Assuming I have absolutely 0 tools for anything related to building rods- what is the cost?

original cormorant

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- small section of thin braided line; this is to fold in half and use for pulling tag end of thread through when wrapping thead. You can use a piece of thread, but braid will not break while pulling through.
I use mono for pulling through the thread on whippings on guides or on line. Mono seems perfect for the job, why would you use floppy braid, have I missed something?
 

unsandedsuperfine

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I use mono for pulling through the thread on whippings on guides or on line. Mono seems perfect for the job, why would you use floppy braid, have I missed something?
Hi, Original Cormorant:

Just my minor preference here, and the topic of pulling the line through on the whipping is the least important thing I posted about, but here are my thoughts:

Mono would be fine, as you have attested. But to answer your question: Mono’s thicker, stretches, and less supple, which could to disturbing/moving threads slightly more. Braid will also never break.

Again, the mono is suitable, I’m just answering your question. In other words, if a builder told me they use mono, I would NOT be thinking to myself, “They need to be using braid.” Again, it’s just a minor preference for me.

When you refer to it as floppy, are you inferring it’s difficult to handle? If a new builder theoretically lacks the fine motor skills to handle the suppleness of braid when finishing a wrap, they would not possess the fine motor skills to apply the finish.
 
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Lewis Chessman

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A few photos of my homemade set up in the hope it helps. Almost all made from scraps (don't say "It looks like it"! ;) ).

Sprung thread holder on a track & sleigh. Can be positioned anywhere.
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The upper rest, again on a track for variable positioning. Height adjustable to keep the blank level when epoxying. Elasticated hair band for tension.
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The fore rest. Fixed. Also, the thread return hook is made from electrical cable trunking (white, right). It came with sticky tape underneath which has held just fine. Can be easily slid to any position required.
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Several tools for the job incl. hot-melt glue for the tip (on a whisky bottle cork cap). The 'Dremmel' type tool was about £25/$30 and has been worth its weight in gold.
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The salvaged microwave motor/rod turner.
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The front of the turner - It's made from an aerosol can lid, 4 bolts & 8 nuts + hair bands. I'll change the plastic lid for a more solid metal one at some stage but it's served me well so far.
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I use either bits of old blank or epoxy brush handles, cut to a few inches and built up with masking tape to fit the female ferrules, as a stent to extend the rod. This allows the bands to grip and turn the section when I've epoxied a ferrule wrap or there is a guide close to the join (not shown here).

One strip of masking tape sticky side up with one at either end, sticky side down, to hold the guides in the correct order.
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You will probably require a file to file down the 'toe' of the foot of your guides. This makes 'stepping up' with the thread easier and gives a much better looking finish to the wraps.

Hope that's of some use.
Lewis.
 

MCHammer

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Proof Fly Fishing sells some nice kits. I've built two of them so far, and have also bought some components from them. Fair prices, and the owner has a great collection of tutorial videos on the website.
As others have said, it's addictive.
 

pnc

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I use flex coat for finishing. Same as when starting to build rods. I turned by hand until finish set up. Think it's 4 hrs. Don't know about other finishes.
You will want something to cut thread with. A tapered coarse file or ream to fit cork. Nothing else you have to have. Other stuff is what makes it easier for you. Instead of using a box to cradle rod. You cold hold on your lap. Your wrapping thread around a cylinder. Not rocket science.
Even decorative wraps are not hard. They too are just wrapped around the rod. You will want a cradle of some sort for this.
Find a rod you like. Have fun building. And more fishing.
 
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