65.00| 39.00
12.5| 62.50| 37.50
12| 60.00| 36.00
11.5| 57.50| 34.50
11| 55.00| 33.00
10.5| 52.50| 31.50
10| 50.00| 30.00
9.5| 47.50| 28.50
9| 45.00| 27.00
8.5| 42.50| 25.50
8| 40.00| 24.00

Of course things get interesting if you are deep wading - you are effectively shortening your rod - so don't forget to shorten the head (or lift your hands). Conversely, if you are standing on a platform or high river bank you have lengthened the rod - so adjust accordingly - or lower your hands!

If you follow this reasoning - the swing pattern does not change and it will help you repeat consistently, smooth anchor placements in the same spot time after time.

Of course once you have "got-it" then changing head length, line weight etc is fine as you will have learned to adapt by then.

Have a great time experimenting!